Airlock stops at Fermentation Day 10

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NightCrow713

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Im brewing 2 gallon glass jugs of mead

Gallon 1 is by Craft a Brew ingredient packets

Gallon 2 i used an alternative brand yeast nutrient

Gallon 2 is bubbling just fine however
Gallon 1 Airlock stopped bubbling at fermentation Day 10 ....both gallons are at same temp.

What does this mean?
What do I do?
 
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NightCrow713

NightCrow713

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Gallon #1 (Left) Gallon #2 (Right)

Same Temp both started the fermentation Jan 11th Gallon #1 Airlock stopped bubbling at Fermentation Day 10 its supposed to ferment for 30 days as Craft a Brew guide instructs.

I dont understand why A hydrometer would do anything....thats just to measure the alcohol content....In my opinion....which im not doing just yet....is using yeast energizer to kickstart it back to action ....both jugs are still maturing in clarity from the cloudiness.
16744160146737062721179943852955.jpg
 
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NightCrow713

NightCrow713

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I dont understand how thats possible they both started the same day and suppose to ferment for 30 days as craft -a- brew instructs. And both jugs still need to mature from the cloudiness.

I was going to make melomels w these 2 jugs
 

MightyMosin

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Without know more about your ingredients it's just a guess why one finished before the other, but your hydrometer is telling you that it is pretty much done... it may go below 1.00, so you'll just need to check in a week or so to see.
 

Maylar

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Ferment time is a function of a number of things. Yeast, nutrients, and temperature being the big factors. The cloudiness is a combination of honey proteins and yeast that are still in suspension. They will continue to settle and clear over time.

This is why the hydrometer reading is so useful. If you had measured 1.040 or something, it'd be obvious that primary ferment was still in progress. It may drop a few more points into the high 0.99x but 1.000 is considered to be done.
 
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NightCrow713

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Without know more about your ingredients it's just a guess why one finished before the other, but your hydrometer is telling you that it is pretty much done... it may go below 1.00, so you'll just need to check in a week or so to see.


1st Gallon brew

I used the ingredients craft a brew provided in the kit.

2nd Gallon brew - I had to use an alternative brand of yeast nutrient because i didnt have enough the yeast nutrient packets from Craft a brew. But used the same brand of yeast.

Craft a brew instructs their Yeast nutrient Day 1 & Day 2/5 application

So for Gallon #2 The yeast nutrient alternative brand it says apply 1 tspn per Gallon
 

MightyMosin

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It may be that the first one had nutrients that performed better or possibly contained DAP, which yeast prefer. DAP is like giving it steroids instead of a proper nutrition; that is a gross simplification but could be a contribution factor.

As Maylar stated there are a variety of factors and temperature is a big one. Both meads could have been started at the same time and held in the same space but the fermentation process creates its own heat which can raise on higher than the other. At higher temperatures the yeast will work faster and generate more esters as well as increasing the potential for fusel alcohols.
 
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NightCrow713

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I plan on making melomels w these 2 jugs
I have a set date on when to add the fruit for the 2nd Fermentation which is Jan 26th but since Gallon #1 may have reached its Ferm. Completion Im not sure how to proceed.
 

MightyMosin

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You can just let it sit there while you wait for the other one to finish so you can handle the fruit additions to both at the same time. If you aren't planning any fermentation of the fruit, then you can stabilize the completed mead now while the other one completes its fermentation.

If the fruit you use will have pectin, you might want to consider using a pectic enzyme about an hour prior to adding the fruit. This will help you end up with a mead that isn't cloudy from a pectic haze.
 
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NightCrow713

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You can just let it sit there while you wait for the other one to finish so you can handle the fruit additions to both at the same time. If you aren't planning any fermentation of the fruit, then you can stabilize the completed mead now while the other one completes its fermentation.

