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6 Gal recipe??

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Arkhomer

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I am see recipes for a lot of 6 gallon batches out there. I have a set up where I am filling 5 gallon corny kegs (like most I imagine). What's up with the 6 gallon batches? Folks bottling a gallon? This doesn't have anything to do with pre-boil volume does it? Do most typically alter the 6 gal recipe to fit a 5 gal volume?
 

FloppyKnockers

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I'm on the other side of this pond. I don't think I've ever seen a 6-gallon recipe. Only 1, 3, 5, & 10. Do you have a link to one of these?
 

MrPowers

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A lot of people are doing 5.5-6.5 Gallon recipes now to account for trub loss in the fermenter and make sure they can actually fill a 5 gallon corny without transferring trub. You see it a lot more with heavily hopped IPA's.
 

jekeane

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as mr powers said.

The 6 gallon batch allows for assorted losses along the way. These are different for each brewer I suppose.

For instance my batch size is 6 gallons and I am planning on losing .5 gallon to trub in my hoses are whirlpool and stuff that settled right around the dip tube. I also put 5.5 into my brew bucket knowing I am going to lose .5 to the yeast cake and collection cone.
 

jekeane

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Hayden123982

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I like a 6 - 6.5 gallon batch size so that I can account for losses like above, but I also like to have a couple bottles (like 2-3 per batch) to bring in to the LHBS guys. I find it is easier to bring in beer that way.

Also, I got lucky with a recent batch and had a higher pre-boil gravity so I got to add even more water pre-boil and end up with a 4/5 gallons of extra saison that I put in a 1 gallon glass jug and co-pitched some Bret strains into.
 

FloppyKnockers

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Well that's just stupid (not you guys, the whole calling a 7 gal when it's a 5). Of course there's going to be loss. If I see a recipe for a "5-gallon batch" I assume that that's what I will be left with. By this rationale, whenever I brew I should call it an 8 or 9-gallon batch because that's what I started with to account for grain absorption, boil off, and trub loss.

The recipe looks delicious, BTW.
 

Griffin495

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Jamil accounts for .5g of trub left in kettle and another .5g trub in fermenter.

He also uses Rager, not Tinseth for his IBUs at least according to Brewing Classic Styles
 
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Arkhomer

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Another question. I pitched w1056. First time I haven't used white labs. I noticed on the back of the slap pack it says ferments up to 1.060. OG of the red was 1.064. Think I will be ok? Did not use a starter. Total volume was ~5.25 gallons
 
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Arkhomer

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11 days into fermentation. Got hydrometer reading of 1.020 down from 1.064. Could still see minimal action going on. Think I should add dry yeast or see if it hits target?
 

Hayden123982

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What yeast are you using? What temp did you ferment at? Have you tried bumping the temp yet or giving some light agitation to your vessel? What are you brewing?
 
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Arkhomer

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  • 12.0 lb. (5.44 kg) British Pale malt 3L
  • 1.0 lb. (0.45 kg) Crystal 40L
  • 1.0 lb. (0.45 kg) Munich malt 8L
  • 0.5 lb. (0.22 kg) Victory malt 25L
  • 0.5 lb. (0.22 kg) Crystal 120L
  • 0.25 lb. (0.11 kg) Pale Chocolate malt 200L
  • 0.5 oz. (14 g) Centennial pellet hops, 10% a.a. (20 min.) (6 IBU)
  • 0.5 oz. (14 g) Amarillo pellet hops, 7% a.a. (20 min.) (5 IBU)
  • 1.0 oz. (28 g) Centennial pellet hops, 10% a.a. (10 min.) (8 IBU)
  • 1.0 oz. (28 g) Amarillo pellet hops, 7% a.a. (10 min.) (5 IBU)
  • 1.0 oz. (28 g) Centennial pellet hops, 10% a.a. (0 min.) (0 IBU)
  • 1.0 oz. (28 g) Amarillo pellet hops, 7% a.a. (0 min.) (0 IBU)
  • Yeast: A clean, neutral yeast that attenuates in the mid-70-percent range is perfect. White Labs WLP001 California Ale and Wyeast 1056 American Ale are excellent choices. A good dry yeast option is Fermentis Safale US-56. Ferment at 68° F (20° C)
SPECIFICATIONS
  • Original Gravity: 1.066
  • Final Gravity: 1.016
  • ABV: 6.66%
  • IBU: 24
  • SRM: 17
  • Boil Time: 90 minutes
  • Efficiency: 70%
Wyeast 1056. I moved the fermenter into my closet because I had to get another batch going in my fermentation chamber. It was about 73-74 in the closet. I did some searching and was afraid that was too warm so it's back in ~69°F
 

Hayden123982

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If it started the first few days in a lower range, I wouldn't be concerned about 74. I actually would have guessed that would help it finish quicker. Have you taken another gravity reading yet? I don't think you'll need another yeast, you are pretty close to target and 11 days post ferment probably just wasn't enough
 
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Arkhomer

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If it started the first few days in a lower range, I wouldn't be concerned about 74. I actually would have guessed that would help it finish quicker. Have you taken another gravity reading yet? I don't think you'll need another yeast, you are pretty close to target and 11 days post ferment probably just wasn't enough
So I just checked it again. From Monday to today is has dropped .01 from 1.020 to 1.019. I can still see a small bubble every couple seconds. I am in a leaky bucket so I duck taped the lid on and think I'm going to let it sit another 5 days or so. Do you think it would be better to ferment at 69 or 74 at this point?
20180907_133204.jpeg
 

Hayden123982

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I'd let it get up to the 74 if you wanted to drop it a little more easily, but how is it tasting right now?

Also, careful with O2 exposure when you get your bucket open like that. If you can, I'd purge with CO2 if you ever need to open your lid up.

Looks tasty!
 

TheHopfather

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I brew 6 gal (22.7L) batches when I'm doing a NEIPA, just to account for losses with all of the dry hopping. My standard batch size is 5.5 gal (20.8L), that ensures I'm getting a completely full keg. I don't mind dumping what little extra is left over down the drain.
 
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Arkhomer

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I'd let it get up to the 74 if you wanted to drop it a little more easily, but how is it tasting right now?

Also, careful with O2 exposure when you get your bucket open like that. If you can, I'd purge with CO2 if you ever need to open your lid up.

Looks tasty!
Tastes really good! Just trying to get that abv up a touch. It's like 5.9 right now and should be closer to 6.6. Yea I hate opening them. I made it quick to take a pic. Plus I'm hoping the tape will help with what little co2 release is still occurring
 

balrog

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Temp really Really REALLY important during first stages of fermentation, but after the majority is done (3-4 days) not as terribly important, but maybe to ramp up a little to ensure finishing. WY1056 is WYeast not White Labs by the way. And at this point any temp is fine. I'd let it sit another week (big beers take longer, like a good stew, to meld flavors anyway).

No real need to tape the bucket either. I mean it's nice to know via airlock that things are going well and all but no need to super secure things. Gas is gonna go where gas wants to go.
 
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