Accuflex Bev-Seal Ultra Questions

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J2W2

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Hi,

I'm still working on my keezer build, and I've purchased Bev-Seal Ultra tubing and John Guest fittings for the beer lines. I purchased 100 feet of tubing, mainly because it wasn't that much more than 50 feet. Now that I've seen some posts on line resistance, it's probably a good thing I got the longer roll. I've read various posts on using this tubing, but I still have some questions.

Line length - I've seen threads in this forum with lines varying from 6 feet to 20 feet. I'm going to have a five faucet tower, with the shanks approximately two feet above the kegs. Since it's easy enough to remove and replace the John Guest fittings, should I start with 20 foot lines and trim them as needed? And do you think I can just do that on one faucet to get a baseline for my build, and then cut the other lines accordingly? I typically brew various ales, so my PSI settings are usually pretty consistent, although I've found I need to dial my IPAs back a little or they get too foamy. The reason I ask is I hate to start with five 20-foot lines, only to find out 12 feet is perfect for me and I've wasted a lot of tubing cutting the lines down.

One of the five faucets will be for stout (my first setup with beer gas). Will 20 feet be sufficient for that with the much higher pressure? I'm really hoping I don't need more than 100 feet for the five faucets!

Flexibility - This tubing was listed as semi-rigid, but I didn't realize it would be as rigid as it is. I'm using 1.5" rigid insulation for my build, and my plan was to have three pieces sandwiched together in my tower. The shanks will run through the first layer, and I planned to have the beer lines drop into the freezer in the middle layer, with one more layer behind that.

After receiving the tubing, there is no way I can get it to bend 90 degree (from the shank, into the freezer) in 1.5". I can probably add a fourth layer of insulation, using the middle two for beer lines, which would give me 3" to get the tubing directed downward. I really won't have room for more layers than that. My concern is, even with 3 inches to work in, the tubing will be resisting the bend. The foam insulation obviously has no weight to is, so I'm afraid the tubing will try to push the insulation layers apart.

I know people have used heat guns and boiling water to get this tubing over shanks. Has anyone used boiling water (or something else) to try to "shape" sections of the tubing? I'm wondering if I could boil a foot or so of tubing for a while, bend it into the shape I need, and then run it under cold water to "lock" the new shape? Obviously I want to avoid kinking the lines.

I really want to use this tubing for my build, but if I can't get it to work like I need, I'll have to switch to vinyl.

Thanks for your help!
 

Rev2010

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but if I can't get it to work like I need, I'll have to switch to vinyl.
Or Ultra Barrier Silver (PVC-free) tubing. Has the benefits of the Accuflex but offers the same flow resistance of vinyl, is completely flexible, and is no harder to install than vinyl.

Surprised more people aren't using it but it is more expensive so I guess if that's a factor.


Rev.
 
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J2W2

J2W2

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Or Ultra Barrier Silver (PVC-free) tubing. Has the benefits of the Accuflex but offers the same flow resistance of vinyl, is completely flexible, and is no harder to install than vinyl.

Surprised more people aren't using it but it is more expensive so I guess if that's a factor.
Yikes - $1.69/foot (first couple places I found). The two sites I looked at say "2.2 pounds of restriction/foot", and the one adds "best size for most beer lines under 9' in length. Ideally, 6' provides the correct restriction for serving beer in the 8-14 psi range." Can anyone confirm that 6-foot lines are what I'm probably looking for if I got this route? 30 feet of this wouldn't be much worse than what I paid for 100 feet of the Accuflex.

Also, does anyone know if the John Guest fittings would work on the Ultra Barrier Silver, or is that tubing too thick for these fittings? I like the fittings, but if they wouldn't work, I can go back to my original idea of using 90 degree tailpieces and clamps.

I'll have to think on this for a while, but I am concerned about the flexibility of the Accuflex for my build.