If the fruit you use will have pectin, you might want to consider using a pectic enzyme about an hour prior to adding the fruit. This will help you end up with a mead that isn't cloudy from a pectic haze.
I was advised by Craft a Brew that Im.suppose to boil the fruit for 5 min to eliminate the wild yeasts of the fruit prior adding the fruit to the mead after the 30 day Primary fermentation

[Moved response *outside* the quoted text -Mod]
 
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Also, keep in mind, just because fermentation is done, that doesn’t mean your mead is done. There is a lot that happens after terminal gravity is reached. The reason your kit references an arbitrary number of 30 days is likely because it’s a nice round number and a safe bet that fermentation has finished. Yeast can’t read, they don’t know what the recipe instructions call for. That said, no need to rush your mead. You can pull off a one month mead with TOSNA but it will only get better with time.
 

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Don't boil the fruit, that will set pectins (making the final product potentially hazy) and change the flavor.

The others are giving you good advice. There is no rush, just wait for the other jug to catch up.

The question you need to figure out at this time is, (a) do you want the fruit to ferment in secondary, or (b) do you want to simply add fruit flavor to the mead.

If (a) is your choice, nothing to do until you are ready to add fruit, except possibly add pectin enzyme.

If (b) is your choice, then you will want to stabilize them first (and add pectin enzyme as required).

Personally, I would do one of each, and see how they turn out!
 

bushpilot

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1st Gallon brew

I used the ingredients craft a brew provided in the kit.

2nd Gallon brew - I had to use an alternative brand of yeast nutrient because i didnt have enough the yeast nutrient packets from Craft a brew. But used the same brand of yeast.

Craft a brew instructs their Yeast nutrient Day 1 & Day 2/5 application

So for Gallon #2 The yeast nutrient alternative brand it says apply 1 tspn per Gallon
You made them differently, that is probably why they are behaving differently.

It would be a good idea to learn a little more about the "craft" of mead making before your next batch, rather than blindly following a recipe.

That said, it is likely these will turn out great!
 
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NightCrow713

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Just to
You made them differently, that is probably why they are behaving differently.

It would be a good idea to learn a little more about the "craft" of mead making before your next batch, rather than blindly following a recipe.

That said, it is likely these will turn out great!


Just to Show....this is what Craft-a-Brew advised me about the fruit adding.
 

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NightCrow713

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Just to Show....this is what Craft-a-Brew advised me about the fruit adding.


If I boil the fruit it will kill the wild yeasts....but if I do it will make pectins.

But to be honest....i just prefer adding the fruit as is ...w out the boiling....just hope that the wild yeasts of the fruit doesnt spoil the mead in any way
 

bushpilot

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The supposed wild yeast are unlikely to survive in the already fermented mead. If you want to be absolutely sure, stabilize the mead before adding the fruit. I wouldn't lose sleep either way.

Don't boil, don't puree! But do freeze it first, if it hasn't been frozen, to break down the cell walls. That is what they are trying to accomplish by pureeing.

But pureeing will cause other problems, such as plugging up your syphon and possibly cause far more tannin in the final result than you planned.

I guess it depends a lot on the fruit you have planned, which is?
 
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NightCrow713

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The supposed wild yeast are unlikely to survive in the already fermented mead. If you want to be absolutely sure, stabilize the mead before adding the fruit. I wouldn't lose sleep either way.

Don't boil, don't puree! But do freeze it first, if it hasn't been frozen, to break down the cell walls. That is what they are trying to accomplish by pureeing.

But pureeing will cause other problems, such as plugging up your syphon and possibly cause far more tannin in the final result than you planned.

I guess it depends a lot on the fruit you have planned, which is?
I chose to use Frozen cherries and blackberries I only use frozen
 
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NightCrow713

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Don't boil the fruit, that will set pectins (making the final product potentially hazy) and change the flavor.

The others are giving you good advice. There is no rush, just wait for the other jug to catch up.

The question you need to figure out at this time is, (a) do you want the fruit to ferment in secondary, or (b) do you want to simply add fruit flavor to the mead.

If (a) is your choice, nothing to do until you are ready to add fruit, except possibly add pectin enzyme.

If (b) is your choice, then you will want to stabilize them first (and add pectin enzyme as required).

Personally, I would do one of each, and see how they turn out!
If i choose to ferment the fruit as 2nd Fermentation will the color and flavor both be absorbed into the brew....or would that ferment the fruit flavor out ?

