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Yes, there are some great people here, but you provide perfectly good advice yourself. :mug: I will only add/emphasize, clean your kegs well with PBW or an oxygenating cleaner of the like, clean your lines every couple of brews with BLC, and rinse very well. You can't over rinse. Then use the...

Awesome! Good job. :mug: You can learn a lot here. I know I have anyway. And I really hope you decide to hang around. I am already looking forward to the day when have become a "big-name" respected member and others are looking up to you for help and advice. That is when some jerk like me or...

Against my better judgement, I am going to address this anyway. Jaybird said "wort chiller". You are the one who mentioned all grain, which requires full boils. A wort chiller serves to cool the 5 gals to pitching temp in a reasonable amount of time. A fermentation chamber is for...

I hear that jjward101 will. Just sayin'..... ;)

Ha ha...I always suspected you were a troll. It is now confirmed. :D Now, I am going to troll elsewhere to find a worthy no0b to give my answers to.

This is my opinion as well. If it is barely dripping, then the crack is quite small and doesn't warrant complicated fixes. I can't imagine there would be any appreciable contact between the beer and the tape. Just a couple of strips across the crack to keep it pulled together and call it good...

Cooling very quickly is nice and has its benefits, but not an absolute. As HH60gunner already mentioned, many practice a technique called "no chill" brewing that may be of interest to you until you decide to get a chiller. One point that has not been mentioned that I would like to add is to keep...

Are you stalking me? :D

1kg is 8 times what you need for priming! I am sure it was intended to be part of the fermentables. Do NOT use 1kg for priming please. For a 5 gal batch, you only need about 113 grams, or 4 oz. Not knowing the recipe, I can only speculate. But your finished beer will be a bit lower in alcohol...

You might get them to work...and might not. Like dgooden said, it would suck to find out you wasted 3 weeks waiting for your beer to carb only to find out they didn't work as expected....

I think you will see a resolution to your problem by chilling longer. But please post back what your results are so that others stumbling into to this thread might get some help from it as well.

Which is why I included this as my last line... So there! Neener neener boo boo! :p

Really? Sounds to me like he is transferring to secondary.....

My first question would be, "why are you using a secondary?" If you are going to dry-hop or add fruit, then that is a good idea. Otherwise, it is an unnecessary step. You would be better off leaving your beer in primary for a month, then kegging or bottling. With regards to your original...

Like they say, "Crush until you are scared". A lot of help huh? I have never heard of your mill, but run a handful of grain through and look at it. It is ok to see some flour, but not to the point that you start shredding husks.

Hey Klaus, No one is calling you out, so no worries. I agree with your summation as to the 86% assumption. I have had a few conversations with Brian at Duda Diesel and he seems to really know his stuff (His last name is Duda, so I guess he should know). Give him a ring and tell him what you have...

Yeah, that chiller just seems way too small for anyone doing a full boil.

The ports you use are irrelevant so long as you take your wort in on one end and the cooling water in on the other, which you state you have already done. The Therminator has 0.69 M^2 of total plate surface area as near as I can tell. The specs on your chiller says it has 18.6 in^2, or 0.012...

See below - This is correct. Chances are very good they will ruin your beer if they manage to get inside. Keep a check on your airlock and don't let it get dry.

As much as I hate to admit it, IP is pretty much correct. :D