50 amp control panel need help troubleshooting

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jblockbrew

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I have final wired up my control panel, not the prettiest wiring job out there but got it completed. The issue I’m having is that I am getting 240 volts coming into the the contactor but am not getting anything on the output side. With that being said, the unit does not power on at all. I was told that I may have fried the coil inside, so I ordered a replacement one and still have the same issue. I have posted a picture to help visualize what I Am talking about. Any suggestions/ thoughts would be appreciated.
 

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doug293cz

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Sounds like your contactor coil is wired wrong, or the switch controlling power to the coil is wired wrong or faulty. Can't trace any wires in that photo, so no way to figure out what might be wrong.

Why do you have all black wires connected to the contactor input and output terminals? Normally, a two pole contactor is used to switch hot-1 and hot-2. These two power phases should never use the same color wire - it's just asking for trouble, and makes trouble shooting much more difficult. Usual colors are black for one hot and red for the other hot (and which color goes with which phase needs to be consistent throughout the panel.)

Brew on :mug:
 

Brewdog80

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Looks like you have incoming power on output side.... At least thay is what It looks like to me. p1 and p2 are input
 

doug293cz

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Looks like you have incoming power on output side.... At least thay is what It looks like to me. p1 and p2 are input
Shouldn't actually matter, as the internal connection is just made by simple contacts.

Brew on :mug:
 

Bobby_M

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Without a diagram or very detailed pictures, there's nothing definitive to say. However, Doug's suggestion to use different color wires is crucial for even your own troubleshooting.

I use black for L1 hot, red for L2 hot, white for neutral and green for ground. I like using blue or yellow for the signal voltage to the SSR.

What is the coil voltage rating on the contactor? If you put a meter across the contactor coil terminals, does it have that rated voltage applied? Until then, the contactor will not close.
 

Bobby_M

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Looks like you have incoming power on output side.... At least thay is what It looks like to me. p1 and p2 are input

There really is no directionality on a contactor but P1 and P2 certainly are not inputs. P1 is connected to P2 when the coil energizes. If you wired L1 to P1 and L2 to P2, closing the contactor results in a 240 volt short.
 

ITV

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Zooming in on the photo, the contactor coil voltage is 110VAC.

For the contactor to pull-in you will need 120VAC across A1 & A2.

Without a schematic this is as far as we can help you.
 

fbold1

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I have final wired up my control panel, not the prettiest wiring job out there but got it completed. The issue I’m having is that I am getting 240 volts coming into the the contactor but am not getting anything on the output side. With that being said, the unit does not power on at all. I was told that I may have fried the coil inside, so I ordered a replacement one and still have the same issue. I have posted a picture to help visualize what I Am talking about. Any suggestions/ thoughts would be appreciated.
Coil wired right, correct coil voltage?
 
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jblockbrew

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This is the diagram I used. It came with the diy kit from ebrew supply. I am picking up different color wire on the way home tonight and going to rewire with different colored wires so it is easier to trace.
 

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ITV

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It appears that you only included one page of the schematics, I have attached what I believe the schematic set for your unit.

Your photo appears to be the main contactor. The coil is wired through the Power Off/On selector switch. With the switch in the on position will send 120V to the coil, the other side of the coil should be the neutral wire. You should be able to measure 120VAC across A1 & A2, if not then something is wired incorrectly.

It is also important that the wire insulation be properly stripped (no broken strands and stripped to the proper length). The wire lugs and wire terminals should also be tightened to the proper torque (done by feel to an experienced electrician/panel wireman to prevent loose connections.
 

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itsnotrequired

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check the control wiring from the 1, 2, 3 or 4 terminals (240v terminals) up to the on-off key switch. that is the 120v source for operating the coil. you should have 120v at one end of the key switch contact all the time. if you accidentally hooked up to the load side of the contactor, you won't have 120v to operate the coil. flip control wire to opposite side of contactor.
 
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jblockbrew

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It appears that you only included one page of the schematics, I have attached what I believe the schematic set for your unit.

Your photo appears to be the main contactor. The coil is wired through the Power Off/On selector switch. With the switch in the on position will send 120V to the coil, the other side of the coil should be the neutral wire. You should be able to measure 120VAC across A1 & A2, if not then something is wired incorrectly.

It is also important that the wire insulation be properly stripped (no broken strands and stripped to the proper length). The wire lugs and wire terminals should also be tightened to the proper torque (done by feel to an experienced electrician/panel wireman to prevent loose connections.
Thank you for the attachment. You are correct I only attached one page, I tried to get all the wiring that was done,however the ones you attached have more information than what I have. I have never seen this schematic on their website. When I get the other color wires I guess I will start all over and retrace my wiring using the attachment you included. Thanks for all the help.
 

ITV

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Thank you for the attachment. You are correct I only attached one page, I tried to get all the wiring that was done,however the ones you attached have more information than what I have. I have never seen this schematic on their website. When I get the other color wires I guess I will start all over and retrace my wiring using the attachment you included. Thanks for all the help.
I agree with itsnotrequired's assesment that the 120V source was incorrectly hooked up to the load side. If that is the case I suggest verifying all the wiring (with the power off).
 
