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As soon as I realized I could make beer I was sold.

Since you live in Bryan check out Jacob's Well - they sell RO water for about $0.35 per gallon and you can bring a carboy or better bottle for filling. Far cheaper than the grocery store.

Right.....

Check out the wiki article: Evaluating the Crush - Home Brewing Wiki.

That carbonation is co2 produced by the yeast that has been dissolved into the beer. It is normal. Given time it will dissipate to an extent depending on the temperature.

+1 I made the extract version of Yooper's DFH 60 minute clone a while back. It turned out great, but not as good as the original. It was similar, but much of the complexity and depth that comes from the malt wasn't there.

It won't matter as soon as the yeast warms up it will start carbonating your bottles. So yes, relax and have a homebrew.

Stick a blow off tube on and your batch will be fine.

I had the same exact problem. All my extract brews finished at around 1.020. As soon as I moved to AG that problem was gone...

My best experiences have been from Brewmasters Warehouse hands down. Worst have been with MoreBeer by far. Midwest, NorthernBrewer and Austin Homebrew have all be good to me as well.

Not necessarily, the bubbling could be dissolved C02 escaping the liquid. So far, I have only used a secondary when I dry hop otherwise I skip it. Even then I leave the beer in primary 3 weeks then go 2 weeks in secondary with the hops in there 10 days. I recently switched this method when I...

Sounds like you stirred up some yeast when you transferred from primary to secondary or some of the CO2 dissolved in the liquid is finding its way out from the agitation. How long did you leave it in primary?

Same, I am a little jealous. I was surprised I could even find 90 minute in this town.

Use equal parts bleach and white vinegar 1 TBS of each per 5 gallons. Make sure to mix the bleach with the water then the vinegar. Don't mix them directly together or you will gas yourself.

Sounds about right to me.

Constantly adding hops to the boil, not leaving them in the whole time.

Nottingham is good yeast - my last brew with it was an IPA SMASH and in two days at 65-68*F notty brought gravity from 1.083 to 1.013 without a starter. I just rehydrated a pack. If you are getting 70%+ attenuation I wouldn't worry about active fermentation time.

The bags are reusable just rinse well. It might discolor but that isn't a big deal. I use a nylon paint strain bag from home depot. $5 for two and they work well in addition to being local. You can add the hops directly and strain. With 2 oz of hops it won't be an issue, but on larger hopped...

I just built a manifold and chose the design because if I choose to it will allow me to fly sparge, unlike a braid. On top of that I had a bit of copper laying around so it cost me about the same as a braid. False bottoms are pricey so I avoided that one.

I recently took the same crap off with Bar Keepers Friend. Took some elbow grease, but it is all gone now.