I just use Williams extracts. Since water supplies, and water additions, can vary between brands, I wouldn't rely on the water chemistry to be the same.
Here's the experimental "Red IPA Hop Sampler" recipe:
BBR Hop Sampler process: add DME; bring to boil; add hops; turn off heat; let sit for 'a while', then chill.
- 24 oz Muntons Extra Light DME; 4 oz sugar
- 3 oz Crystal 40; 5 oz Crystal 60; single crush;
- 7 g Magnum (13.8 AA)
- 35 g Amarillo (8.5 AA); purchased in Nov 19.
- 5.0 g Lallemand Verdant
- Irish Moss & Yeast Nutrient
- 1.25 gal; OG 62; FG 13; color: amber (12-15)
Adding Irish Moss and beer yeast nutrient is something that I do for all my recipes. I don't know if it is part of the BBR (Basic Brewing Radio) Hop Sampler process.I'm curious about the yeast nutrient addition. Is it just part of the BBR thing or do you find it valuable?
Interesting test. I started doing late additions for the conventional reason - less maillard reactions/darkening. I was never really impressed with the lighter color, although I didn't do a side-by-side comparison like you did. An advantage is better hop utilization. And when I add the late addition after the boil, it brings the temp down to 180F, which I like for doing a hop stand.As an aside, "partial boil with late additions" is an excellent technique for making 5 gallon batches on a stove top with smaller kettles. But it probably doesn't have the impact on color that 'conventional wisdom' suggests it does.
As an aside, "partial boil with late additions" is an excellent technique for making 5 gallon batches on a stove top with smaller kettles.
An advantage is better hop utilization. And when I add the late addition after the boil, it brings the temp down to 180F, which I like for doing a hop stand.
I started doing my late addition because it allowed me to do a 30 minute boil. The better hop utilization more than makes up for the shorter boil time. I figured my late addition got the wort to about 175, and a test on one batch showed that to be true.
Out of curiosity, I went back to the original Tinsenth utilization table.
There's a 'back of the envelope" calculation that suggests changing from a 60 minute boil to a 30 minute boil requires about 25% more hops. 211/163 = 1.3 or 30% - let's call that suggestion 'close enough'.
And it looks like adding half the DME at flameout with a 30 min boil yields the same utilization as a standard 60 min boil. Plus adding the DME/LME help with cool down. Nice!
As always, the final proof will be found in tasting the beer.
 Hop Utilization Page
... One [extract addition] after steeping any grains before turning up the heat and the remainder after flame out. [...] I "think" that adding any DME in the beginning and LME late is for the better color wise.
The Briess website has some photos of their LME at varying ages after manufacture. It's very dramatic. I don't remember where on their website it is though.A primary cause of "darker than expected" is oxidized/stale LME which can be measured / tasted pre-boil.
I was figuring 20-30 minutes.How long will the hops steep in the tea?
I wonder if 170 may still be hot enough to drive-off some aromatics.
Yeah I was thinking you could steep for a while. I'm sure there is a sweet-spot for the elevated temp to get the max out of them VS room temp. I may try this too next IPA.I was figuring 20-30 minutes.
Your question about the driving off aromatics is why I'm asking about this. A hop stand type of extraction at 170 and down is what I do now. I was thinking that dry hopping is done cold, but, if I'm making a tea, can I just steep hops in room temperature for a few days? My understanding is that at under 170 the flavor and aromatics are extracted but not driven off.
If I do it, I'll post results, but I was hoping someone would say, "Yeah, that works great!"
Maybe my question should involve whether I'm looking for flavor and aroma with a hot steep or just aroma with a cold steep. If I want both, do hot; if I want just aroma, do cold? Does this make sense? Have people tried one or both?Yeah I was thinking you could steep for a while. I'm sure there is a sweet-spot for the elevated temp to get the max out of them VS room temp. I may try this too next IPA.
process.add steeping grains at "flame-on" and remove at 160F-ish (or 20 minutes)
I currently steep my grains in a side pot and then strain into the boil kettle which has been heating. I steep for 30 minutes by heating the water to almost 170 F, turning off the heat, dumping in the grains, and letting it sit with some stirring. I can turn on the heat if its falling below 150 F. I don't know if has to be heated *, but I was given to understand it should steep at 150-160 and that higher than 170 F would lead to unwanted results.A steep from "flame on" to 160F may be one approach, the "cold steep" may be another. I'm also interested in what others are currently doing.
I'm a member of the "pasteurization is my friend" club - so the steeped wort would be added in time to ensure it's pasteurized.When were you planning to add the cold steep?
I agree with that, but my problem using that idea is that I'm already lowering the boil to about 170-175 with my late addition. I can't then also throw in a cold steep without going below pasteurization levels. I'm not sure I could do a cold steep and then dissolve my late addition in that while I'm doing my 30 min. boil. Since it takes time to dissolve the DME in the boil water, to heat the boil water to boiling, and do the boil itself, there should be time to do the cold steep and dissolve the late addition DME. If I can convince myself that I can do that, it would be easier and probably a tad shorter than my current method. I think I'll have to try it the next time I have steeping grains in the brew.I'm a member of the "pasteurization is my friend" club - so the steeped wort would be added in time to ensure it's pasteurized.
Good point. In my '2nd beer' process, I would add the cold steep wort as the water is reaching a boil, probably before adding the DME and the hops.I'm already lowering the boil to about 170-175 with my late addition. I can't then also throw in a cold steep without going below pasteurization levels.
How to Brew, 4e, p 14 (paraphrasing): add extract at end of boil after last hop addition; pasteurization "takes a couple of minutes". I did a partial mash boil batch this past weekend, adding the DME slurry starting at 10 min before the end of the boil.Boiled for 60 min then at flameout added the other half of the extract and let it sit for 30 minutes. Temps stayed above 170 most of the time. How long do yall do the pasteurization step? I thought I saw 30 minutes. I searched up how long to pasteurize at 170 and it is seconds. Maybe 30 minutes is overkill?
If FG is 1) stable over a couple of days and 2) within the estimated range for the recipe, the beer is generally ready to bottle.What do yall think about bottling it so fast? Should I leave it on the yeast for another week?
The SG will be stabilized in a day or so. Kveik is a beast. This one will likely need to bottle condition for a few weeks at least. Maybe more. My sister is coming down for my son's graduation in 10 days. I was hoping for a drinkable beer. I do have two of my Scottish Strong Ales from last year. Sister and I may just enjoy that one. We shall see.How to Brew, 4e, p 14 (paraphrasing): add extract at end of boil after last hop addition; pasteurization "takes a couple of minutes". I did a partial mash boil batch this past weekend, adding the DME slurry starting at 10 min before the end of the boil.
If FG is 1) stable over a couple of days and 2) within the estimated range for the recipe, the beer is generally ready to bottle.
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