A bunch of firsts

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markag

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I got a bunch of new brewing equipment for Christmas to step up into 5 gallon batches. Previously, I had been making 1-2.5 gallon batches on my stovetop, all grain pseudo BIAB / batch sparge.

Well, I got a 10 gallon kettle, propane burner, 52 quart cooler & I spent some pocket change converting it to a mash tun with a copper manifold. I also got a refractometer, which is wonderful on brew day.

My wife put in a request for a hefeweizen batch, so that is what I decided to make as my first 5 gallon batch. And since my first batch of hefeweizen was just OK, I decided to jump in with both feet and try my first decoction mash.

Lots of firsts today... First 5 gallon batch, first time using a propane burner, first time using a true mash tun, first time fly sparging...

I've only been brewing for a year, and I've reached the point where I am focused on hitting my recipe values as planned. I bought beersmith after thanksgiving, and took the time to setup my profiles accurately. It really paid off today. I hit my volumes spot on, and was within 1 point on all of my gravity readings. That's probably the most satisfying part of the entire day, especially with my new equipment and new processes.

The decoction was a last minute decision. As of yesterday, I was planing on just doing any infusion mash. But less than a day of reading up and researching decoction mashes have me the confidence to try out out. It wasn't too difficult, but it felt like I doubled or trippled my mash time (I didn't exactly keep track). I tried to do my initial dough-in and rest at 132-135, just so that I had a reasonable shot of hitting my main mash temp target of 152 with a single decoction. It worked out OK. I decocted about 8 quarts (per beersmith), and it brought my mash temp up to about 144, so I spent another 30 minutes pulling a thin mash, heating to near boil, and introducing it back into the mash until I got to 150-152ish. That was the worst part. It took me 3 attempts to raise the overall mash temp 8 degrees.

I probably won't do a decoction again unless a recipe really needs it. I thought it would be worth a try since this style uses it traditionally, but I'm probably going to hold off on frequent decoction batches.

I have never truely been able to vorlaugh and do a real sparge before with my previous setups, and my initial plan was to batch sparge, but I noticed that my beersmith decoction mash called for a fly sparge, so that's what I went with. I used a colander to disperse the sparge water, and I used my 5 gallon mash tun as a HLT. I mounted it all up like a 3 tier gravity system, and went to town. I didn't have any issues with a stuck sparge, and I was only 1 point short on gravity after the sparge.

The rest of the brew day went as normal (except scaled up). I was right on the money with my boil off rate and final volumes, and just 1 point shy of my gravity, which could be in the range of measurement error.

I had tons of fun, and my biggest fear (brew day going into the late evening) didn't happen. Started setting up around 8am, and pitched the yeast at 4:30 pm. Still a long day, but not unreasonable.

The only thing I that bugs me is my efficiency... I don't feel like I'm getting that great of efficiency. This batch came in at 68% actual efficiency in beersmith. It worked out that I guessed 68% when I setup the recipe, so I got my numbers. My last batch on my old setup only got 64% using a batch sparge brew in a bag method. I thought I would do better with what I did today, but I didn't. I can take comfort in that I hit my recipe, but I would have thought I would have gotten better efficiency.
 

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I got a bunch of new brewing equipment for Christmas to step up into 5 gallon batches. Previously, I had been making 1-2.5 gallon batches on my stovetop, all grain pseudo BIAB / batch sparge.

Well, I got a 10 gallon kettle, propane burner, 52 quart cooler & I spent some pocket change converting it to a mash tun with a copper manifold. I also got a refractometer, which is wonderful on brew day.

My wife put in a request for a hefeweizen batch, so that is what I decided to make as my first 5 gallon batch. And since my first batch of hefeweizen was just OK, I decided to jump in with both feet and try my first decoction mash.

Lots of firsts today... First 5 gallon batch, first time using a propane burner, first time using a true mash tun, first time fly sparging...

I've only been brewing for a year, and I've reached the point where I am focused on hitting my recipe values as planned. I bought beersmith after thanksgiving, and took the time to setup my profiles accurately. It really paid off today. I hit my volumes spot on, and was within 1 point on all of my gravity readings. That's probably the most satisfying part of the entire day, especially with my new equipment and new processes.

