Hoosierbilly
Well-Known Member
$1000 firm
Included is a 3 keggle eherms 120v brewery with two 2000w elements, BCS-460, two new SSRs, new temp cables, two march pumps, and a Blichmann therminator. Two 2000 watt elements are needed for the HLT.
The reason I am selling is because I had both a 2bbl brewery and this 12gal brewery that I had been using depending on how much I wanted to brew and I decided to go with one setup for all brewing. I have sold my 2bbl stout tank brewery and now use a 1bbl stout tank brewery for everything, now getting around to selling this 12gal setup. The keggles are AB kegs. The HLT (far left) is powered by two 2000w 120v heating elements and has a temp sensor on the output valve and a 1/2"x50' stainless steel heat exchange coil. http://www.stainlessbrewing.com/HERM...-304_p_30.html
The MT (in the middle) has the brewhardware hinged false bottom and dip tube and has a temp sensor on the output valve as well as one on the input valve. http://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/fb15hh.htm
The BK is powered by two 2000w 120v elements and has a temp sensor on the output valve, a place for a 1/2" threaded fitting, and a 1.5" triclamp fitting.
The heating elements on the HLT are weldless with the locknut on the inside that gets tightened down, the elements on the BK screw into the kegs, I had the lock nuts welded onto the outside of the kegs so the elements simply screw in and unscrew from the kegs and grounding bolts are present in in the keg skirts. I had been leaving the HLT elements installed since only water was coming in contact and then storing inside, I have recently stored these in my garage and now notice rust on the elements so two 2000 watt elements are needed for the HLT. If I were keeping this setup I would have the locknuts welded onto the outside of the HLT as they are on the BK for easier install/removal after brewing. The elements for the BK are in good shape with no rust because these were taken out, cleaned, and stored inside after each brew.
The HLT and MT are on their own wooden base and the BK is on its own wooden base. I use two march pumps with polysulfone heads (both included) in this setup, one to continuously recirculate the HLT and one to continuously recirculate the mash. For the boil I move one pump over to the wooden stand that holds the BK and this pump was used to recirculate through a counterflow chiller until the output temp of the BK is down to pitching temps. I used a counterflow chiller which I am not selling, I am using this on my new rig but I am including a Blichmann Therminator.
With my design there are a few ways the water and wort can be routed. During the mash the water simply recirculates out of the bottom of the HLT and back into the top, while the mash recirculates out of the bottom of the MT, through the coil in the HLT, and then back into the top of the MT. I then batch sparge by draining the MT into the BK. Then instead of the water pumping into the top of the HLT it is routed into the bottom of the heat exchange coil, through the coil, and into the top of the MT to fill the MT back up with new sparge water. By doing this it cleans any wort out of the heat exchance coil with hot water. The mash is then recirculated for about 10 minutes, during this the valves to the heat exchange coil are closed and the wort bypasses the coil and gets pumped right back into the MT. This keeps the heat exchange coil clean and avoids further temp loss since the coil isn't submerged in water at this point. After about 10 min of recirculation this is then drained into the BK and it is ready to boil.
This setup can be operated manualy by turning the pumps and elements on and off by hand, I use the switch on surge protectors for this. This can also be operated and temps monitored using the BCS-460. The BCS-460, SSR's, temp sensor cables, and temp cable extensions are all included to be used in a basic control box. The control box I was using was parted out and I don't have it anymore. All four temp sensors are 1/2" threads and can be swapped with thermometers to use without the BCS-460 to monitor temps.
Also included are the pump heads and fittings (not shown in the pics). I am not wanting to part out the brewery but I would sell the brewery. Located in Muncie,IN.
If I were keeping this I would add a 3rd pump and have the locknuts welded onto the outside of the HLT for convenience.
Good luck,
Cheers
Included is a 3 keggle eherms 120v brewery with two 2000w elements, BCS-460, two new SSRs, new temp cables, two march pumps, and a Blichmann therminator. Two 2000 watt elements are needed for the HLT.
The reason I am selling is because I had both a 2bbl brewery and this 12gal brewery that I had been using depending on how much I wanted to brew and I decided to go with one setup for all brewing. I have sold my 2bbl stout tank brewery and now use a 1bbl stout tank brewery for everything, now getting around to selling this 12gal setup. The keggles are AB kegs. The HLT (far left) is powered by two 2000w 120v heating elements and has a temp sensor on the output valve and a 1/2"x50' stainless steel heat exchange coil. http://www.stainlessbrewing.com/HERM...-304_p_30.html
The MT (in the middle) has the brewhardware hinged false bottom and dip tube and has a temp sensor on the output valve as well as one on the input valve. http://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/fb15hh.htm
The BK is powered by two 2000w 120v elements and has a temp sensor on the output valve, a place for a 1/2" threaded fitting, and a 1.5" triclamp fitting.
The heating elements on the HLT are weldless with the locknut on the inside that gets tightened down, the elements on the BK screw into the kegs, I had the lock nuts welded onto the outside of the kegs so the elements simply screw in and unscrew from the kegs and grounding bolts are present in in the keg skirts. I had been leaving the HLT elements installed since only water was coming in contact and then storing inside, I have recently stored these in my garage and now notice rust on the elements so two 2000 watt elements are needed for the HLT. If I were keeping this setup I would have the locknuts welded onto the outside of the HLT as they are on the BK for easier install/removal after brewing. The elements for the BK are in good shape with no rust because these were taken out, cleaned, and stored inside after each brew.
The HLT and MT are on their own wooden base and the BK is on its own wooden base. I use two march pumps with polysulfone heads (both included) in this setup, one to continuously recirculate the HLT and one to continuously recirculate the mash. For the boil I move one pump over to the wooden stand that holds the BK and this pump was used to recirculate through a counterflow chiller until the output temp of the BK is down to pitching temps. I used a counterflow chiller which I am not selling, I am using this on my new rig but I am including a Blichmann Therminator.
With my design there are a few ways the water and wort can be routed. During the mash the water simply recirculates out of the bottom of the HLT and back into the top, while the mash recirculates out of the bottom of the MT, through the coil in the HLT, and then back into the top of the MT. I then batch sparge by draining the MT into the BK. Then instead of the water pumping into the top of the HLT it is routed into the bottom of the heat exchange coil, through the coil, and into the top of the MT to fill the MT back up with new sparge water. By doing this it cleans any wort out of the heat exchance coil with hot water. The mash is then recirculated for about 10 minutes, during this the valves to the heat exchange coil are closed and the wort bypasses the coil and gets pumped right back into the MT. This keeps the heat exchange coil clean and avoids further temp loss since the coil isn't submerged in water at this point. After about 10 min of recirculation this is then drained into the BK and it is ready to boil.
This setup can be operated manualy by turning the pumps and elements on and off by hand, I use the switch on surge protectors for this. This can also be operated and temps monitored using the BCS-460. The BCS-460, SSR's, temp sensor cables, and temp cable extensions are all included to be used in a basic control box. The control box I was using was parted out and I don't have it anymore. All four temp sensors are 1/2" threads and can be swapped with thermometers to use without the BCS-460 to monitor temps.
Also included are the pump heads and fittings (not shown in the pics). I am not wanting to part out the brewery but I would sell the brewery. Located in Muncie,IN.
If I were keeping this I would add a 3rd pump and have the locknuts welded onto the outside of the HLT for convenience.
Good luck,
Cheers
