2 Ventilation Questions for Indoor Electric Brewing

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andy6026

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Hello everyone!

I'm looking at moving indoors to an electric setup, using the 3-kettle system. I plan on doing 5-10 gallon batches with my boil kettle being 15 or 20 gallons (still undecided). Most photos of indoor setups that I've seen feature custom designed vent hoods that typically are large enough to span across all three kettles (probably 60+ inches). However, I've also seen the odd comment that this is unnecessary and even potentially undesirable as you may get less power over the brew kettle by having a larger/wider vent.

In your experience, is it better to have the vent hood cover all 3 kettles, or just the boil kettle?

Also, another question if I may: My basement also has a gas furnace, gas water heater, and gas powered clothes dryer. How important is it that I create a second air-intake vent, or am I fine with simply keeping a window in the basement open using the vent?

Thanks for sharing your experience and expertise.
 
If it were me, I would just put it over the boil kettle, or go without and mount your exhaust fan right in the window. I brew indoors in my kitchen. I don't have a vent hood. I do run a fan and sometimes open the door to keep the air moving and get some ventilation. If I don't, then in the warmer months I will have water condensing on the walls.

As far as your basement question, I used to make custom forged knives, pens, and jewelry. I had everything in the basement including the propane forge. I had a large blower in the forge room window to vent the heat and any fumes. All I would do is open another window in the basement (as you mentioned) when the exhaust blower was running so I wouldn't create an issue with air balance. I also have a gas furnace, gas water heater, and gas powered clothes dryer and never had an issue with pulling air through those appliances. Well, not that I know of, but I also have a 110 year old house that lets in plenty of fresh air all on its own. :)
 
I would go across all 3, and make sure the drip tray on the inside is not over any of your kettles. Double check to make sure that if there are corners, they are not over anything as well, you don't want the hood low, it should be high enough to not matter, at the pot level, steam should be gently pulled towards it. not rushing towards it. If you do one large hood, you can have the blower assembly at the farthest point away from your boil kettle. You just don't want that steam soaking moisture into your walls, and ceiling, etc.

as far as intake, open a window, but you are not sealed up enough to matter, but sure, open a window if you wish. the gas dryer should be using it's own output, the furnace and water heater may share, but you should not be tapping into that. (for the escape of their exhaust gasses.
 
The boil kettle creates the majority of the moisture. If you vent that, you're good. You really don't have to move a lot of air as long as your pick up is efficient and return air is matched. Return air is most important IMO. If you're are trying to pull a vacuum, it doesn't matter the size of your fan, it won't work.
 
Personally, I have the vent over the boil kettle only. Part of this reason, I got a free range hood that I was able to attach my vent fan to. This hood was only large enough to really cover the boil kettle. I did luck out in the fact that I have my basement window directly above my vent. When I brew, I open the basement window and pipe the moisture outside.
 
I don't have a hood over the kettle, just a window fan in a window behind the kettle. I also have a small desk top type fan pointed upwards to mix the room air and break up steam at the ceiling. Fans move a lot of air and ventilate the basement brewery very well, sure there is a minor humidity increase during the boil, but this is ventilated within 10-20 minutes after flame out. I prefer this for simplicity, as using a hood most often results in condensation and dealing with that issue.

IMO, it's only steam, its very easy to blow air out the window and keep the steam in check within the room.

Like most things homebrewing, lots of folks overdue what's needed. If doing a hood, I suspect you need a very powerful unit to avoid condensation and the hassle that brings.
 
Thanks to everyone for the very thoughtful replies. I still have yet to decide on my ideal set-up and will take some time to mull over this and other information. If anyone else has advice or experience they'd like to share I'd certainly like to hear it... also importantly what you've done, what works well, and what you wish you had have done better. Thanks again!
 
I have an electric setup in my basement, and just completed my first brew today in the new space (been brewing for years, but a major flood in the basement resulted in major repairs, and therefore a brand new brewery space!)
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as you can see, my vent hood is diy, made from rigid insulation panels, skinned in 1/8" oak, and is centered over the boil kettle. My width of hood was limited by the length between by basement windows, but the system works awesome!
I use a 6" s-series vortex fan, and have no issues with moisture, despite that fact that my vent hood is mostly over the boil kettle. The HLT is on the left, and the MLT on the right, and neither create enough vapour to warrant being covered under the hood.
The massive 6' wide condensation hoods are sexy as hell, but if you focus on what is actually creating the water vapor, and have the appropriate sized exhaust fan, you'll be fine.
 