The decoction was a last minute decision. As of yesterday, I was planing on just doing any infusion mash. But less than a day of reading up and researching decoction mashes have me the confidence to try out out. It wasn't too difficult, but it felt like I doubled or trippled my mash time (I didn't exactly keep track). I tried to do my initial dough-in and rest at 132-135, just so that I had a reasonable shot of hitting my main mash temp target of 152 with a single decoction. It worked out OK. I decocted about 8 quarts (per beersmith), and it brought my mash temp up to about 144, so I spent another 30 minutes pulling a thin mash, heating to near boil, and introducing it back into the mash until I got to 150-152ish. That was the worst part. It took me 3 attempts to raise the overall mash temp 8 degrees.

I probably won't do a decoction again unless a recipe really needs it. I thought it would be worth a try since this style uses it traditionally, but I'm probably going to hold off on frequent decoction batches.

I have never truely been able to vorlaugh and do a real sparge before with my previous setups, and my initial plan was to batch sparge, but I noticed that my beersmith decoction mash called for a fly sparge, so that's what I went with. I used a colander to disperse the sparge water, and I used my 5 gallon mash tun as a HLT. I mounted it all up like a 3 tier gravity system, and went to town. I didn't have any issues with a stuck sparge, and I was only 1 point short on gravity after the sparge.

The rest of the brew day went as normal (except scaled up). I was right on the money with my boil off rate and final volumes, and just 1 point shy of my gravity, which could be in the range of measurement error.

I had tons of fun, and my biggest fear (brew day going into the late evening) didn't happen. Started setting up around 8am, and pitched the yeast at 4:30 pm. Still a long day, but not unreasonable.

The only thing I that bugs me is my efficiency... I don't feel like I'm getting that great of efficiency. This batch came in at 68% actual efficiency in beersmith. It worked out that I guessed 68% when I setup the recipe, so I got my numbers. My last batch on my old setup only got 64% using a batch sparge brew in a bag method. I thought I would do better with what I did today, but I didn't. I can take comfort in that I hit my recipe, but I would have thought I would have gotten better efficiency.

Mash efficiency is closely related to the quality of the crush of the grain. To get better efficiency, crush better. However, if you crush too fine you get a stuck mash......unless you provide a better way to separate the wort from the grains. A nice bag from Wilserbrewer made to fit your mash tun will do that. If it doesn't want to drain, lift the bag to expose more filter area.
 
At ~70% efficiency you are doing fine, especially on a brand new system. As was mentioned, crush has an effect on efficiency, if you crush your own grain, tighten up the gap. If you get it from a lhbs, see if they can mill it twice. If you buy it crushed on line you are out of luck.

You can always use a corona mill to mill your own grains. Plenty of people start with the corona mill, and many stick with it. I believe it is biermuncher who has a thread on how to modify and set up.

Another thing that will effect extraction is mash PH. I would start with your crush, as that is the easiest step (at first) to master and control. Once you have reached your highest efficiency by manipulating your crush, then you can dive off the deep end in to water chemistry. You can either buy self test kits, or have a sample sent to lab. After you get the results you can use a “calculator” like bru n water, to make chemical additions to get you to the Ph and water profile that is optimal for your grist.
 
Are you talking about mash efficiency or brewhouse efficiency? If you’re talking about mash efficiency, you are correct, that’s not good. A brewhouse efficiency of 68% isn’t all that bad. On my setup, I consistently get mash efficiencies around 99% on most beers. My brewhouse efficiency is always around 75% and as low as 70% on big beers. My only water losses are boil off, and about a quart of dead space in my mash tune.

TLDR - 68% brewhouse efficiency isn’t terrible as long as mash efficiency is above 90%.
 
Brewhouse efficiency is 68%.

24 hours in, and my fermerntation is going strong... Blew the bung off of my 7.5 gallon fermenter, even with a 3/8" blow off tube.
 

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