Budget HERMS build

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Loyd

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This is what I came up with based on parts I had laying around from other projects. It uses two of the ChiCom Solar water pumps, an Auberins PID controller set to on/off, about 10' of silicone tubing, about 15' of 3/8 copper tubing and a couple 3/8" barbed fittings.

After researching the Definition of HERMS I think this system would actually be a HERWS Heat Exchanger Recirculating Water System.

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But youre having to manually adjust the heat source still?
As long as the HLT is warmer than the MLT the controller keeps the temperature stable. Maintaining the HLT temperature is about the same as maintaining a steady boil in the boil kettle.
 
Anyway you could post where you bought the items needed or the exact model. I'm pretty stupid when it comes to this type of thing. Thank you. The system looks super easy and just the thing for me.
 
Anyway you could post where you bought the items needed or the exact model. I'm pretty stupid when it comes to this type of thing. Thank you. The system looks super easy and just the thing for me.

Here is a list of most of the parts. You can use different parts but this is what I used.

2X 12V Pumps
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Solar-H...463497?hash=item58b5b1ffc9:g:vnAAAOSwq7JUIoLW

12 V Aurberins PID
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=132

Temperature Sensor
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3m-Stainles...851754?hash=item4d1bbcfb6a:g:tmYAAOxyaTxTTJDq

Copper Tubing
http://www.homedepot.com/p/3-8-in-OD-x-10-ft-Copper-Soft-Refrigeration-Coil-PCLE-375R010/203654362

4 Gal Aluminum Pot
https://www.walmart.com/ip/IMUSA-16...r-with-Tempered-Glass-Lid-and-Insert/13370052

2x Barb fittings
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sioux-Chief-3-8-in-x-3-8-in-Brass-Barb-x-MIP-Adapter-903-401601/300260148

3/8 Coupling cut in half to make two 3/8 FIP nuts. Added 3/8 SS washer and a ball lock o-ring to seal the fittings to the pot.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sioux-Ch...Brass-FPT-x-FPT-Coupling-930-121601/300260145

Kit used to cut and bend the copper tubing.
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-tube-flaring-kit-5969.html

I used silicone hose because I had 20' of it. The housing is made from scrap aluminum and HDPE I had around the house. You will also need a 12v power supply. I used a power supply from an old lynksis router I trashed. The system draws very little power. It could also be run from a 12v battery.
 
Thank you so much. Can you do step mashes with this setup or is it best for maintaining temps? Any chance to get a diagram or pics of wiring it up. My mind does not grasp electric circuits well.
 
You can do step mashes with it. If you are trying to step up more than 5 degrees per step you probably want a longer copper coil in the mash tun. mine is only 10'. It will raise the temperature of 5 gallons a degree every 30-45 seconds with the HLT 25 degrees warmer than the mash tun.

The wiring diagram will depend on what PID controller you are using. You will also need to be able to adjust the settings in the PID. There are instructions available online for most of the PID controllers.

One pump is just controlled by a switch. The other pump is connected to an on-off-on switch. In one on position it works like the other switch. In the other on position it powers the PID which controls the pump. You have to connect the temperature probe to the pid which is two wires and the power input and output to the pump which is also two wires each. Will try to get some better pictures in the next couple days but unless you use the same PID they wont help much.
 
Any experience you can share re design? I need an interim (cheap) solution as I am replacing my cooler with stainless -
any issues with clogged lines?
 
It is currently set up on my three tier stand. I do Exhibition brews with my Homebrew club using a lawnmower battery to power the unit. I clean out the wort recirculating pump occasionally if something gets hung in the impeller. The other pump just gets water run through it. Only hot water from the HLT goes through the copper coil. No plugging issues. My mash temperatures always stay within a degree of where I set them.

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Any reason you couldn't use a single pump and pump the wort through the coil placed in the HLT? The PID would just pump the wort through when the temp went too low. The wort in the coil would increase temp when not circulating, but doubt that little of a volume would effect the over all that much.
 
I don't like to circulate wort through a coil that I can not visually inspect for cleanliness. I also do not want to over heat any portion of the wort during mashing. This is what works for me.
 
I'm currently building one of your systems. Thanks so much for all you posted. Can you explain programming the PID?
 
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