Die someone just starting out. 1.5 gal bucket with a airlock is going to be the best way to start. Or using glass gallon fermenters for beer. Kombucha is not something you want in a carboy. The mother gets hard to take out. One of those glass dispensers with a tap and a big screw on lid quite wellI never saw this, I don't think I have notifications on :-/. I just saw the new one they have as well. I gave up on trying small batches and stuck with my 5, however my neighbor is now wanting to get into small batch beer and kambucha. So 1 gallon keg fermenters are the way to go? Any benefit to being able to dump yeast etc and condition in it? Or with that small of a batch maybe that part doesn't matter...
The 2gal food safe buckets from Home Depot and Lowe’s work well for 1 to 1.5gal batches of beer. They are also available from northern brewer and Midwest supply with a grommet.
Are you concerned about maintaining a stable mash temperature, raising the mash temperature, or both?I feel like temp control [for a 1 gal batch] is going to be a nightmare.
I use my stovetop for every batch. Temperature control IS a bit of a pain. Sometimes I put my mash tun into a preheated oven to try to hold temperature, but I haven't got the technique down well enough, so usually I just check temperature every few minutes and turn on a low burner (glass-top electric) for a few minutes to bring temperature back up. Yes it's a pain. I still haven't bothered to figure out a better way. You could play with a thick mash and add boiling water to it every so often to bring temperatures up to the next step. I've tried that as well, but with varying success, being that my batches are so small and heat is lost every time you move the kettle or stir it.I am planning on doing a few more 1 gal batches. They are going be lagers. Previously I only mashed at a single temp, but I want to replicate my 5 gal batch as close as possible so I was thinking of doing step mash on the stovetop. Before I even attempt this, is it a good idea? I feel like temp control is going to be a nightmare. I don't have a gas stove
Should I just stick to what I have been doing? My reasoning is to see if I can get more fermentability so better attenuation for these "lagers".
I wonder if a slow cooker would work for what you are trying to do with a 1 gallon batch? If you put an inkbird or similar controller on it and stuck the probe in the mash? Probably using some kind of thermowell? I don’t know what the temp range for an inkbird is?I use my stovetop for every batch. Temperature control IS a bit of a pain. Sometimes I put my mash tun into a preheated oven to try to hold temperature, but I haven't got the technique down well enough, so usually I just check temperature every few minutes and turn on a low burner (glass-top electric) for a few minutes to bring temperature back up. Yes it's a pain. I still haven't bothered to figure out a better way. You could play with a thick mash and add boiling water to it every so often to bring temperatures up to the next step. I've tried that as well, but with varying success, being that my batches are so small and heat is lost every time you move the kettle or stir it.
I would be trying to raise the temp and hold at a certain temp in the step process. My typical is 122/145/158/mash out, but this is only for 5-gal batches so far.Are you concerned about maintaining a stable mash temperature, raising the mash temperature, or both?
From the sound of your experience I think two step might work? Maybe something like 122F then 149F ~30 min each. Might be worth a shot and if it is too much trouble I'll just keep it simple going forward.I use my stovetop for every batch. Temperature control IS a bit of a pain. Sometimes I put my mash tun into a preheated oven to try to hold temperature, but I haven't got the technique down well enough, so usually I just check temperature every few minutes and turn on a low burner (glass-top electric) for a few minutes to bring temperature back up. Yes it's a pain. I still haven't bothered to figure out a better way. You could play with a thick mash and add boiling water to it every so often to bring temperatures up to the next step. I've tried that as well, but with varying success, being that my batches are so small and heat is lost every time you move the kettle or stir it.
Great excuse to get a sous vide wand if you don't have one. That's what I use and you can dial it in to the degree. Would make step mash a breeze on a one gallon batch. Good for cooking stuff, too!temp control
It's been a while since I've done a ~ 1 gal BIAB batch. With ~ 1 gal and 2.5 gal batches, I found that:I feel like temp control is going to be a nightmare.
That would be fine except that I'll never do a protein rest again. Body and head retention go bye-bye.From the sound of your experience I think two step might work? Maybe something like 122F then 149F ~30 min each. Might be worth a shot and if it is too much trouble I'll just keep it simple going forward.
Its not necessary with most of today’s malts.That would be fine except that I'll never do a protein rest again. Body and head retention go bye-bye.
https://www.northernbrewer.com/products/northern-brewer-1-gallon-mini-keg . And there other suppliers. Also the book "Speed Brewing: ..," (2015 by Mary Izett) which, IIRC, targets batches that go into 1.75 gal kegs.Are 1 gallon kegs a thing?
