1-Gallon Brewers UNITE!

[divrguy]

Yup the dry yeast is soooo easy with small batches. I use 1/3 of a pack per batch. Tape it up and put it in one of those vacuum sealed zipper bags. The handheld kind. I use it for hops, yeast, DME and corn sugar.

 

[JollyIsTheRoger]

Sure. Fold the packet over and stick some tape over it so it stays closed. Then stick it in the fridge.

I've got a 1lb package I keep in a freezer bag in my fridge for brewing. It's been in there for about 4 months and I haven't noticed a difference from when I first got it. If it's cold, it can take it an extra 30 minutes to an hour to really get moving. That hasn't varied since I got it though. If I let it warm on the counter before proofing or adding to the starter it's a little faster.


I've made starters for 1 gallon batches. Only when the OG was extremely high though. Up to about 1.1000 I wouldn't bother. Between 1.1000 and 1.1200 it's really a matter of personal preference. Over 1.1200 I'd make a starter. Though I did pitch a batch with an OG of 1.1320 with 4 grams of dry yeast and it did just fine. It did take the full 48 hours to really get going, but it didn't pick up any off flavors or anything.

I just did a 1.106 barleywine and pitched a full vial in a 1.1 gallon batch. If you get much higher than that I would check with mr malty(seriously, I doubted the need for pitching rates for a long time, but wouldn't do anything over 1.060 without it now).

 

[flipfloptan]

Hey All. My kegs are full so it is time to start working on my spring brews. I have scaled down 3 recipes if anyone is interested. Below is the Northern Brewer Wheat, BCS Wheat and Dead Ringer IPA. I'm not a fan of wheat but the wife and her friends are big fans. Chicks dig wheat, I guess. Need to keep them happy and if wheat beer is the trick that is ok with me.

All are AG at 75% eff. and all use s05 yeast

Dead Ringer IPA OG 1.065 FG 1.016 Ibu 57 Srm 8 ABV 6.5%

2 row malt 2lb 3 oz
C40 3oz

Centennial 11.65 AA .15oz 60 minutes
Centennial .2oz 20 minutes
centennial .4oz 5 minutes
centennial .2 dry hop


Northern Brewer Wheat OG 1.046 FG 1.012 Ibu 25 SRM 5 ABV 4.45

White Wheat 13oz
Pale Ale malt 13oz

Williamette 4.7% .2oz 60 min
Cascade 5.6% .2oz 15 min


BCS Wheat OG 1.046 FG 1.012 IBU 23 SRM 6 ABV 4.45

2 row malt 13oz
Dark Wheat 13oz

Williamette 4.7% .3 60min
Williamette .1 0 min
Centennial .1 0 min

 

[dadshomebrewing]

Hey All. My kegs are full so it is time to start working on my spring brews. I have scaled down 3 recipes if anyone is interested. Below is the Northern Brewer Wheat, BCS Wheat and Dead Ringer IPA. I'm not a fan of wheat but the wife and her friends are big fans. Chicks dig wheat, I guess. Need to keep them happy and if wheat beer is the trick that is ok with me.

All are AG at 75% eff. and all use s05 yeast

Dead Ringer IPA OG 1.065 FG 1.016 Ibu 57 Srm 8 ABV 6.5%

2 row malt 2lb 3 oz
C40 3oz

Centennial 11.65 AA .15oz 60 minutes
Centennial .2oz 20 minutes
centennial .4oz 5 minutes
centennial .2 dry hop


Northern Brewer Wheat OG 1.046 FG 1.012 Ibu 25 SRM 5 ABV 4.45

White Wheat 13oz
Pale Ale malt 13oz

Williamette 4.7% .2oz 60 min
Cascade 5.6% .2oz 15 min


BCS Wheat OG 1.046 FG 1.012 IBU 23 SRM 6 ABV 4.45

2 row malt 13oz
Dark Wheat 13oz

Williamette 4.7% .3 60min
Williamette .1 0 min
Centennial .1 0 min

The only suggestion I would make is that, unless you have a very accurate scale, you convert that recipe to grams.

An ounce is 29.34 grams, so your .1 oz is 3 grams, which is a little easier to manage on a scale, and if you miss, you don't miss by as much.

 

[flipfloptan]

Hey dadshomebrewing

Good catch. i do have them in grams when i brew but i have to use ounces when i order. i copied recipes from my order sheet.

 

[SchloeBrew]

Tried two 1 gallon batches this weekend. Like the idea of doing a lot more brewing with new ideas and recipes. However not excited that it takes roughly the same time and same clean up. For 1 gallon. Still thinks the pros win. And nice to do it all in the kitchen. Thanks for the idea! Never occurred to me before reading this thread. As a promiscuous brewer without adequate craft beer loving friends, this may prove the perfect solution.

