Search results

My 10 gal Rubbermaid made a pop and then a 3 inch buldge the first time I used it, but hasn't been an issue. It will hold 150 temps for over an hour with 1-2 degree drop at most.

Indeeed! Is this the Hop Bomb kit from AHS? I saw a similar recipe using leaf hops instead of pellets, I think it was called Hop Sludge, cause that is what is left after your boil!! Congrats on your 1st AG!!

The numbers after the grain are the Lovibond which refers to the color or roasting characteristic of the grain. The bigger the number the darker the grain and more roasted it is. As for the enzymes, most of the 2-row are now heavily modified. Meaning the enzymes are already present and ready...

+1 AG +1 keg I have been thinking about brewing for a long time, taking notes from my friend and his AG techniques, I slowly pieced together everything I needed to start brewing with AG and kegging. It did cost a few bucks to get everything, the propane burner, IC, MLT made with a 10 gal...

Very good point! Glass in wort = bad!! Do most usually take a reading right after the boil? I guess to see what your effeciency is right?

As long as its not too hot and gonna melt anything why bother cooling it? Seems like a lot of fuss when there are calcs that adjust your gravity for temp. Here is one that I use and it has a bunch of other calcs too... BrewCalcs: Free Homebrewing Calculations Specifically the Hydrometer...

Here is the thread on making a 10 gal cooler MLT. I did and it works great! https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/cheap-easy-10-gallon-rubbermaid-mlt-conversion-23008/

I recently did my first AG batch...actually it was my first batch ever and I wanted to be able to do 'big' beers right outa the gates. I went and purchased a 10 gal cooler from Home Depot($34 + another $8 for the fittings) and basically followed the steps in this thread...

Same here. You have to look around if you don't see them on the floor. The HD by me had them up on a palate 20' up on the rack.