I have 2 uKeg Go's at 1 gallon each (128-oz). Super simple to use, and effective. They both fit side by side on a shelf in my fridge -- perfect. About the size of a gallon of milk of course, slightly taller but manageable. The tap folds down nicely. The rigid chrome handle is your height limitation. They'll hold carbonation for roughly 2-3 months, not any longer than that, which is usually fine for a small keg anyway. And if not, just replace the CO2 cartridge and you're good to go. Travels nicely.https://www.northernbrewer.com/products/northern-brewer-1-gallon-mini-keg . And there other suppliers. Also the book "Speed Brewing: ..," (2015 by Mary Izett) which, IIRC, targets batches that go into 1.75 gal kegs.
Could a guy "prime" one of those with sugar (just like bottle carbing) safely?I have 2 uKeg Go's at 1 gallon each (128-oz). Super simple to use, and effective. They both fit side by side on a shelf in my fridge -- perfect. About the size of a gallon of milk of course, slightly taller but manageable. The tap folds down nicely. The rigid chrome handle is your height limitation. They'll hold carbonation for roughly 2-3 months, not any longer than that, which is usually fine for a small keg anyway. And if not, just replace the CO2 cartridge and you're good to go. Travels nicely.
Yes, I prime mine. Saves on the CO2 and/or prolongs the carbonation period by an extra week or two.Could a guy "prime" one of those with sugar (just like bottle carbing) safely?
nevermind, googled it. That price is cray-zay!
I have a half gallon one of these I use for taking beer to club meetings and stuffI have 2 uKeg Go's at 1 gallon each (128-oz). Super simple to use, and effective. They both fit side by side on a shelf in my fridge -- perfect. About the size of a gallon of milk of course, slightly taller but manageable. The tap folds down nicely. The rigid chrome handle is your height limitation. They'll hold carbonation for roughly 2-3 months, not any longer than that, which is usually fine for a small keg anyway. And if not, just replace the CO2 cartridge and you're good to go. Travels nicely.
View attachment 859815
I meant like for putting your little 1 gallon batch on tap if you have a kegerator. I’ve seen those “man cans” and I know they make a lid with fittings for thosehttps://www.northernbrewer.com/products/northern-brewer-1-gallon-mini-keg . And there other suppliers. Also the book "Speed Brewing: ..," (2015 by Mary Izett) which, IIRC, targets batches that go into 1.75 gal kegs.
It might be too late for this advice, but Lallemand London can be a monster, especially fermented on the warm side, and especially at high gravities. Give yourself a lot of headspace, and/or use a blow-off tube.I decided to take a shot at a 1 gallon batch to try something different. In the course of this, I decided to also do it brew in a bag, so now I can’t say I never did it anymore. And just for kicks while I am at it, I decided to use dry yeast.
Those who know me know I have been a Wyeast guy from pretty much my first brew. I have been hearing all the good things about how far dry yeast has come, so I am giving it a shot in this 1 gallon brew in a bag brew. So this is a 3’fer on “new things” or something different for me - 1 gallon batch, brew in a bag, dry yeast.
I thought if I am going to make the effort to do a 1 gallon batch then I should make it something worth doing. So I decided on an Old Ale. I scaled down a previous club brew that we had done for a barrel brew Old Ale. As I’m only getting 9 or 10 bottles, I figured it as 1.25 gallons into the fermenter to hopefully get as much as I can after losses.
Size: 1.2 gal
Efficiency: 76%. (Brew in a bag. I normally get 81 or 82%)
Attenuation: 76.0%
Original Gravity: 1.086
Terminal Gravity: 1.021
Color: 18.74 SRM
Alcohol: 8.65%
Bitterness: 56.6
Ingredients:
2.25 lb (59.5%) 2-Row Brewers Malt
1.125 lb (29.8%) Maris Otter Pale
2.5 oz (4.1%) Crystal Malt 60°L
2.5 oz (4.1%) Munich TYPE II
.5 oz (0.8%) Chocolate Malt
.5 oz (0.8%) Special Roast Malt
.5 oz (0.8%) British Black Patent
.33 oz (100.0%) Challenger (11%) boiled 60 m
1.0 ea Lallemand London Ale
Gathered my equipment:
View attachment 859771
- 4 gallon brew pot
- 3.5 gallon brew pot (these were old pots I had before I bought the real nice one I have now)
- Wort Chiller (just happens to fit both pots)
- Collander
- Grain Bag
- Funnel (I ended up not needing this)
- Strainer
- Hydrometer and jar
- Thermometer
Heated my strike water, ground the grain and mashed in the bag for 60 min
View attachment 859769
View attachment 859767
View attachment 859768
Heated Sparge water
View attachment 859774
Here’s where its different - When the mash was complete, I pulled the grain bag out of the pot. Put it on top of the colander and poured the sparge water over it.