 

[user 83772]

An ounce is 29.34 grams

It's actually 28.34, but I suppose you were close enough for gov't work.

 

[cheesecake]

Roasting some 2 row in the oven for some future brews

 

[user 83772]

FINALLY getting a chance to brew tomorrow. I've got all the equipment in a bucket waiting for sanitizer, found a nice spot for my fermenter, and have all my grain weighed out and ready.

Man, this whole "learning to brew" thing is nervewracking! But it's gonna be a good time. I have two quick questions though:

1. My hydrometer came with a little slip of paper that describes how to use it. In the bit that describes how to correct for readings taken from a sample that's not 60 degrees, there's a little chart that looks like this:

Wort Temp. Correction
52.2 -0.001
60 none
66.6 +0.001
72.4 +0.002
​

Am I correct in understanding this to mean that as long as my sample is within 52.3 - 66.5 degrees, I don't actually have to make any correction in order to ascertain my OG? I know it sounds like a stupid question, but I have a pretty gnarly math learning disability, so I want to make sure I get this right.

2. When fermenting, roughly how many degrees outside of my target temp can I get without risking off flavors? My target temp for the beer I'm making (a stout) is 68F. The spot I'll be keeping the fermenter hangs out at about 71-73F. I was planning on setting the fermenter in a tub of water with a towel over it to help knock off a few degrees - but if this isn't gonna be enough to knock it down to a reasonable range, I may be able to relocate the fermenter to a somewhat cooler area.

So yeah - sorry for the huge post! Just making sure everything is on track for the A.M.

 

[bleme]

My target temp for the beer I'm making (a stout) is 68F. The spot I'll be keeping the fermenter hangs out at about 71-73F. I was planning on setting the fermenter in a tub of water with a towel over it to help knock off a few degrees

My swamp cooler drops the temp about 3F without a fan and 7F with a fan. I use the tub year round to provide a more stable temp but I only add the towel and fan in the summer. There are a lot of variables though, like humidity, so YMMV.

My "fermentation room" is a tiled walk-in shower that only gets used when we have guests stay with us. The tile seems to suck the heat right out and if there are any spills or bottle bombs (I stack my finished cases in there too), they go right down the drain. Any guests will just have to wait for another shower to free up.

 

[dadshomebrewing]

It's actually 28.34, but I suppose you were close enough for gov't work.

yeah, my brain works better than my fingers sometimes.

it's still much more precise to deal in whole numbers using metric weights, than fractions using "english" weights.

 

[dadshomebrewing]

FINALLY getting a chance to brew tomorrow. I've got all the equipment in a bucket waiting for sanitizer, found a nice spot for my fermenter, and have all my grain weighed out and ready.

Man, this whole "learning to brew" thing is nervewracking! But it's gonna be a good time. I have two quick questions though:

1. My hydrometer came with a little slip of paper that describes how to use it. In the bit that describes how to correct for readings taken from a sample that's not 60 degrees, there's a little chart that looks like this:

Wort Temp. Correction
52.2 -0.001
60 none
66.6 +0.001
72.4 +0.002
​

Am I correct in understanding this to mean that as long as my sample is within 52.3 - 66.5 degrees, I don't actually have to make any correction in order to ascertain my OG? I know it sounds like a stupid question, but I have a pretty gnarly math learning disability, so I want to make sure I get this right.

2. When fermenting, roughly how many degrees outside of my target temp can I get without risking off flavors? My target temp for the beer I'm making (a stout) is 68F. The spot I'll be keeping the fermenter hangs out at about 71-73F. I was planning on setting the fermenter in a tub of water with a towel over it to help knock off a few degrees - but if this isn't gonna be enough to knock it down to a reasonable range, I may be able to relocate the fermenter to a somewhat cooler area.

So yeah - sorry for the huge post! Just making sure everything is on track for the A.M.

1. if you get to the stage (on your first batch) where you are worried about your OG reading to the thousandth of a percentage point, I will raise a glass and salute you.

2. if you have a basement, or cellar, just put your fermenter down there. the ambient temp should be ok, unless you live somewhere really hot.

3. remember the first rule of home brew

Relax, Don't Worry, Have a Home Brew.

just go for it, and have fun, and don't freak out with every burp and fart the fermenter makes.

 

[rawkstar320]

Hey one galloners! (I just coined a new term, I'm charging $0.10 per use)

I want to brew up a brown ale for my dad (for Christmas) so I'm in the market for a simple ag brown ale recipe....maybe similar to Newcastle (but nit the same, that is one tough clone recipe...).

A perfect recipe would consist of 2-4 malts and one or two hops.

