5.2 Mash Stabilizer

[captaineriv]

Seems that a lot of you use this product and have been satisfied, so I figured I'd try some for myself. Before I use it, I want to make sure I'm reading the directions right because they seem a little confusing. The directions say:

"Use at a rate of 1 TBL./5 gal. of water used in your brew. Calculate the amount of water based on the total volume in the kettle (ex. 5gal. leaving kettle use 1 TBL.)"

Are they assuming that the mash tun is a "kettle" or are they referring to the brew kettle collecting the runoff? I would assume that I should add the stuff based on the amount of water going into the mash tun with the grain, and then also add it to my approx 5 gal of sparge water in my hot liquor tank, prior to sparging. Can someone please clear this up for me?

captaineriv

 

[captaineriv]

Or is the kettle they're talking about the one used to heat up the mash water before adding it to the tun?

 

[Rhoobarb]

I use it in my mash water only... ~ 1 Tbsp./5 gal. That's all. I have water that is so high I can't measure it with pH papers! This stuff really seems to help.

 

[captaineriv]

Thanks Rhoobarb. I am in an area of relatively soft water and am trying to brew very dark stouts. I've heard that it does a good job treating hard water, but does it also do a good job hardening up low pH, softer water?

captaineriv

 

[Rhoobarb]

Thanks Rhoobarb. I am in an area of relatively soft water and am trying to brew very dark stouts. I've heard that it does a good job treating hard water, but does it also do a good job hardening up low pH, softer water?

captaineriv

Sorry, don't know about that. I have very hard water. Hopefully, somebody else will chime in here.

 

[brackbrew]

If I read Dave Miller right in his Homebrewing Guide, it doesn't matter if the wrong amount is added, the pH will go to and stay at 5.2, so I wouldn't worry about your volume in the mash tun. Although somebody please correct me if I'm way off base.

 

[david_42]

I use it in the mash & the sparge. Sparge water is probably more critical, since the grains will tend to buffer the mash. It doesn't matter if your water pH is high or low, 5.2 will adjust it. A little extra isn't a problem.

It doesn't harden the water, though. You need gypsum for that.

 

[captaineriv]

Thanks for the replies. It's good to know that it will raise and lower pH to achieve 5.2. My first AG batch is Saturday and I'm not concerned so much about the hardness of the water as I am keeping a stable mash pH. I might have even misused the word "hardness" earlier. From what I've read, it seems that stouts are generally made from water high in carbonate, so I (in an ideal world...) would need to use calcium carbonate and/or sodium bicarbonate to replicate the water of Dublin. I've read Palmer's explanation of water treatment and also talked to my local water plant to find out how much calcium, magnesium, bicarbonate, etc. is in my water. I think I have a decent understanding of it, but I'll take the "Keep It Simple, Stupid" approach with this one and get more adventurous at a later date. I'll use the 5.2 in the mash and sparge water and see how it all turns out. Good to know that a little extra won't hurt. And screw those cheap pH strips. They're worthless!

captaineriv

 

[captaineriv]

I may have mentioned that my tap water is very low in calcium, magnesium, and carbonate, so my last question is if I decided, in addition to the 5.2 stabilizer, to add a tsp or so of calcium carbonate to the mash to make my water harder and higher in carbonate, would the 5.2 stabilizer still do its job in maintaining the 5.2 pH, or would the calcium carbonate possibly conflict with it or override it? And also, even if the two can be used together and maintain the 5.2 pH, could adding both of these substances start to negatively affect flavor?

captaineriv
​

 

[Rhoobarb]

I may have mentioned that my tap water is very low in calcium, magnesium, and carbonate, so my last question is if I decided, in addition to the 5.2 stabilizer, to add a tsp or so of calcium carbonate to the mash to make my water harder and higher in carbonate, would the 5.2 stabilizer still do its job in maintaining the 5.2 pH, or would the calcium carbonate possibly conflict with it or override it? And also, even if the two can be used together and maintain the 5.2 pH, could adding both of these substances start to negatively affect flavor?

captaineriv

​

I really don't think so. IIRC, hardness and pH are two separate items. So, adding calcium carbonate and 5.2 pH should work fine.

BTW, good luck tomorrow on your first AG! You'll never look back!

 

[captaineriv]

Sounds great, Rhoobarb. Thanks for sending the good luck. I'm actually going to do it on Sunday instead of tomorrow because the weather looks nicer, but I'll post a follow-up in this thread as to how it went.

captaineriv

 

[The Skipper]

Where are you guys buying your 5.2? I haven't seen it at my local hbs's.

