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As long as you bottled it asap!

Pasteurization happens in seconds @ 160F. No need to boil the snot out of everything. Sugar is dry, leaving out one of three things nasty's need to live & multiply. Namely, moisture. I boil 2C of water to add my weighed amount of priming sugar too. The water gets boiled for a couple minutes...

When I used/still use Cooper's cans, for example. I'll add a 3lb bag of plain (un-hopped) light DME to get a beer that's around 5%. You can use as little as 1lb or the 3lbs. Depends on how much flavor & ABV you want? :mug:

After chilling the wort down to 75F or so, I pour it through a fine mesh strainer into primary. This not only gets out a lot of hop/grain gunk. but helps aerate the wort as well. Then top off to recipe volume with spring water chilled a day or two before. This gets the wort down to 65F or so...

You can dry hop in secondary, but it isn't necessary if you don't want to. Many of us dry hop in primary after the beer is tested as being done fermenting, & settled out clear or slightly misty. anything still settling out allows the hop oils to coat them & go to the bottom as well.5 to 10 days...

I use the same 5 gallon SS kettle I started with. I do anything from quick AE pipeline fillers to AG recently. Brew In A Bag has been really handy. Anyway, by the time I mash & batch sparge, I wind up with 3.5 to 4 gallons in the boil. Generally, I shoot for 3.5 gallons. My beers have come out...

My adaptation of the English recipe for Mumme, originally dated 1695, was to use 2ozs spruce tips in the boil. I got this little bottle of Spruce essence, concentrated, on amazon for a couple bucks. About 1/4oz should equal about 2ozs of tips, as I was told by NB's chat. I'll be adding it to the...

If your steeping grains contain too much crystal/caramel or specialty malts, it'll retain some sweetness. Even when fully attenuated, since they contain more long-chain sugars the yeast can't metabolize.

I did a side-by-side test of rehydrated Cooper's ale yeast (6g packet) against US-05. The Cooper's was every bit as vigorous a fermenter. It's a high flocculation yeast that's derived from English, possibly wit bred. Gives a bit of non-descript fruity esters like English yeasts, & is best...

Just do partial mash, partial boil biab on the stove. Works very well, & I've been doing it for about 2 years now. I do everything from AE to smaller AG. The small AG is soon changing to AG/PB BIAB, however.

Auto siphons can be a pain. I turn my spigot's spout sideways when laying them on the floor or similar. I only used the auto siphon for my BB. But the other day, I had to store 4 gallons of wort in my BK/MT covered with a lid & plastic bag overnight. So Instead of trying to lift the heavy kettle...

After a second look at these, this looks a bit more like coagulated proteins stuck in that spigot? IE-cold break. It always looked like wet popcorn to me? Neat filter idea...hadn't thought of that. That's another reason I like this place. Good old 'Murican ingenuity!:mug:

John Todd?...any relation to Sweeny? :D Seriously though, I'd like to have a pressure fryer as well. That, & some X-99 I used to have a link for.

I had one of my spigots plug like this once. And that was due to my own impatience. The rest of the time, hardly anything gets through to the bottling bucket.

I totally agree! The spigots have to be cleaned after every use, every part of'em. The seals & mounting hole too. Then dunked in Starsan & re-assembled wet. I also use a large, fine mesh strainer to strain all the hop gunk, etc out of the chilled wort & aerate it going into primary. This makes...

After reading chapter 4, " Health Matters" of " Mastering The Art Of Making Sausage", I got a new perspective on pathogens & chemicals used to help prevent them from reproducing, which produces deadly toxins as a by-product. As in the case of E. Coli & Botulism. It's not so much the spores...

Adding extract, usually LME's in my case, is fine since pasteurization happens in seconds @ 160F. And since the wort is still boiling hot at flame out, Bob's your uncle. LME's caramelize, or darken due to maillard reactions more readily than DME's do. So I always use the DME's in the boil & save...

I agree wit popping the lid to have a look. If there's krausen on top, it's fermenting. If there's a ring of crud around the top level of the liquid, it's past initial fermentation, & finishing up. :mug:

There was one in NY that listed them, but they were out of stock...

I do no more than .3oz to .5 oz bittering in IPA's. but a load of hops, 8 to 10 ounces at times. Flavor hop additions @ 20 minutes down to8 1/2 with a few ounces dry hop 7 days.