View attachment 859780
View attachment 859775
View attachment 859777
At this point, we have wort! I don’t know if it shows up in the picture well, but it’s very murky/cloudy compared to wort pulled from a 3 vessel system after vorlauf.
View attachment 859781
Now we bring to a boil and add our tiny 60 min hop addition
View attachment 859772
5 min before the end of the boil I added yeast nutrient and Irish Moss
View attachment 859770
Cool the wort as usual
View attachment 859776
I was looking for 1.085. When I took the hot gravity and corrected, I thought I was a little low. So I added 4 oz brown sugar. I came up 1.090 at the end, not complaining. : )
View attachment 859779
Strained through the sanitized strainer soaked in a bucket of Star San and pitched yeast by just sprinkling it on top. This pack was a bit out of date so I put the whole pack in,
View attachment 859773
I put this one in a 2 gallon bucket and the bucket is inside of a tray in case of any severe yeast reaction/blowoff/leakage. I always put info on my fermenters with a piece of painters tape. I put the kind of beer, the date it was brewed, the gravity, and the yeast I used. This piece of tape will transfer to the inside of a beer box or the side of a keg, etc, when the beer is packaged.
View attachment 859778
Takeaways:
Pros:
- Brew day was shorter than average (for me) by a little over an hour. Smaller everything, quicker boil, etc.
- Significant difference in handling of equipment. Much less to deal with, much easier.
- Grain crush for brew in a bag should be finer than for a traditional system. I knew this and didn’t do it anyway.
- Brew in a bag seems to have less mash efficiency - this has been noted in many sources. Not a huge difference but something just to take into account
Cons:
- Can brew indoors in the kitchen. Not at the mercy of weather.
- Lighter equipment, easier handing for those of us up in age.
- Less equipment requirement for those with little space or where space is a concern
- Little shorter brew day
- Can do high gravity beers in small size without exceeding mash tun capacity or using extract. I like this in particular and will probably be doing more of this.
To be seen:
- Not a significant time difference vs making 3 gallons or 5 gallons
- You only get 9 or 10 bottles - so make it something worth brewing 9 or 10 bottles of. Then again, every batch is special and you get to brew more!
- Are 1 gallon kegs a thing?
- How this looks/tastes when it’s done
Lol - yes, already had to do that. 1.25 gallons went into a 2 gallon bucket. Sprinkled yeast (expiry date was 2021) had activity within 3 hrs. Large foam coming through airlock. I sanitized a gallon jug and transferred some to that. Seems like a 2 gallon bucket wasn’t big enough for a 1.25 gallon batch,It might be too late for this advice, but Lallemand London can be a monster, especially fermented on the warm side, and especially at high gravities. Give yourself a lot of headspace, and/or use a blow-off tube.
It's been said before, but small batches and BIAB just go together (ramma-lamma-lamma-ka-dingity-da-dinga-dong.)
London is kind of funny. After it tears through in a day or something, it sits at what looks like final gravity for a week, and then takes it down another few points.Lol - yes, already had to do that. 1.25 gallons went into a 2 gallon bucket. Sprinkled yeast (expiry date was 2021) had activity within 3 hrs. Large foam coming through airlock. I sanitized a gallon jug and transferred some to that. Seems like a 2 gallon bucket wasn’t big enough for a 1.25 gallon batch,
When this one is done I’m going to re-use this yeast for a small English Barleywine
Yeah I thought like that too. After reading through alot of this I thought I’d just see what the fuss was.Interesting, brewing a one-gallon batch. By the time I'd get through half of that I'd probably want nine more gallons.
I brew big beers too and wouldn't be satisfied with just a gallon, maybe a gallon to drink on a couple of occasions. Those big beers can keep for a long time, so I don't mind ten gallons. Backwoods Bastard is my all-time favorite, and it goes for the same around here. I haven't tried making that one but have one I patterned from their Old Curmudgeon. That reminds me, with winter coming soon, maybe make another one.Yeah I thought like that too. After reading through alot of this I thought I’d just see what the fuss was.
