New RO setup

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mongoose33

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Because my local water is very hard, I wanted to install a reverse osmosis system to I could roll my own instead of buying, buying, buying RO water.

One of our vendors here is Buckeye Hydro. I did some PM'ing with Russ about what I wanted to do--which is set up a system I could feed from my utility sink faucet and then feed directly into a water jug or brew kettle. Further, I wanted it to be portable such that if I needed to move it indoors to avoid freezing or avoid 100+ degree temps, I could do that.

Finally go to it this weekend. I bought the Premium RO system with a 50-gallon per day capacity, and Russ talked me through the fittings I needed to hook it up to my faucet (it has a garden-hose thread adapter on it).

I also bought a TDS meter so I could assess what I was getting, and a micro-ball valve for the output line, which I haven't installed yet.

Yesterday was brew day. Amazing results. I didn't expect to get 2 gallons per hour output because that's the expectation under ideal circumstances but I was close to it. I started out running the output line directly into my boil kettle first thing in the morning while I started setting everything else up, and doing tings like crushing grain.

The TDS meter showed between 5 and 7 ppm; I tested it in distilled water and it came back 0. The water before the RO process was in the 300-400 range.

I'm pleased because this produces water at a faster rate than I expected. If I had to do it over again I'd probably bump it up to 75 gallons per day or maybe 100. The price increase for that improved capacity is only about $8. It's doing exactly what I wanted it to do, but I could see an even faster rate saving me some time at some point.

I've attached a pic below showing how I installed it; the rag over the faucet is a "fix" for my garden hose adapter not being perfectly sealed and producing a fine spray. I'll try to fix that before my next brew day.

Right now I'm very pleased. It produces water at the rate I wanted, it was pretty easy to install (two screws on a piece of plywood screwed to the wall), and when I'm finished all the feed and waste lines coil up on the filter, out of the way. I have 11 gallons of RO water ready and waiting for my next brew day, and while that's in process I'll be refilling the containers to get ready for the next one.

The vent hole in the Aquatainer was 3/16"; the output tubing was 1/4". A little widening of the hole with a 1/4" drill bit and the output tubing is a perfect fit.

rosystem.jpg
 
Looks good. My impression is that Buckeye Hydro will steer you straight. You got only the 3 stages that you really need.

The one thing I caution you on, is that you should consider using a larger container and including a float valve in the container and an auto-shutoff valve on the RO unit. One of these days, you will walk away from the unit while you are filling and forget to shut it off when full. It could be crying time depending on what happens with the overflow. One of those thick polyethylene, industrial trash cans could work well.
 
If you don't mind me asking? what did that set up cost you? i am at the point that I think it would be so much easier than going to buy RO water each brew day.
 
If you don't mind me asking? what did that set up cost you? i am at the point that I think it would be so much easier than going to buy RO water each brew day.

Here's a link to the specific system: http://www.buckeyehydro.com/premium-ro-systems/

As you click the varying capacities the price changes; the difference between the 24-gallon per day and the 100-gallon per day is only $8. In retrospect....I should have probably added $6 more to go from 50- to 100-gpd. :)

I've copied the invoice info below. Turns out the TDS meter is apparently now on sale for something like $15.99.

Feedwater Fittings
(Feedwater Fittings: Hose Bib Adapter, Brass, 1/4")
0134 1 $9.99 USD $9.99 USD

Micro Ball Valves
(Micro Valve Configurations: 1/4" Quick Connect)
0129 1 $4.75 USD $4.75 USD

Premium RO Systems
(Capacity: 50 Gallons per Day)
0151 1 $129.00 USD $129.00 USD

TDS3 Handheld Meter
75 1 $22.20 USD $22.20 USD

Subtotal: $165.94 USD
Shipping: $21.16 USD
Grand Total: $187.10 USD
 
Looks good. My impression is that Buckeye Hydro will steer you straight. You got only the 3 stages that you really need.

The one thing I caution you on, is that you should consider using a larger container and including a float valve in the container and an auto-shutoff valve on the RO unit. One of these days, you will walk away from the unit while you are filling and forget to shut it off when full. It could be crying time depending on what happens with the overflow. One of those thick polyethylene, industrial trash cans could work well.