On another note.....Gallon #1 has some Potassium Carbonate from Craft a Brew yeast nutrient packets... But Gallon #2 Doesn't ...it only has Yeast and yeast Nutrient (DAP)


Is Potassium Carbonate required or can it be left out ?
On another note
 

bushpilot

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At this point (after the bulk of the fermentation is done), I don't know that it makes much difference. That said, I usually let fruit ferment in secondary, rather than stabilizing before addition.

Generally speaking, 1-3 pounds per gallon is used. 1 pound will give a hint of fruit, 2 will have a stronger fruit, and 3 will be very fruity.

Others may pipe in with a different experience, which is OK as well.

Potassium carbonate is considered a good addition at the start of mead fermentation, as established by Bray Denard in his BOMM protocol. At this point, it adds no value, and is not a problem.
 
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NightCrow713

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Good to know because I plan on doing 2lb for each jug.
Craft a brew told me today something similar that the fermentation is common to slow down in the bubbling....but the yeast is still hard at work ....and Today the clarity has been improving so far in Gallon #1(Right) but Gallon#2 (Left) of course looks different
 

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MightyMosin

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I'm assuming that you are adding the fruit for the flavor and not actually looking for additional fermentation. If that is true, you will need to use Potassium Metabisulfite (K-Meta) and Potassium Sorbate (K-Sorbate) at least 24 hours before fruit additions to keep the yeast from budding and chewing through the sugar added by the fruit.

With the above assumption, you won't be worrying about wild yeast as the stabilization should prevent that from happening.

Their kit uses D-47 yeast which can give some great results, but it is best when the fermentation temperatures are kept in the low 60's as higher temperatures *can* give off fusel alcohols and some nasty esters that takes time to age out.
 
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NightCrow713

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I'm assuming that you are adding the fruit for the flavor and not actually looking for additional fermentation. If that is true, you will need to use Potassium Metabisulfite (K-Meta) and Potassium Sorbate (K-Sorbate) at least 24 hours before fruit additions to keep the yeast from budding and chewing through the sugar added by the fruit.

With the above assumption, you won't be worrying about wild yeast as the stabilization should prevent that from happening.

Their kit uses D-47 yeast which can give some great results, but it is best when the fermentation temperatures are kept in the low 60's as higher temperatures *can* give off fusel alcohols and some nasty esters that takes time to age out.


I plan to add the fruit to the brews for flavor and color of course. And as I was advised by Craft a brew they recommend to add the fruit 2wks after the primary fermentation process which prevents the fruit flavor from being fermented out. And once fruit is added to allow the melomel to be fermented 3+ wks

But they didnt mention the additives you mentioned but Im sure amazon has them
 
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NightCrow713

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The supposed wild yeast are unlikely to survive in the already fermented mead. If you want to be absolutely sure, stabilize the mead before adding the fruit. I wouldn't lose sleep either way.

Don't boil, don't puree! But do freeze it first, if it hasn't been frozen, to break down the cell walls. That is what they are trying to accomplish by pureeing.

But pureeing will cause other problems, such as plugging up your syphon and possibly cause far more tannin in the final result than you planned.

I guess it depends a lot on the fruit you have planned, which is?
Add the fruit frozen or thaw the fruit first ?
 

MightyMosin

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That D47 yeast has a relatively high alcohol tolerance of 15% and the fruits will likely restart fermentation if the mead isn't stabilized prior to the fruit additions.
 

bushpilot

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Would the pectic enzyme act as the stabilizer ?

If I add the fruit to start a 2nd fermentation....would the flavors be fermented out?
Pectic enzyme will help prevent pectic haze in the final product. It will not help stabilize.

For stabilization, use k-meta and k-sorb.

The fruit flavors will be present, even if it fermentation restarts.
 
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NightCrow713

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I have a date set to add the fruit on Jan 26th to do the 2nd fermentation but the jugs are still progressing in clarity ...Can I still add the fruit or Should I wait til the mead gets fully clear of the cloudiness?
 

MightyMosin

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I wouldn't worry about clarity until after your fruit comes out of the mead as the fruit will likely muddy it up a bit. I am assuming that you will have already racked it off of what has settled to the bottom of primary fermentation.

At least 24 hours before adding your fruit you will want to stabilize. At least an hour before fruit, you want to add your pectic enzyme at a rate of just shy of 1/4 tsp per pound of fruit; ideally you do it by weight of .62g per pound of fruit and 1.55g per gallon of juice.