Thanks for your input!
 

jbb3

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Hi,
Line length - I've seen threads in this forum with lines varying from 6 feet to 20 feet. I'm going to have a five faucet tower, with the shanks approximately two feet above the kegs. Since it's easy enough to remove and replace the John Guest fittings, should I start with 20 foot lines and trim them as needed?
I'll be starting my keezer build during Christmas vacation (hopefully) and plan to use Bev-Seal as well. I too had a similar concern/confusion over line length.

I've decided to use Perlick 650SS Flow Control taps, use 5ft lines and not worry about line length. I have no experience with them and HOPE it works as others have described. Worst case, I'll have to rework my lines later... We'll see??

Keep us posted how the John Guess fittings work. I'm not crazy about anything plastic for plumbing type work so decided to find and order swivel nuts with 3/16 barbs.

 
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Rev2010

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Yikes - $1.69/foot (first couple places I found)
Well, considering you don't need as long a line length as with Bev-seal and also don't need John Guest fittings I guess it eases the difference in price a bit more. I don't necessarily agree with their line length suggestion for the Silver, I would go with the usual vinyl line length. I have 12' lines and it pours perfect. Though, as Jbb3 noted above you could always go with short line lengths and the Perlick flow control faucets. Another forum member did tests with varying line lengths using the flow control faucet with excellent results.


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J2W2

J2W2

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Thanks for all the good information. I'll probably switch over to the Ultra Barrier Silver. I haven't ordered my faucets yet. I was planning to get Perlick 630SS, but now I'm looking at the Perlick 650SS as well. The price of this build just keeps on going. :D

I do have question on clamps. If I go with the Ultra Barrier, I'll be putting them on 3/16" barbs for the shanks and disconnects. I also plan to use Oetiker clamps. Everything I read recommends the 13.3 size for 3/16" tubing on a 3/16" barb. I have a growler filler I kind of rigged up, and I used a 3/16" barb/swivel nut on that with a Oetiker 13.3 clamp. The clamp really squeezed down on the tubing - it kind of bulges out around it a little bit. Is that ok, or should I go to the next size up? And is the 13.3 the size I want for the Ultra Barrier tubing? I want a tight seal but I don't want to have it cut into my tubing.

Thanks again!
 

Rev2010

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And is the 13.3 the size I want for the Ultra Barrier tubing? I want a tight seal but I don't want to have it cut into my tubing
13.3 is exactly the Oetiker clamp size I used. I have a 3 tap kegerator and the clamps are the proper size. I had no problem with them at all. I think the ultra barrier silver is actually a slight tad more flexible than vinyl tubing so you should have no issue at all with the 90 degree bend in your 1.5" space.


Rev.
 

jbb3

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... The price of this build just keeps on going. :D
Tell me about it. I've had kegging on the brain as my production started to increase. Just tired of fooling around with all the bottles.

Hadn't really done any research yet but during Cyber Monday, I came across an Igloo 7.1 cu ft freezer ($148) and (2) ball lock kegs ($36 ea shipped). I was feeling good with my deals and thought, a couple hundred more and I'll have this keezer up and running! Boy was I dreaming...

But hey! It's only money!! And it's all for beer right!!;)

Sorry.. A little off topic...

When you take shipping into account, here is about the cheapest I found them. Along with most of the other odds and ends needed.

http://www.ritebrew.com/product-p/843179.htm

I haven't hit the button yet so let me know if you find them cheaper.

:mug:
 

enormous13

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I'll be starting my keezer build during Christmas vacation (hopefully) and plan to use Bev-Seal as well. I too had a similar concern/confusion over line length.

I've decided to use Perlick 650SS Flow Control taps, use 5ft lines and not worry about line length. I have no experience with them and HOPE it works as others have described. Worst case, I'll have to rework my lines later... We'll see??

Keep us posted how the John Guess fittings work. I'm not crazy about anything plastic for plumbing type work so decided to find and order swivel nuts with 3/16 barbs.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIlj1Bq3BUc"]
[/ame]
I know this is a super old thread, but @jbb3 how did it work out with the Bev-Seal Ultra and the flow control taps?
 

jbb3

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Still flowing.... Love the flow controls and still have the sames lines that were installed originally.
:mug:
 
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