Search results

Assuming its an 11g pack simply rehydrate it and pitch, you'll be fine

That would be odd........ Brewing AG for 5 years and over 200 batches I've never had a batch that absorbed more water than the normal .12 gallons per pound, my guess is you erred in your sparge water volume or left behind more than you think.

Perhaps the grain bed is settling too hard by the time you get your sparge water going, perhaps the fine sediment is settling in your braid, just a thought since you state no problems with your first runnings

+1 The D rest should usually take place as the beer is just a few points off final gravity and then allowed to finish, at 3 weeks I'd too say your a bit late. If you taste the beer and taste no diacetyl then your golden, so forget the rest and slowly drop the temp to just above freezing and...

Are you sure you just didn't get a stuck sparge since you fell short on the pre boil volume and had more wort left in the tun, it happens. I use .12 gallons per pound

http://www.dennybrew.com Denny Conn's Site, everything you need to know about batch sparging from equipment to process!

58oF is too cold and warming it up will probably do the trick. At two months old you most likely underpitched as well, should have made a starter. As a side note and not to flame you but not checking gravity is just bad practice and makes it difficult to develop any sort of consistency in your...

First off, FG numbers on a recipe are a guideline, estimate only based upon what the software determines and may not be the actual result. Second, at 1.004 I would correlate that to low mash temps and highly fermentable wort or poor recipe design. Mash pH is important for proper conversion. If...

Typically most people that do BIAB crush finer than those that traditionally mash so I might suggest you back off the crush a bit and see if that helps, it shouldn't take that long to sparge/lauter. I would also suggest rice hulls, you can even go up to a lb for a 10 gallon batch.

My .02, if you don't have a base water profile, don't go crazy trying to match a profile because it's a crap shoot. The water primer stickie is a good place to start. Simply, a bit of gypsum to raise the sulfates will accentuate the hops and provide a perceived "crispness" to the beer and...

I thought you were looking to brew a "session" beer? A session beer would be int he range of 4.5-5.5% ABV, at 7% you are no longer in the range of a session beer..........

(!) Not happy with the responses........? I'll assume you already are accounting for a lower efficiency with a maxed out capacity on the mash. IMO you can add the sugar if you want and mash at 152 to keep the sugar from drying out the beer but its a guess, just make sure you're pitching a...

ok, do you have a recipe? without a recipe who knows if sugar would help or not or even mash temp. If you are looking for a well balanced slightly malty finish you would mash higher to achieve an FG around 1.012-4 maybe? Mash temp of 152oF perhaps maybe higher? Kind of a tough question to...

Here's a good site to calculate a mash: http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml

Not sure I understand, you want to brew 10 gallons or have a MT of 10 gallons. A 10 gallon cooler MT will handle about 23# of grain which is more than enough grain for a 1.055 OG. If you want to brew 10 gallons you need a kettle at least 15 gallons in size or two separate kettles to split the...

You don't have a time limit for your FWH and that could be throwing off the calculations but IME every calculator will figure things a bit differently.

There is no way you lost a gallon of wort to a pound or pound + of hops. Somewhere your measurements or readings are off during the process.

Since it has sat around for 5 years in whatever conditions it is probably quite dry and the wood has shrunk. Fill it with water and let it sit and swell so it doesn't leak. As for infection, most likely there are already some bugs in there since there has been no alcohol in it for some time. I...

I don't use quick connectors at and I have heard that they tend to restrict flow a lot! That could very well be your issue in transferring. They are plugging up.

So you start by figuring out your losses. Fill your tun with a fixed amount of water and drain, see what's left and measure it, note it. Boil a fixed amount of water over an hour and then measure what you have left, note your boil off rate. Then drain your kettle, if you don't simply dump...