jlogue3454
Well-Known Member
Hey guys, I just received my $7.00 temp controller in the mail and I'm confused on how to wire this thing. Anyone else have one of these? I'm planning on using it for a fermentation chamber. model # is MH1210A.
$7.00 Digital Temp Controller
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danb35
Well-Known Member
Looks to me like 1-2 are the switched load, 3-4 are line voltage, and 5-6 are the temp sensor (a negative temperature coefficient, 10k ohm thermistor).
Not really an answer to your question, but....
Looks a lot like my WH7016 controller, almost identical in fact. - a decent controller, but only does heat *OR* cool. so its OK for a refrigerator or freezer replacement - I use it for my kegerator.
there is also a very similar looking STC1000 controller, which you may have seen on forums here - that controller does heat *AND* cool - I use one of these for my fermentation chamber.
I've found that these cheap controllers work well, but note that they only display in celsius.
I concur with danb, and add that in the diagram you posted - that box with the X in it, and the chinese characters at the side - that represents the load that you want to control - (ie your heater or your cooling device)
Also, check that whatever you're controlling doesn't exceed the amperage rating of the controller.
Looks a lot like my WH7016 controller, almost identical in fact. - a decent controller, but only does heat *OR* cool. so its OK for a refrigerator or freezer replacement - I use it for my kegerator.
there is also a very similar looking STC1000 controller, which you may have seen on forums here - that controller does heat *AND* cool - I use one of these for my fermentation chamber.
I've found that these cheap controllers work well, but note that they only display in celsius.
I concur with danb, and add that in the diagram you posted - that box with the X in it, and the chinese characters at the side - that represents the load that you want to control - (ie your heater or your cooling device)
Also, check that whatever you're controlling doesn't exceed the amperage rating of the controller.
Punx Clever
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Wire it just like the picture:
One lead of your 110v AC supply goes to terminal 1 and 3.
The other lead of your 110v AC supply goes to terminal 4.
Put the load (fridge, freezer, power outlet that is being controlled etc) between terminal 2 and the lead going to terminal 4.
Attach your sensor to terminals 5 and 6.
One lead of your 110v AC supply goes to terminal 1 and 3.
The other lead of your 110v AC supply goes to terminal 4.
Put the load (fridge, freezer, power outlet that is being controlled etc) between terminal 2 and the lead going to terminal 4.
Attach your sensor to terminals 5 and 6.
Has nobody read #3 of the intruction booklet?
I know that I try not to frequent places where the elderly could be touched much less put my fridge there.
I know that I try not to frequent places where the elderly could be touched much less put my fridge there.
ha ha....no, I missed that the first time around... 
..those chinese to english translations, sometimes they're as funny as they are confusing.
..those chinese to english translations, sometimes they're as funny as they are confusing.mysterio
Well-Known Member
Can anyone post a picture of their wiring for this controller? The MH1210a.
Now that is funny.
Drifting79
Member
Hey guys I have bought one of these also
I am going to use it with 220v I am not to sure wether I need to earth
This or not the diagram doesn't state so?
It looks easy enough but thought I would ask before making any start on the project
Any help much appreciated
I have wired up a stc 1000 before but this is kind of different as it only has the single control output
I am going to use it with 220v I am not to sure wether I need to earth
This or not the diagram doesn't state so?
It looks easy enough but thought I would ask before making any start on the project
Any help much appreciated
I have wired up a stc 1000 before but this is kind of different as it only has the single control output
masteraviator
Well-Known Member
I realize this is an old thread, but here is how I wired my MH1210 for an always hot outlet and another switched outlet. Works great.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/photo/picture2-61809.html
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/photo/picture2-61809.html
raouliii
Well-Known Member
Looks good. Did you connect the ground from the plug to the receptacle? If not, I would strongly recommend it.
BTW, there are Fahrenheit models of the single-stage controllers available. The STC-1000, two-stage controller, is Celsius only.
day_trippr
Moderna Or Bust! :D
The MH1210 he used is a Fahrenheit model. Always has been...
Cheers!
Cheers!
raouliii
Well-Known Member
Cool. I stand corrected.
My assumption was based on the OP's photos indicating Celcius. I guess there is a difference between a MH1210 and a MH1210A?
day_trippr
Moderna Or Bust! :D
The OP never posted a picture of his MH1210 actually operating.
You saw an Eltech controller picture posted by someone else...
Cheers!
raouliii
Well-Known Member
Not to be argumentative, but in the #1 post on this thread, the OP states a model # of MH1210A and has a photo of a MH1210 with no letter boxes marked, the front panel of which indicates Celcius. I simply assumed that masteraviator, who I was responding to, had the same thing. The eltech stc1000 photo was posted by atoughram.
day_trippr
Moderna Or Bust! :D
You're right, I didn't even notice the C° on the face. The text on top of the unit only references F°, which I did see.
A quick Google indicates the A, B and C versions were indeed available in Centigrade - and perhaps only Centigrade, while the F & G versions are both Fahrenheit models. So I'm going to back up and agree with your original statement
Cheers!
A quick Google indicates the A, B and C versions were indeed available in Centigrade - and perhaps only Centigrade, while the F & G versions are both Fahrenheit models. So I'm going to back up and agree with your original statement
Cheers!
masteraviator
Well-Known Member
Yeah. Mine is a MH1210F. 110VaC and °F.