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jblockbrew

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So I replaced all the black wire from the input with red and white and still not powering on. I believe that I have the contactor wired correctly according to the diagram. The wiring is not the neatest but will fix it when I fig out why it won’t power on. I also included how I have the inlet wired up.
B8BC4D1A-89A0-4C55-9E03-7B4720D11855.jpeg
A64AAAAA-F76B-4B38-BB0E-05E143155EF6.jpeg
60B99068-964E-4CA4-BE05-D2973E7B57A8.jpeg
B8BC4D1A-89A0-4C55-9E03-7B4720D11855.jpeg A64AAAAA-F76B-4B38-BB0E-05E143155EF6.jpeg 60B99068-964E-4CA4-BE05-D2973E7B57A8.jpeg Thanks for your help.
 

ITV

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It looks like the A2 on the main contactor is not wired to the other side of the Power On/Off switch, instead it looks like it is wired to another contactor coil.
Recheck your wiring for the Power On/Off switch circuit as well as the remaining wiring.
 

Bobby_M

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Agree with above. The A2 on the 63A relay coil is connected to another A2 on another contactor. That's not going to provide the 120v to the coil.
 

itsnotrequired

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It looks like the A2 on the main contactor is not wired to the other side of the Power On/Off switch, instead it looks like it is wired to another contactor coil.
Recheck your wiring for the Power On/Off switch circuit as well as the remaining wiring.
Agree with above. The A2 on the 63A relay coil is connected to another A2 on another contactor. That's not going to provide the 120v to the coil.

yup. looking at this expanded photo, there is a smaller conductor coming off terminal 2 of the main contactor. wiring gets a little clouded but looks like it is running off the photo, assume it is to the power on key switch (that is where it needs to go). the other conductor coming off that main key switch needs to go to the A2 terminal on the main contactor.
 

doug293cz

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It looks like the A2 on the main contactor is not wired to the other side of the Power On/Off switch, instead it looks like it is wired to another contactor coil.
Recheck your wiring for the Power On/Off switch circuit as well as the remaining wiring.
Agree with above. The A2 on the 63A relay coil is connected to another A2 on another contactor. That's not going to provide the 120v to the coil.
This is what I see as well. The black wire coming off the A2 terminal of the main contactor needs to go to a switch that has the other terminal connected to the "black" hot bus/incoming hot.

Brew on :mug:
 

itsnotrequired

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Thank you for the attachment. You are correct I only attached one page, I tried to get all the wiring that was done,however the ones you attached have more information than what I have. I have never seen this schematic on their website. When I get the other color wires I guess I will start all over and retrace my wiring using the attachment you included. Thanks for all the help.

quick heads-up that page 1 and 5 of the pdf have a wiring error for the green power-on light on the door. it shows both wires for the light coming off the three terminal blocks that are jumpered together. these terminals are all at the same potential so the light will never turn on, even if powered. one wire needs to go to the set of two terminals below the isolation plat in that lineup of five terminals. this set of terminals is the other leg of the 240v circuit and will be at different potentials when energized, illuminating the light. looking at your recent photo, looks like the terminal blocks to the left of the main contactor are these five terminal blocks. the two smaller red wires on there go off the photo, assume they go to the light and looks like you have it wired correctly.
 

ITV

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It looks like the A2 on the main contactor is not wired to the other side of the Power On/Off switch, instead it looks like it is wired to another contactor coil.
Recheck your wiring for the Power On/Off switch circuit as well as the remaining wiring.
I can't stress enough to recheck all your wiring. If you don't feel up to the task, have someone qualified do it. A 50A 220V circuit is not something to experiment with.
 
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jblockbrew

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quick heads-up that page 1 and 5 of the pdf have a wiring error for the green power-on light on the door. it shows both wires for the light coming off the three terminal blocks that are jumpered together. these terminals are all at the same potential so the light will never turn on, even if powered. one wire needs to go to the set of two terminals below the isolation plat in that lineup of five terminals. this set of terminals is the other leg of the 240v circuit and will be at different potentials when energized, illuminating the light. looking at your recent photo, looks like the terminal blocks to the left of the main contactor are these five terminal blocks. the two smaller red wires on there go off the photo, assume they go to the light and looks like you have it wired correctly.

I see that now comparing it to the original schematics I used, so I did not move those wires. Thanks for pointing it out.
 
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jblockbrew

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I got that corrected and have added more colored wires and it powered, I know in the future to use more colored wires. I also found a couple of loose wires where they are not fitting into the terminals, and breakers properly due to the use of the ferrule’s. I thought that this would make connections easier but it did not. I won’t be using them again. So hopefully after I cut them all off and reattach everything it works. And yes ITV it is nothing to screw around with. I have always completely disconnected the power source and use extreme care when working with electricity. Thank you for all the help And suggestions.
 

ITV

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I don't mean to be the A-hole, but I work in the power plant industry which personal protection is priorty. Please put your personel safety as a priorty and double check your wiring.
 

ITV

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Another safety concern, I assume that you are feeding your control panel with a 50A, 2-pole, GFCI breaker.
 
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