A bit higher final gravity
- Thread starter Sergiy
- Start date
-
- Tags
- fermenation final gravity
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
Yes, it does make sense!
Rule of thumb is to take 2 gravity readings 3 days apart. If both are the same AND it's close to the expected FG, the beer is typically done.
I'd give it at least another 3-5 days at somewhat higher temps (72-74F) and see if it budges.
There are many reasons why a beer won't exactly reach expected FG. 2-3 points higher is considered acceptable, as long as you raised the ferm temps toward the end to keep it going.
However, there is always a chance fermentation resumes at some point, which could cause overcarbonated beer or even bottle bombs.
IIRC, there was another thread, a month ago or so, where the FG was 10 points high, but after a couple weeks at higher temps, it had lost a few points.
I think he also used M44 yeast. She maybe a slow finisher, or under certain circumstances.
For most beer styles extra time in the fermenter is good anyway, gives it time to finish out and condition, losing its green-ness.
Just avoid air (O2) contact which causes oxidation and is bad for all beer. More so the hoppier the beer is.
Avoid secondaries! Leave it where it is, in the 'primary.'
Rule of thumb is to take 2 gravity readings 3 days apart. If both are the same AND it's close to the expected FG, the beer is typically done.
I'd give it at least another 3-5 days at somewhat higher temps (72-74F) and see if it budges.
There are many reasons why a beer won't exactly reach expected FG. 2-3 points higher is considered acceptable, as long as you raised the ferm temps toward the end to keep it going.
However, there is always a chance fermentation resumes at some point, which could cause overcarbonated beer or even bottle bombs.
IIRC, there was another thread, a month ago or so, where the FG was 10 points high, but after a couple weeks at higher temps, it had lost a few points.
I think he also used M44 yeast. She maybe a slow finisher, or under certain circumstances.
For most beer styles extra time in the fermenter is good anyway, gives it time to finish out and condition, losing its green-ness.
Just avoid air (O2) contact which causes oxidation and is bad for all beer. More so the hoppier the beer is.
Avoid secondaries! Leave it where it is, in the 'primary.'
Steveruch
Well-Known Member
Recipe and details please.
OP
OP
Sergiy
Active Member
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2018
- Messages
- 36
- Reaction score
- 7
IPA, OG/FG - 1.050/1.010 with dry hopping. Yeast M44 US WEST COAST YEAST. Usually, after 10 days, I got 1.010, but with time I have 20-21C temperature for fermentation when usually I got 23-24C. I'm just curious if a few days of fermentation will help to get 2-3 gravity point, or I'm done with fermentation and time for bottling.
Cooler fermentation temps give better beer, but will take longer. 23-24C is certainly hot.
As I said warm it up (to 23-24C is good in this case) when it's nearing the final stages, before it totally stops, with say, 8-10 points to go. That's the best course of action with any yeast.
Bottle early at your own risk.
Clonefan94
Senior Member
Maybe this is stupid and you did this already, but considering this is the beginners forum I will ask. Did you calibrate your hydrometer? I have been brewing for about 6.5 years now. I have had my same hydrometer that entire time. As you may guess, since I still have it, I take very good care of it. A few months ago I was having higher FGs than normal and thought it had to do with the new system I had. Well, I decided to look at my hydrometer and test it for accuracy using distilled water, then a sugar solution to give me 1.050, since that is a good middle ground for most of my beers. Sure enough, it's just shy of .004 high on both ends. No idea how this happened, but the paper sleeve must have slipped at some point, since I had checked it for accuracy when I first got it.
As others have said, more time won't hurt, but make sure your hydrometer is reading correctly before you start changing anything in the process.
As others have said, more time won't hurt, but make sure your hydrometer is reading correctly before you start changing anything in the process.
Know what I’m doing tonight!
Pardon my ignorance but how exactly you mix for that? I read this calibration suggestion all around but no one mentions the details. How can I make a 1.070, 1.050, 1.030, 1.020 solution? What temp must the solution be? Will that solution work with a refractometer too? Thanks.
Sucrose (cane sugar) contributes 46 points per pound in a gallon of water. A little math and you'll have your answer.The calibration temperature for your hydrometer should be included in the documentation that came packaged with it. Most I have seen are either 60 or 68 degrees F.
Ok. Let me see if I get this. If I mix one pound of the regular white Dixie sugar in one gallon of distilled water it should read 1.046 at solution spec temp (60° or 68°F) if hydro has perfect calibration?
Clonefan94
Senior Member
Sorry for the late response, I didn't get a chance to check in until now. Brew Your Own has a good page on calibrating hydrometer, just do a google for "Hydrometer Calibration" and look for the link (should be the first one). They give you formulas and actually a specific solution for 1.048. I forget the rules here exactly. So I don't want to post a link.
Thanks!
Similar threads
