220V eBIAB Design - Wiring Diagram Review

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morbster

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Hello,

I'm currently building my first electric setup and am requesting a second set of eyes to look at my wiring diagram, which is a modified version of one of doug293cz's diagrams.

I will use an Auber DSPR300 to control a 5500W element, and I have two main questions based on the diagram:

- Is my Element Firing Lamp shown correctly? As it currently is shown, I will have one lamp indicating when the heating element contactor is powered, and when the element is actually firing. Would a 110V pilot lamp work in this setup?

- The DSPR300 has two alarm relays (terminals 1/2 and 13/14), and I would like the two to share an alarm buzzer and switch. Does this wiring look correct?

- If there any glaring issues or silly items, feel free to let me know.

Thanks for all the help.

WNUUgJh.jpg
 
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morbster

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Going to bump once, but I have tweaked the diagram to have the element firing lamp across 240v supply to the heating element.

EifOUC6.jpg


Will try wiring this up over the weekend and will post my results. Hopefully there's no smoke!
 
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morbster

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So I lied, I'm actually going to make one more post. @doug293cz was kind enough to review my diagram and provided excellent feedback, and I wanted to include the latest version of my diagram. The only thing that has changed is the alarm wiring.

Thanks doug!

cOQZlw4.png
 

doug293cz

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Curious what are the contactors for?

Most panel switches can't handle the 23A load of a 5500W @ 240V element. The contactors are just high current relays that can be controlled by lower current switches.

It would be possible to use something like a Leviton 3032 switch instead of the switch + contactor combo used in this design. However, the 3032 is the size of a standard wall switch, and is kind of ugly. Which to use is a choice for the builder to make. The 3032 is also not shielded against splashing.

Contactors must be used if you want to do computer control of switching, or if you want to do any kind of safety or error prevention interlocking (like preventing turning on the main power if any of the element or pump switches is on, or preventing a RIMS element from being turned on if the pump is off, etc.)

Brew on :mug:
 
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morbster

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I was following Kal's electric brewery build, and I think it was just because the double pole is more common at this size.
 

shadow160

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Thanks I wanted to be sure I was not missing anything as I am in the beginning of planning my panel.
 

doug293cz

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Why the DPDT switches when only one leg is being used?
Long time to reply, but I'll do it anyway. The switches are DPST, not DPDT. Often the kind of switches used in control panels just come standard as DPST. But, a really good reason for using DPST switches is that they allow you to implement a "safe start" interlock that prevents main power from being turned on unless all pump and element switches are off. Prevents nasty surprises on start up. The schematic below shows how this kind of safe start interlock is implemented.

DSPR300 1-Pump 1-Element 240V rev-2.PNG


Brew on :mug:
 

doug293cz

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You do know that the DSPR series of controllers have an alarm "beeper" built in right? Did you not know that or are you looking for something louder?
I usually leave out the external alarms when designing with EZBoils, but will include them if I can't talk the requester out of them. Same with e-stops (as long as there is already a switch that kills all power internally.)

Brew on :mug:
 
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