Stabilization amounts are based on pH for the K-Meta and pH along with alcohol level for the K-Sorbate.
Since we don't know your pH, I'll assume an initial pH of 3.9 that probably came down to the area of 3.6 after fermentation. Your alcohol ABV should be ~15.5 based on the readings you listed earlier.

For a pH of 3.6 you would add .322g of K-Meta to stabilize per gallon. If you went to .4g or .5g per gallon you would be covered up to a pH of 3.8. When/if you bottle, you would add ~ half that amount again prior to bottling. Ideally this would all be tested for exact amounts, but few of us have spent the $ for that hardware. It will likely be my next big purchase related to making mead.

At a pH of 3.6 the Sorbic Acid produced by the K-Sorbate will be ~91% effective (at 3 it is 98%, while 4 is 85%). At 15% ABV we want 25 mg/L of Sorbic Acid, which should be .2g of K-Sorbate per gallon; Adjusting for the effect of pH (91% effective) we will be at .23g. Now comes the fudging it portion... In my experience the calculated amount isn't always enough depending on how much yeast has not settled out when racked to secondary and I will generally add another .1 or .2 per gallon depending on my clarity and how long I left it to settle prior to racking to secondary.
 
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NightCrow713

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I wouldn't worry about clarity until after your fruit comes out of the mead as the fruit will likely muddy it up a bit. I am assuming that you will have already racked it off of what has settled to the bottom of primary fermentation.

At least 24 hours before adding your fruit you will want to stabilize. At least an hour before fruit, you want to add your pectic enzyme at a rate of just shy of 1/4 tsp per pound of fruit; ideally you do it by weight of .62g per pound of fruit and 1.55g per gallon of juice.

Stabilization amounts are based on pH for the K-Meta and pH along with alcohol level for the K-Sorbate.
Since we don't know your pH, I'll assume an initial pH of 3.9 that probably came down to the area of 3.6 after fermentation. Your alcohol ABV should be ~15.5 based on the readings you listed earlier.

For a pH of 3.6 you would add .322g of K-Meta to stabilize per gallon. If you went to .4g or .5g per gallon you would be covered up to a pH of 3.8. When/if you bottle, you would add ~ half that amount again prior to bottling. Ideally this would all be tested for exact amounts, but few of us have spent the $ for that hardware. It will likely be my next big purchase related to making mead.

At a pH of 3.6 the Sorbic Acid produced by the K-Sorbate will be ~91% effective (at 3 it is 98%, while 4 is 85%). At 15% ABV we want 25 mg/L of Sorbic Acid, which should be .2g of K-Sorbate per gallon; Adjusting for the effect of pH (91% effective) we will be at .23g. Now comes the fudging it portion... In my experience the calculated amount isn't always enough depending on how much yeast has not settled out when racked to secondary and I will generally add another .1 or .2 per gallon depending on my clarity and how long I left it to settle prior to racking to secondary.

Well Im adding the fruit for the 2nd fermentation as well as of course for the flavor and color.....so The 2nd fermentation of the fruit as advised by craft a brew takes 3+ wks more and then rack the mead

But im at crossroads w this stabilizing since that would prevent the 2nd fermentation
 

MightyMosin

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If you want the fruit to ferment, then you do not use the K-Sorbate.

But never use the K-Sorbate without the K-Meta as some bacteria can feed on the Sorbic acid and give off a taste/odor of Geranium. I have never experienced it myself, but have read that it is fairly nasty.
 
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Maylar

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Well Im adding the fruit for the 2nd fermentation as well as of course for the flavor and color.....so The 2nd fermentation of the fruit as advised by craft a brew takes 3+ wks more and then rack the mead

But im at crossroads w this stabilizing since that would prevent the 2nd fermentation
If your gravity numbers are correct (1.120 start 1.000 finish) then the yeast have already reached their alcohol tolerance and there won't be any 2nd fermentation.
 

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If your gravity numbers are correct (1.120 start 1.000 finish) then the yeast have already reached their alcohol tolerance and there won't be any 2nd fermentation.
I believe the fruit will add more water than sugar, and they will ferment.
 

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