Ready set go! (thanks in advance)

 

[BigRock947]

1. if you get to the stage (on your first batch) where you are worried about your OG reading to the thousandth of a percentage point, I will raise a glass and salute you.

2. if you have a basement, or cellar, just put your fermenter down there. the ambient temp should be ok, unless you live somewhere really hot.

3. remember the first rule of home brew

Relax, Don't Worry, Have a Home Brew.

^^^^^ This....

 

[BigRock947]

So here is my next recipe, I don't normally drink IPAs but I'm trying to expand my horizons.

Anyway...

1-Gallon Warrior SMaSh:

2 lbs of Vienna Malt
2g FWH Warrior 16%AA
2g 45 min. " " "
2g 15 min. " " "
2g 0 min. " " "

1/4tsp Irish Moss @ 15 min. - clarifying

SG 1.059
IBU 97.1
Mash @ 155 for 60 min.
Boil for 60 min.

I may try this same recipe without the FWH.

Any thoughts on this recipe?

Hey Guys:

I posted this SMaSH recipe over the weekend and I was curious about what to expect from such a hop forward recipe. Should I back off the hops and bring IBU's down a bit? I've never used Warrior Hops. Thanks.

 

[divrguy]

Hey Guys:

I posted this SMaSH recipe over the weekend and I was curious about what to expect from such a hop forward recipe. Should I back off the hops and bring IBU's down a bit? I've never used Warrior Hops. Thanks.

I think it may end up being too bitter if you don't. You should be able to taste the malt and the hops in a SMaSH so this would be overpowered by bitterness from the Warrior 60 min addition. Look up IBU's to Gravity unit chart ( see below) and that should get you the chart from designing great beers from Ray Daniels.

In a nutshell, bring your IBU's a little lower than the OG (in numbers) example OG is 1.050 so maybe an IBU of 40 would be good for trying out your recipe. Also, Warrior is a great neutral battering hop so it may not give you much in flavor and aroma but that's the whole purpose of your recipe is to see what flavor and aroma there is in Warrior.

EXAMPLE
The two bit’s of information we need are the IBU’s and the original gravity.
IBU = 25.2
OG = 1.073
We then lose the 2 preceding digits on the OG to give us 73.
Then divide the IBU by the OG
IBU/OG = 25.2 / 73 = 0.35
So therefore the BU:GU = 0.35

 

[BigRock947]

Hey one galloners! (I just coined a new term, I'm charging $0.10 per use)

I want to brew up a brown ale for my dad (for Christmas) so I'm in the market for a simple ag brown ale recipe....maybe similar to Newcastle (but nit the same, that is one tough clone recipe...).

A perfect recipe would consist of 2-4 malts and one or two hops.

Ready set go! (thanks in advance)

I just took this from BYO Recipe Data Base scaled on Promash:

Dark Streets of London

1.25 lb of Pale Malt - 2-Row
1.6 oz of 40L Crystal Malt
1.6 oz Molasses

.12 oz Northern Brewer 7% 60min (3.4g - I would round down)
.10 oz East Kent Goldings 5% 30 min (3g)
1/8 tsp of Irish Moss 15 min

SG 1.040
IBU 27 (Seems a little high - see rounding above)

the recipe calls for 90 minute boil, I would start the boil and wait for the Hot Break happen then proceed with a 60 minute boil add hops as scheduled.

Pitch 2 to 3 g of Favorite English Dry Yeast - I use S-04 at 60 - 75 degrees
Ferment at 60 to 72

Sounds good ....may have to try this myself.

 

[BigRock947]

I think it may end up being too bitter if you don't. You should be able to taste the malt and the hops in a SMaSH so this would be overpowered by bitterness from the Warrior 60 min addition. Look up IBU's to Gravity unit chart ( see below) and that should get you the chart from designing great beers from Ray Daniels.

In a nutshell, bring your IBU's a little lower than the OG (in numbers) example OG is 1.050 so maybe an IBU of 40 would be good for trying out your recipe. Also, Warrior is a great neutral battering hop so it may not give you much in flavor and aroma but that's the whole purpose of your recipe is to see what flavor and aroma there is in Warrior.

Thanks...I like the suggestion of IBU's to match or be lower than SG. It gives me a good reference point. I think I may drop the FWH and adjust from there.

 

[divrguy]

Thanks...I like that suggest of IBU's to match or be lower than SG. It gives me a good reference point. I think I may drop the FWH and adjust from there.

Of course if you are a total hophead, the BU:GU ratio of a normal IPA doesn't work....lol. I like my IPA's pretty dang hoppy so I tend to be closer to 1 in the ratio.

 

[BigRock947]

Of course if you are a total hophead, the BU:GU ratio of a normal IPA doesn't work....lol. I like my IPA's pretty dang hoppy so I tend to be closer to 1 in the ratio.

Never been a Hophead. I do like a good APA. I know of guys that just love IPA's so I'm trying to at least try them and brew a couple of high hop SMaSH's

PS: Not being a hop head is a tad strange considering I love the smell of the hops before I put them into the wort

 

[rawkstar320]

I just took this from BYO Recipe Data Base scaled on Promash:

Dark Streets of London

1.25 lb of Pale Malt - 2-Row
1.6 oz of 40L Crystal Malt
1.6 oz Molasses

.12 oz Northern Brewer 7% 60min (3.4g - I would round down)
.10 oz East Kent Goldings 5% 30 min (3g)
1/8 tsp of Irish Moss 15 min

SG 1.040
IBU 27 (Seems a little high - see rounding above)

the recipe calls for 90 minute boil, I would start the boil and wait for the Hot Break happen then proceed with a 60 minute boil add hops as scheduled.

Pitch 2 to 3 g of Favorite English Dry Yeast - I use S-04 at 60 - 75 degrees
Ferment at 60 to 72

Sounds good ....may have to try this myself.

This looks good, think fuggle hops would fit? They seem to be in a lot of recipes and I still have a whole pack to use.

Thanks a ton.

 

[BigRock947]

This looks good, think fuggle hops would fit? They seem to be in a lot of recipes and I still have a whole pack to use.

Thanks a ton.

Now bear this mind...I'm still learning about high hops and grain works together but yeah fuggles should work fine. Its an English-style hop and I like it for my porters. Check out BYO's hop chart...great reference.

Besides that's half the fun trying different combinations and flavors...

 

[cheesecake]

Fuggle would be a great choice if you want i can throw that into beersmith and adjust the bitterness with the hops you have. Do you know the aa on the fuggles

 

[brewman !]

Does anyone have a link to a nice 1-2 gallon counter top semi automated brewing system ?

I'm thinking of something electric for all grain with at least 1 pump for circulating the mash.

Is a 5 gallon Gott insulated beverage cooler too large to use for a mash tun for 2 gallon batches ?

I'm building a nice 5, 8 and 15 gallon brew system for brewing in my garage. Me thinks it would be nice to have a 1-2 gallon indoor system for doing test batches before scaling them up. Or is that overkill ?

Thanks

 

[Halbrust]

Brewed my first beers last Wednesday. A one-gallon dunkelweiss, a one gallon wheat pale ale, and a one gallon braggot. Three seperate beers, all done in-doors. Started about 8:00 AM, was finished and cleaned up before the wife got off work at 5:30.

Another reason one gallon batches are awesome? I switched my hops on accident. I'm going to have a 30IBU dunkelweiss. If it's nasty, that's only 6-8 beers wasted.

 

[flipfloptan]

Does anyone have a link to a nice 1-2 gallon counter top semi automated brewing system ?

I'm thinking of something electric for all grain with at least 1 pump for circulating the mash.

Is a 5 gallon Gott insulated beverage cooler too large to use for a mash tun for 2 gallon batches ?

I'm building a nice 5, 8 and 15 gallon brew system for brewing in my garage. Me thinks it would be nice to have a 1-2 gallon indoor system for doing test batches before scaling them up. Or is that overkill ?

Thanks

This can be scaled down or kept as is for a gallon set up. I would love to do this put electricity scares me.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/110v-recirculating-ebiab-2-5-gallon-batches-341219/

 

[divrguy]

Does anyone have a link to a nice 1-2 gallon counter top semi automated brewing system ?

I'm thinking of something electric for all grain with at least 1 pump for circulating the mash.

Is a 5 gallon Gott insulated beverage cooler too large to use for a mash tun for 2 gallon batches ?

I'm building a nice 5, 8 and 15 gallon brew system for brewing in my garage. Me thinks it would be nice to have a 1-2 gallon indoor system for doing test batches before scaling them up. Or is that overkill ?

Thanks

I use a 5 gallon Cooler for my 1 and 2 gallon brews but if you only need the 2 gallon, they are like $10 at the Depot and would take up less space.

This can be scaled down or kept as is for a gallon set up. I would love to do this put electricity scares me.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/110v-recirculating-ebiab-2-5-gallon-batches-341219/

Wow!! I read that whole thread and I gotta say I am very jealous of that system, but I dont think my wallet could handle it even though it is around $500. Plus, my little 1 Gallon BIAB's look a lot easier to maintain... lol

 

[cheesecake]

That's what I'm in the process of building.

 

[dadshomebrewing]

Hey cheese, how did the RIS turn out so far?

 

[cheesecake]

So far so good. Turning up the temp on the mini fridge to speed things along. Has been fermenting at about 60-62 and bin its going up to 70 to help speed up the cleanup process.