1500w 240v stainless steel element (including base)

[miahpage]

Is anybody stocking a 1500w 240v stainless steel element which includes a stainless steel base at a decent price? I see that BrewHardware.com is now stocking a 120v version but I need 240v. I have seen a couple but they are several hundred dollars.

Having a 240v version will allow me to run both a 4500w 240v kettle and a 1500w 240v RIMS tube at the same time on a 30 amp system. Given that this combination of elements will allow a person to heat both elements on 30 amps I'm surprised that I don't see this combination more.

 

[jeffmeh]

If you also have a 120v circuit, you could run the 5500w 240v element at 120v, 1375w.

 

[P-J]

Try this one:

Rheem SP10869FH Element - 240V/1500W Stainless Steel
http://bostonheatingsupply.com/SP10869FH.aspx

Hope this helps you.

P-J

 

[miahpage]

Thanks for the quick responses.

Jeffmeh- I'm building a control box with two PIDs, one for the RIMS and one for the BK so want to run both elements through the 30 amp circuit.

PJ - I was under the impression that the base of the Rheem elements are not stainless steel so extra precautions such as silicone need to be used to prevent rust. Silicone might be an option but I would prefer something with all stainless.

 

[P-J]

Thanks for the quick responses.

Jeffmeh- I'm building a control box with two PIDs, one for the RIMS and one for the BK so want to run both elements through the 30 amp circuit.

PJ - I was under the impression that the base of the Rheem elements are not stainless steel so extra precautions such as silicone need to be used to prevent rust. Silicone might be an option but I would prefer something with all stainless.

The one I linked is Stainless Steel for all of the components that would be in contact with water.

P-J

 

[miahpage]

The linked element is a medium watt density. That makes me a little concerned about scorching in a RIMS tube.

 

[jeffmeh]

If you have 4 wire power (hhng), then you can safely derive a 120v circuit between one h and n.

 

[P-J]

The linked element is a medium watt density. That makes me a little concerned about scorching in a RIMS tube.

Oh well... I tried.

BTW: With decent flow in a RIMS there is NO possibility for your concerned.

Oh Well. I tried to help. I'm Done!

P-J

 

[miahpage]

Oh well... I tried.

BTW: With decent flow in a RIMS there is NO possibility for your concerned.

Oh Well. I tried to help. I'm Done!

P-J

WOW P-J.

Thanks for encouraging me to not participate in this forum. I brought up a valid concern. Your response makes it sounds like me or somebody else on this thread personally attacked you. That did not happen. You're being overly sensitive. A forum is about questions and discussion.

How can you say that there are NO issues with scorching? Are we reading the same forum? Other members have had issues with MWD elements scorching their lighter beers so this is a valid concern. It is misleading to tell people otherwise.

 

[KevinP]

RIMS vs HERMS, scorching is why I went with HERMS. From what I have read it isn't only an issue for lighter beers. Scorching comes with flavor problems for all color of beers.
Thinking out loud here, I wonder if a flow switch could be used to turn off the RIMS element in the event of insufficient flow...

 

[miahpage]

RIMS vs HERMS, scorching is why I went with HERMS. From what I have read it isn't only an issue for lighter beers. Scorching comes with flavor problems for all color of beers.
Thinking out loud here, I wonder if a flow switch could be used to turn off the RIMS element in the event of insufficient flow...

There are definitely trade offs to both systems, RIMS vs HERMS. Unfortunately I do not have the space to build a three vessel HERMS for brewing. This is what led me to work on a two vessel RIMS system.

Using a flow switch as a failsafe on the RIMS tube seems like an option that needs to be considered. I wish it was easier to obtain LDW elements that were stainless steel and 1500W/240V.

 

[augiedoggy]

RIMS vs HERMS, scorching is why I went with HERMS. From what I have read it isn't only an issue for lighter beers. Scorching comes with flavor problems for all color of beers.
Thinking out loud here, I wonder if a flow switch could be used to turn off the RIMS element in the event of insufficient flow...

YES... thats exactly what I do in my system... I use a $10 stainless flow switch to kill my rims element if the flow stops (which it never has except when I accidentally turn off the pump and forgot to kill the element.

details are in my build thread below but I use a long ULWD stainless cartridge heater and theres absolutely no scorching going on here...

 

[augiedoggy]

There are definitely trade offs to both systems, RIMS vs HERMS. Unfortunately I do not have the space to build a three vessel HERMS for brewing. This is what led me to work on a two vessel RIMS system.

Using a flow switch as a failsafe on the RIMS tube seems like an option that needs to be considered. I wish it was easier to obtain LDW elements that were stainless steel and 1500W/240V.

It is easy to find them! Search for a cartridge heater.... I use a 25" long 1/2" diameter stainless cartridge heater thats 1000w at 240v and I picked it up for $30 and mounted it in a compression fitting for mounting in the rims tube. the heaters come in an almost endless supply of wattage and sizes..

As far as scorching... its all depends on the amount of flow you have as well as the amount of solids in your wort as well as the intensity (or watt density) of the heat coming off of your element... if your pid is setup right with correct sensor placement the element should never be on long enough for scorching to be a concern...I had it happen in my old setup due to an improperly designed rims tube with an area with very little flow and a narrow space where particulates got stuck and scorched.

 

[Ppeg34]

WOW P-J.

Thanks for encouraging me to not participate in this forum. I brought up a valid concern. Your response makes it sounds like me or somebody else on this thread personally attacked you. That did not happen. You're being overly sensitive. A forum is about questions and discussion.

How can you say that there are NO issues with scorching? Are we reading the same forum? Other members have had issues with MWD elements scorching their lighter beers so this is a valid concern. It is misleading to tell people otherwise.

I haven't posted on here in a long time, but I just have to say PJ has probably helped more people with his seriously in-depth knowledge of brewing than you have met in your life. He was just trying to help you too.

Are we reading the same forum? Because if we were you would see that his generosity is well-documented.

That is all.

 

[KevinP]

YES... thats exactly what I do in my system... I use a $10 stainless flow switch to kill my rims element if the flow stops (which it never has except when I accidentally turn off the pump and forgot to kill the element.

details are in my build thread below but I use a long ULWD stainless cartridge heater and theres absolutely no scorching going on here...

I love your system augiedoggy. A couple questions that may be useful to OP here. What kind of temperature ramp times do you see with that 1000 watt heater? And how is that flow switch wired in? Sorry if these are covered in your thread.

 

[augiedoggy]

I haven't posted on here in a long time, but I just have to say PJ has probably helped more people with his seriously in-depth knowledge of brewing than you have met in your life. He was just trying to help you too.

Are we reading the same forum? Because if we were you would see that his generosity is well-documented.

That is all.

No one is doubting that. We know he is an asset to this community, but it doesnt change the fact that he acts over sensitive and snaps at people very quickly for no good reason. He seems to take things personal whenever his word isn't immediately taken as gospel without someone asking for additional additional feedback or information.

I dont care how helpful a person is, I dont see how it justifies everyone looking the other way and excepting this behavior as normal. This gets brought up every time he acts this way and people always defend him siting how helpful he is. The truth is thats unrelated to his behavior and we are not doing him or anyone else here any favors by ignoring it every time is happens. People tell me all the time when I've gone too far or they believe im wrong and I usually take it as constructive criticism.... Sometimes I see thier point and sometimes I just disagree. I do see that I am too opinionated and catch myself overdoing it all the time. But If I give someone advice or try to answer thier question and they still have concerns and ask the forum for more feedback, I dont scold them like they are my 5 year old son whos not listening to me...

The fact is we are here for discussion and not to dictate or talk down to one another... More feedback from more people with experience is always helpful than just one opinion, especially when one has no knowledge of what that persons opinion is based on.

If we all just always excepted whatever some guy on the internet told us without question we would be in bad shape... Everyone is wrong at some point in thier lives and the answers are not always clear cut...(There is more than one way to skin a cat)

I mean no disrespect to you PJ I'm only suggesting we give the same respect to others as we expect to get. You once blew up on me because I answered one of your questions about the forum layout not displaying correctly on your screen in a "matter of fact" manner and you took it personal...I was rude and apologized. At the time my comments came out the way they did because I knew the reasons for your display problems and felt my explanation was being ignored, Dont you think others would be offended when you do the same to them?

 

[augiedoggy]

I love your system augiedoggy. A couple questions that may be useful to OP here. What kind of temperature ramp times do you see with that 1000 watt heater? And how is that flow switch wired in? Sorry if these are covered in your thread.

I only see about 2 degrees rise every minute. However I have no concerns about scorching or denaturing enzymes... I dont get any discolored buildup on my element which helps assure me of that.
the flow switch is a simple on off switch which I wire between my pid and ssr by taping into the 24v ssr switching wire. I use an xlr connector on my panel to plug it in or disconnect it.

I have a float switch in my HLT which is wired the same way and kills my element if the water level reaches the height of the element when draining.