My .02 If you do one.. You really only need it over the boil kettle. Mine is full width purely for asthetics. In fact i added a styrofoam divider in the hood to create a smaller space so the fan is more efficient. Mine is built from wood and skinned on 3 sides with stainless sheet, glued on with car windshield urethane. The inside is sealed of course. My ducting slopes slightly away from the hood and a small hole in the duct drips in the adjacent sink.

Brian
 
My "hood" is a plastic storage tote screwed to the rafters in my basement, with the fan ducted into the side of it. It covers my boil kettle only, as my other vessels are coolers operated with lids on. Total cost*, about $15 for the tote and a plastic duct flange fitting, and about 20 minutes to make.

* in addition to the fan and duct run.
 
Ok, I have wondered how necessary that ventilation truly is. I wasn't planning on putting any fan in my upcoming electric brewing but my basement will be unfinished and I will be probably running a dehumidifier down there anyways. I figure I could always open the door going to the garage to help vent if need be but figured I would just ask anyways. You have to figure you are adding a gallon of water to the surrounding air which I feel like would be a bigger difference if the room were really small but I am looking at like a 1800 sq foot basement thats open.

Also, whenever I brewed on my stovetop I never ran a fan and never had issues.
 
Ok, I have wondered how necessary that ventilation truly is. I wasn't planning on putting any fan in my upcoming electric brewing but my basement will be unfinished
and I will be probably running a dehumidifier down there anyways. I figure I could always open the door going to the garage to help vent if need be but figured I would just ask anyways. You have to figure you are adding a gallon of water to the surrounding air which I feel like would be a bigger difference if the room were really small but I am looking at like a 1800 sq foot basement thats open.



Also, whenever I brewed on my stovetop I never ran a fan and never had issues.


I think your going to see a need for some ventilation, even very basic ventilation makes a huge difference. A couple times I have been a bit lax and noticed a cloud of steam up near my basement ceiling before setting up my window fan exhaust vent.

A small fan that moves the room air to prevent condensation at the ceiling, and also some exhaust or fresh air intake is a good simple idea. I owned the two fans so it was just T+E, but I don't feel the need for a hood. If I was brewing more often, a hood might be worth it, but I find it just too easy to create a little breeze in the basement.

Most brewers put out more than a gallon of boil off unless doing rather small batches.
 
First time i brewed in the basement was a nice cold January morning. my ventilation was insufficient and it ended up 'raining' from the floor joists. Huge stinky mess.

My freshly painted white foundation walls also turned piss yellow permanently from the condensed liquid dripping down.
 
We have brewed indoors for about 7 years and tried several different ventilation approaches. Our current and favorite is a cone made of stainless sheet metal that connects directly to 6 inch duct pipe and vents or the wall via a vortex vent fan. The cone hood is about 2 inches bigger in diameter than our boil pot and hangs about 12 inches above the top. We have had no need for a vent fan above the other two kettles (we do keep a lid on the sparge water/ hot liquor tank).

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We have brewed indoors for about 7 years and tried several different ventilation approaches. Our current and favorite is a cone made of stainless sheet metal that connects directly to 6 inch duct pipe and vents or the wall via a vortex vent fan. The cone hood is about 2 inches bigger in diameter than our boil pot and hangs about 12 inches above the top. We have had no need for a vent fan above the other two kettles (we do keep a lid on the sparge water/ hot liquor tank).

E-Brewing, can I ask where you got that cone from? It looks like you may have custom built it yourself. How thick is the sheet metal? Do you get any condensation dripping back down? Thanks very much!
 
I have custom made stainless steel condensation hood that spans the full width of the brew table over all three pots almost identical to how Kal's is set up. I figured if I was going to do it, go big or go home. I have absolutely NO ISSUE with condensation in my 20x30 brew room. Ever.
 
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