Thanks for the warning. Sounds like wisdom borne of experience... :)

Fortunately it's a garage floor with a drain so....it wouldn't be catastrophic if there was overflow.
 
I read RO water actually isn't good for brewing, but it sounds like you guys brew just fine with it.

On the face of it, yes RO water is not well-suited for brewing. That is why most brewers add limited amounts of particular mineral salts to the water to improve its flavor and performance for brewing. You can brew with pure RO or distilled water and the fermentation will proceed appropriately. The malt provides almost all the nutrients the yeast need. However, the taste of the beer can be 'bland'. Adding appropriate levels of certain ions does improve beer flavor.
 
Looks good. My impression is that Buckeye Hydro will steer you straight. You got only the 3 stages that you really need.

The one thing I caution you on, is that you should consider using a larger container and including a float valve in the container and an auto-shutoff valve on the RO unit. One of these days, you will walk away from the unit while you are filling and forget to shut it off when full. It could be crying time depending on what happens with the overflow. One of those thick polyethylene, industrial trash cans could work well.

I agree with everything said here. You can't go wrong with Russ and Buckeyehydro. Also fully agree with the larger container and an auto shutoff. Russ can help with the shutoff and I bought an Ace Roto mold tank for the storage.
Haven't looked back!!!
 
Remember that you can control the amount of waste water produced. Its done with a small $4 part called a flow restrictor. If you want to reduce the ratio of waste to purified water (what we call "recovery") there are some things to think about like the quality of the system feedwater, if you have a water softener, your water temperature and pressure, etc. Best if you call in and we can have a short conversation. Also - there can be a downside to restricting the waste water flow too much.

Russ
 
Hi Russ

I have pretty low ion content water, about 100ppm coming out of the tap. I'll give you a call in the next week to talk through choices, as my water is expensive so I would be interested to know if I can keep a decent production rate and potentially even lose some rejection efficiency if it would make for a better product:waste ratio
 
As Russ mentions, you can reduce the wastewater volume by changing the restrictor. The wasting rate is set high by the RO manufacturers to avoid premature scaling on the membrane when you supply it with really hard water. If you feed ion-exchange softened water as I do, then you can substantially reduce the wasting rate since the potential for scaling the membranes is much lower.
 
Looks good. My impression is that Buckeye Hydro will steer you straight. You got only the 3 stages that you really need.

The one thing I caution you on, is that you should consider using a larger container and including a float valve in the container and an auto-shutoff valve on the RO unit. One of these days, you will walk away from the unit while you are filling and forget to shut it off when full. It could be crying time depending on what happens with the overflow. One of those thick polyethylene, industrial trash cans could work well.

^This. I actually bought a float valve on amazon for around $8 then searched craigslist for a 30g blue HDPE barrel with lid, installed a spigot around 1/2 way up now anytime I use it I just turn the valve get the RO water needed, then the barrel fills back up and shuts off once the water hits the float. I never have to worry about it and I always have water ready to use. Plus if the zombie apocalypse comes I have potable water :mug:

PS if you go this route make sure you ask what was contained in the HDPE barrel, Ideally you want one that had food grade material in it before so make sure to ask.
 
Rubbermaid Brute trash cans are food grade HDPE. They are widely available, not expensive, have lids, and also a nice 5-wheel dollie snaps into the bottom so you can roll it across a smooth floor.

Russ
 
Russ, any issues with water storage in a tank like that for household use? I was considering getting a 20 gallon HDPE tank, and using a booster pump with a small pressure tank to feed my refrigerator and drinking water faucet. I was just concerned about how sanitary the tank would stay in long term use.
 
Hmm. Why not have your RO system feed the pressure tank directly? That's a more typical set up. We also have a system that feeds 1) a pressure tank, and 2) an atmospheric (unpressurized) tank.

Russ
 
My current setup is a pressure tank system. RO-1070 tank, system has a booster pump and a permeate pump. Pressure switch is on at 40PSI, off at 60PSI. When I draw brewing water I'm essentially dumping the entire tank.

I was looking for more water storage. I guess a larger tank would make more sense than anything more elaborate.
 
That's a 14 gallon tank - so it would hold about half that amount in water. You can also add a second pressure tank as well - of the same size or different size.
 
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