It does work well for strong beers where a full mash bill would exceed mash tun capacity. I just made the 1 gallon old ale, total grains for that were just under 4 lbs. i have an English Barleywine I want to do next off the same yeast. After that I’m thinking about trying something like a Founders Backwoods Bastard clone. Even a 3 gallon batch of one of these would need more grain than I can mash. I could buy extract but I like being able to do it without extract.
These kinds of beers pay to make. Backwoods Bastard is about $15 here for a 4 pack. I figured I could make something like it for about $1.25 a bottle.
I’m one guy, we don’t have parties, etc. i took to smaller batches a long time ago. I have 5 gallons of Vienna lager, 3 gallons of doppelbock in kegs. I have 5 gallons of pre-pro lager that will be going into a keg soon, i have another 5 gallons of red lager going out of primary to lager now. I have 3 gallons of cider finishing primary,
These small batches of strong ales are just extras. Possibly to explore doing it now for when I get a little older and can’t do the lifting anymore.
I don’t have that much capacity. My main brewing system these days is the Anvil Foundry 6.5. It holds a whopping 8 lbs of grain max. I read where some guys were using a bag instead of the basket but they still weren’t getting much more than that. I can make a 3 gallon batch up to low 1.060 range without using extract. I’d like to not use extract if I don’t have to. Some recipes I can throw in a little brown sugar to bump gravity a little.I brew big beers too and wouldn't be satisfied with just a gallon, maybe a gallon to drink on a couple of occasions. Those big beers can keep for a long time, so I don't mind ten gallons. Backwoods Bastard is my all-time favorite, and it goes for the same around here. I haven't tried making that one but have one I patterned from their Old Curmudgeon. That reminds me, with winter coming soon, maybe make another one.
I built my system for 15-gallon batches so ten gallons isn't a problem which I do all of the time. I brew just for me and my occasional friends and some giveaways like the guy who plows my driveway.
So what age is getting old? I think I'm already there and I ponder how long I want to do this. Still going now for a while. Use pumps and hoses, no lifting except for all of those filled pint glasses!
I'm going to plug that into BeerSmith and see how it looks. After kegging up my SpaceX Amber yesterday I was thinking of my next batch and I was noodling towards a Scots Ale! Very timely, thanks for sharing!So here's what I came up with for Founders Backwood Bastard using the available info from their site.
I m pretty sure it's in the style of a Strong Scotch Ale or Wee Heavy. I have heard it's the same beer as their Dirty Bastard but barrel aged. They tell us 11%, 50 IBU, malts say Abbey Malt and Crystal, hops say Nugget and Willamette. I am not familiar with Abbey malt. I'm going to do my one gallon batch with the same yeast I am using now. If I were to pick yeast, I'd use Wyeast 1728.
We could make this a separate thread to collaborate on a recipe if need be. I wrote this as a one gallon, which I intend to try, I scaled this up to 3 gallons. Collect 4 gallons, boil for an hour, 3.5 gallons goes into the fermenter so we get 3 gallons of actual finished beer after losses. Even as a 3 gallon recipe its about 14 pounds of grain and I'm still having to use a small % of sugar.
Of course, you need to do some wood aging at the end. I have oak cubes and oak spirals. Still trying to figure to how to bourbon soak spirals. I wonder if it picks up any alcohol from the bourbon barrel?
Backwoods Bastard Clone
17-C Wee Heavy
Size: 3.5 gal
Efficiency: 77%
Attenuation: 75.0%
Original Gravity: 1.110
Terminal Gravity: 1.028
Color: 18.46 SRM
Alcohol: 11.03%
Bitterness: 49.3
Ingredients:
8.75 lb (62.2%) Pale Ale Malt
3 lb (21.3%) Dark Munich
11 oz (4.9%) Crystal Malt 20°L
11 oz (4.9%) Biscuit Malt
3 oz (1.3%) Brown Malt
.75 lb (5.3%) Dark Brown Sugar - boiled 60 m
1 oz Nugget (13.0%) - boiled 60 min
.75 oz Willamette (5.0%) - boiled 20 m
Lallemand 3767 London
I’ve been thinking about that 1.75 gal batch thing. That might make sense. Two batches you might get 3 gallons of finished beer after losses.https://www.northernbrewer.com/products/northern-brewer-1-gallon-mini-keg . And there other suppliers. Also the book "Speed Brewing: ..," (2015 by Mary Izett) which, IIRC, targets batches that go into 1.75 gal kegs.
Enter your email address to join: