10 Gallon Keg

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Topher79

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A fellow hombrewer who is getting too old to brew gave me this keg a couple of days ago, and I have a question...

Would it be feasible to to use this for 5 gallon batches, or would I be wasting a lot of Co2 due to the large head space?

I'm new to kegging (ordering the parts to get a kegerator going), and could use some help/tips/advice.

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jlb307

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i think it's feasible. you will go through a fair amount of CO2 while purging since you're going to have so much headspace. of course, that all depends on how crazy you go purging anyway.
i have a friend who uses a 5 gallon keg even for his 2 1/2 or 3 gallon batches. he doesn't change his purge method at all, and he's never had any hints of his brews being oxidized. i guess he figures even if there is a little air left in, fill it slow, don't slosh it around, and a CO2 blanket is a CO2 blanket.

Good Luck!
 

smakudwn

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If you are never going to use this for 10 gallons, you might think about selling it and buying a couple 5 gallon kegs.
 
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Topher79

Topher79

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I would like to use it for 10 gallons eventually. Right now I only have (1) 6.5 gallon carboy, and (2) 5 gallon carboys. I was thinking of using the keg as a primary for a 10 gallon batch by adding an airlock, and then using the (2) 5 gal carboys for secondaries, then transferring back to the keg when fermentation is complete.

I know these 10 gallons aren't that easy to come by, so I'd like to keep it.
 

BBBF

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I'd love to ferment in that think and then use CO2 to transfer right to 5 gallon kegs, never letting my beer touch oxygen.
 

s.g.brown

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I recently picked up 2 of these exact kegs, Cornelius Model 1896 and was looking for more information about them. I want to replace all the rings and gaskets but am having a hard time finding parts. The posts and beverage dip tube can be completely removed. When they're removed, there's nothing but 2 holes in the top of the keg. They both attach via a bulkhead fitting. To remove them you must stick a wrench inside the tank.

Does anyone know where I can find the gaskets/rings for these?

Any information about these would be appreciated - Thanks!!!!!


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OpenSights

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I’m jealous! I can brew a 10 gallon batch, but will need two kegs for one batch.
 

BBBF

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I'd love to ferment in that think and then use CO2 to transfer right to 5 gallon kegs, never letting my beer touch oxygen.
LOL, years later and I have a 10 gallon corny to ferment in, but I've never done this.

I haven't seen seen that exact setup, but it's similar to a 1.75L keg I have that part meant for an eyewash station. I don't think there is anything special about those orings. You should be able to go to a hardware store and find replacements.

Another option would be to solder these post adapters to the kegs and replace the diptube and posts.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/kegpostweld.htm
 

mongoose33

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i think it's feasible. you will go through a fair amount of CO2 while purging since you're going to have so much headspace. of course, that all depends on how crazy you go purging anyway.
i have a friend who uses a 5 gallon keg even for his 2 1/2 or 3 gallon batches. he doesn't change his purge method at all, and he's never had any hints of his brews being oxidized. i guess he figures even if there is a little air left in, fill it slow, don't slosh it around, and a CO2 blanket is a CO2 blanket.

Good Luck!
Actually, the CO2 blanket thing is sort of a myth.

There's a way to purge that costs no CO2 from a tank, and that's to run the CO2 produced during fermentation through the keg. Purge it once or twice using tank CO2 to get it going, then run the fermentation gases through it.

Every 2 gravity points produces about 1 volume of CO2, meaning a 1.060 fermentation that finishes at 1.010 will produce about 25 volumes. Run that into the OUT post of the keg, open the PRV, and you're good.
 

s.g.brown

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LOL, years later and I have a 10 gallon corny to ferment in, but I've never done this.

I haven't seen seen that exact setup, but it's similar to a 1.75L keg I have that part meant for an eyewash station. I don't think there is anything special about those orings. You should be able to go to a hardware store and find replacements.

Another option would be to solder these post adapters to the kegs and replace the diptube and posts.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/kegpostweld.htm
Thanks for this suggestion - so glad i asked. I really like the idea of soldering the keg post adapters.
Looks like I have options. I was also considering replacing the post and dip tube with this guy:
https://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/Bal...quid_19_32_p/ball-lock-1-4in-liq-bulkhead.htm

Anway - thanks for the advice.
SB
 

ListerH

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Every 2 gravity points produces about 1 volume of CO2, meaning a 1.060 fermentation that finishes at 1.010 will produce about 25 volumes. Run that into the OUT post of the keg, open the PRV, and you're good.
I actually don't know why I never thought of doing this... get my keg washed and sanitized earlier in my process, purge it with CO2 from the fermenter and have it ready for transfer when my fermentation is done.

Such a simple thing but like I said, I had never thought about it. Thanks for sharing!
 

s.g.brown

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BBBF

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however I'm starting to think there will still be financial repercussions. Thanks again.
I'm good at spending other people's money on brew gear, but because this thread got bumped up, I found another 10 gallon corny that was too cheap to pass up. What goes around comes around...
 

chrisp

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I have a pair of these Model 1896 kegs and would like to ferment in them. Has anyone had luck finding o-rings or have had success with the solutions mentioned above?
 

s.g.brown

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I have a pair of these Model 1896 kegs and would like to ferment in them. Has anyone had luck finding o-rings or have had success with the solutions mentioned above?
I'm happy to report I've had several successful batches fermenting in them! It worked great. I'm currently at work but I'll try and update tomorrow with the rings/parts I've used. I'll try and get some pics too.
 

50calshooter

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I use 1/4 barrels for five gallon batches all the time. never a problem.
 

s.g.brown

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I have a pair of these Model 1896 kegs and would like to ferment in them. Has anyone had luck finding o-rings or have had success with the solutions mentioned above?
@chrisp Most of the rings on the post assembly are pretty simple, so I didn't include info about them here. I only included details on the ones that I had the most challenge with. Here we go...I hope you like pictures.

1182N115 was purchased as a 10-pack from McMasterCarr. These guys are incredible.
https://www.mcmaster.com/1182n115

The Flaretite Seal was purchased at a place called New-Line Hose and Fittings.
https://www.new-line.com/

Here's a picture of the two parts that were hard to find. The black rings are the originals and the numbers are what I used to replace them.
upload_2019-9-22_11-18-40.png


Here's the replacement for the 'bulkhead' o-ring. This ring forms the seal on the inside of the tank.
upload_2019-9-22_11-19-39.png


And here's what it looks like when in place.
upload_2019-9-22_11-20-10.png


The seal that goes inside gave me a really hard time. This is the one labelled as the "flaretite" seal.
This one is more of a semi-permanent installation. If you ever remove the assembly, you'd need to replace this part. This is because when it is tightened into place, I think it partially crushes to form the seal. That said, it seems to hold pressure well. That said, they're not cheap and kind of hard to find (for me anyway). They were $20 for a 4-pack.

upload_2019-9-22_11-21-25.png


Just to make things more simple (in theory anyway), for my second tank I'm still considering ditching the existing assembly and trying the set-up mentioned above and giving these a shot --> https://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/Bal...quid_19_32_p/ball-lock-1-4in-liq-bulkhead.htm

Good luck and let us know how you eventually get yourself set-up. These tanks are great once you get them "up and running".
SB
 

s.g.brown

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Be careful - that amazon item doesn't look like it will accommodate a dip tube. That would be fine for the gas side, but not the beverage side.
 

chrisp

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Thanks. I already have a dip tube. I'm not sure if the Amazon adapter will seal properly.
 

chrisp

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@chrisp Most of the rings on the post assembly are pretty simple, so I didn't include info about them here. I only included details on the ones that I had the most challenge with. Here we go...I hope you like pictures.

1182N115 was purchased as a 10-pack from McMasterCarr. These guys are incredible.
https://www.mcmaster.com/1182n115

The Flaretite Seal was purchased at a place called New-Line Hose and Fittings.
https://www.new-line.com/

Here's a picture of the two parts that were hard to find. The black rings are the originals and the numbers are what I used to replace them.
View attachment 645330

Here's the replacement for the 'bulkhead' o-ring. This ring forms the seal on the inside of the tank.
View attachment 645331

And here's what it looks like when in place.
View attachment 645332

The seal that goes inside gave me a really hard time. This is the one labelled as the "flaretite" seal.
This one is more of a semi-permanent installation. If you ever remove the assembly, you'd need to replace this part. This is because when it is tightened into place, I think it partially crushes to form the seal. That said, it seems to hold pressure well. That said, they're not cheap and kind of hard to find (for me anyway). They were $20 for a 4-pack.

View attachment 645333

Just to make things more simple (in theory anyway), for my second tank I'm still considering ditching the existing assembly and trying the set-up mentioned above and giving these a shot --> https://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/Bal...quid_19_32_p/ball-lock-1-4in-liq-bulkhead.htm

Good luck and let us know how you eventually get yourself set-up. These tanks are great once you get them "up and running".
SB
Did you ever get a chance to get the above item for the second tank?
 

s.g.brown

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You have good timing - I just bought 2 of those liquid posts from OBK and a floating dip tube from more beer. I have high hopes for the dip tube.
The existing hole for the post is a tiny bit bigger than I would like, so I might try and find a bigger gasket for the inside bulkhead. It would probably seal just fine the way it is, but I'm a bit fussy.
 
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