Derek49
Member
I have picked one of these up myself and having trouble. Below is how I've got it set up. So to all you brilliant people, what do I have wrong?
day_trippr
Moderna Or Bust! :D
You have two neutral connections to the load on both sides of the relay (pins 1 and 2). That ain't gonna work
What you want to do is connect the neutral (white) wire to the load to the white wire on pin 3.
Then add a line/hot/black side connection from pin 4 to pin 2 to bring power to one side of the relay.
Then connect the line/hot/black wire to the load to pin 1, which is the other side of the relay.
That way you're switching the hot side (proper) and the white white provides the return all the way back to your wall outlet.
Make it look like this and you're good to go...
Cheers!
What you want to do is connect the neutral (white) wire to the load to the white wire on pin 3.
Then add a line/hot/black side connection from pin 4 to pin 2 to bring power to one side of the relay.
Then connect the line/hot/black wire to the load to pin 1, which is the other side of the relay.
That way you're switching the hot side (proper) and the white white provides the return all the way back to your wall outlet.
Make it look like this and you're good to go...
Cheers!
Derek49
Member
OUTSTANDING!!! Many thanks, that worked like a champ. I usually don't have a problem with simple electrical stuff. I finished wiring up my fermentation chamber. I wired a socket to the load end so I can either plug in a fan in the summer or a simple heater for the winter. A little clean up on my build and I'm ready to give it a shot....probably next weekend.
Many thanks, that worked like a champ. I usually don't have a problem with simple electrical stuff. I finished wiring up my fermentation chamber. I wired a socket to the load end so I can either plug in a fan in the summer or a simple heater for the winter. A little clean up on my build and I'm ready to give it a shot....probably next weekend.species8472
Member
Where is says in the specs that the Control Out is 10A/AC220V, does that mean the appliance (in my case minifridge) has to be 220V?
Thanks!
Thanks!
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No, it means it can handle up to 10A at 220V. At 120V it ables to handle at least 10A also. . If you plug the controller to 120V output voltage will be 120V as well.
species8472
Member
Derek49 and or daytrppr since that image is not shown can either of inform me where the load wire is going?
I have recently bought the MH1210 with the intent I would be able to wire directly to compressor without the need for additional receptacle?
However the only images I am able to find online depict this controller to be wired to a additional receptacle controlled by MH1210.
Please advise
I have recently bought the MH1210 with the intent I would be able to wire directly to compressor without the need for additional receptacle?
However the only images I am able to find online depict this controller to be wired to a additional receptacle controlled by MH1210.
Please advise
benducklow
Member
Is there a way I can simply hook up an extension cord - male plug coming is as the power side then the female end of the extension cord to the load side?
I tried your wiring method, day_trippr but it didnt' work (no power to the unit). I'll like to plug in my small chest freezer to the female end of this wiring scenario to basically turn on the compressor when it get too warm in the chest.
Thanks in advance whomever can help!
I tried your wiring method, day_trippr but it didnt' work (no power to the unit). I'll like to plug in my small chest freezer to the female end of this wiring scenario to basically turn on the compressor when it get too warm in the chest.
Thanks in advance whomever can help!
day_trippr
Moderna Or Bust! :D
Here's a wiring diagram for the MH1210. You can wire a male plug on the input (line) side and a female socket or a wall outlet on the output (load) side.
Black is AC Hot, White is AC Neutral, Green is Safety Ground (and like all of these controllers, there's no provision for a Safety Ground on the chassis)...
Cheers!
[edit]
If you followed that image and your controller isn't lighting up, I bet you have the line power coming on the load side - which doesn't connect to the controller's power supply (it's on the wrong side of the relay). Follow my drawing below and it'll just plain work.
If you wanted to hardwire the relay to control a compressor, you just need to open the circuit at the compressor and wire the load side hot lead to the compressor input, connect the neutral to the fridge/freezer neutral circuit pretty much anywhere, then tap into the line side hot wire inside the fridge or freezer for the line side hot feed. No need for plugs or sockets, you just need a spot to stick the controller...
Black is AC Hot, White is AC Neutral, Green is Safety Ground (and like all of these controllers, there's no provision for a Safety Ground on the chassis)...
Cheers!
[edit]
That wasn't my wiring method, I was just correcting someone else's because it clearly wasn't going to work. He made that change and it worked.
If you followed that image and your controller isn't lighting up, I bet you have the line power coming on the load side - which doesn't connect to the controller's power supply (it's on the wrong side of the relay). Follow my drawing below and it'll just plain work.
If you wanted to hardwire the relay to control a compressor, you just need to open the circuit at the compressor and wire the load side hot lead to the compressor input, connect the neutral to the fridge/freezer neutral circuit pretty much anywhere, then tap into the line side hot wire inside the fridge or freezer for the line side hot feed. No need for plugs or sockets, you just need a spot to stick the controller...
andrhamm
Well-Known Member
Picked up my MH1210 from Amazon when it showed up on HomebrewFinds on sale for $13.50 shipped. Just got it wired up in 20 minutes and currently using it with my food dehydrator (which only has two modes... on and off) to dry 5 quarts of Nugget hops without going over 90ºF.