 

[Rhoobarb]

My LHBS carries it. But I've seen it online. For instance, here. One cannister will last quite awhile!

 

[captaineriv]

$9.95 plus shipping at www.northernbrewer.com

captaineriv
​

 

[motobrewer]

thread revival!

says "1 T per 5gal in the brew."

so, i'm mashing in with 2.5gallon - should i add 1/2 tablespoon? then add the other 1/2 in the boil? or add the full T in the mash??

 

[Beerrific]

What is your final volume? Use the amount for your final volume in the mash.

 

[motobrewer]

5g is my final. i used 1.5 tsp in the mash, i'm gonna use another 1.5 tsp in the sparge.

 

[MajorTom]

I don't understand why they don't put clear instructions on 5.2. It is very non-specific. "1lb/5 gal in your brew" "5 gal leaving kettle use one tbl"

Final volume? What kettle? Why not give specific instructions?

 

[jamest22]

I used to use 5.2. I added the full tablespoon directly to the mash and stirred it in good.

However, I now adjust my mash using salts based on John Palmer's mash/water spreadsheet: http://howtobrew.com/section3/Palmers_Mash_RA_ver2e.xls

You do have to get a water analysis report done from Ward Labs but once you do that and figure out the spreadheet your mash pH will hit in the desired range without using the 5.2 stabilizer. Its cheaper and it gives you way more control over the beer by allowing for things like adjustment for maltiness and hoppiness through chloride and sulfate adjustments.

 

[Beerrific]

I don't understand why they don't put clear instructions on 5.2. It is very non-specific. "1lb/5 gal in your brew" "5 gal leaving kettle use one tbl"

Final volume? What kettle? Why not give specific instructions?

It is 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons of final volume. I think they use this rate as anything over this might start to reach a flavor threshold.

 

[joety]

It is 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons of final volume. I think they use this rate as anything over this might start to reach a flavor threshold.

That sounds right. I fly sparge and Beersmith tells me to use 1.28 TBSP of 5.2. I basically just pitch a rounded tablespoon into my mash tun just before adding the strike water.

 

[7b46]

found this helpful:

Never worry about Ph again! One tablespoon of 5.2 per 5 gallon batch and your water is instantly adjusted to the perfect ph of 5.2, no matter what your starting ph was. It will not add any flavors to your mash water whatsoever. 5.2 optimizes the enzymatic activity of your malt, helps to clarify the wort, and may even help to raise your starting gravities. Also, using 5.2 in the boil will give you more consistent hop usage, and will also keep hard water salts in solution, which will result in less scaling in your heat exchangers, fermenters, and kegs. If you are doing all-grain you add it to your mash water - 1 tblsp per 5 gallon batch regardless of mash water volume. You do not need to add any extra to your Hot-Liqour tank or Boil Kettle.

 

[weirdboy]

I used to use 5.2. I added the full tablespoon directly to the mash and stirred it in good.

However, I now adjust my mash using salts based on John Palmer's mash/water spreadsheet: http://howtobrew.com/section3/Palmers_Mash_RA_ver2e.xls

You do have to get a water analysis report done from Ward Labs but once you do that and figure out the spreadheet your mash pH will hit in the desired range without using the 5.2 stabilizer. Its cheaper and it gives you way more control over the beer by allowing for things like adjustment for maltiness and hoppiness through chloride and sulfate adjustments.

Well you do need an appropriate scale to measure out the salts, too.

 

[Ricand]

It's a buffer, so more or less per volume of water is just more or less buffering. As long you put in enough to buffer the pH variance, then you should be OK. I use two tablespoons in my total water, normally around 15 gal total. I brew on a Brutus so I have the total strike and sparge water in keggles. Seems to work great for me.

 

[jamest22]

Well you do need an appropriate scale to measure out the salts, too.

That's true, you do need a god scale. Palmer's book does have a gram to teaspoon conversion chart for the major brewing salts, but a scale is much better.. I picked up a good digital scale that measures 100ths of ounces and grams at Harbor Freight for $15.

Also, when I used 5.2 I never realized any increased efficiency.

 

[Denny]

Also, when I used 5.2 I never realized any increased efficiency.

Same here. Plus, it only got my pH into the correct range less than 50% of the time.