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I found some other threads with the same info. Next question: Is there a magic low temperature to hit to achieve the purpose of the cold crash but not harm the yeast, or at least leave the proper amount in suspension for proper carbonation?

I just acquired a (FREE) chest freezer that will become my new fermentation chamber. This will also allow me to cold crash, which I have never been able to do in the past. Question: assuming that I am going to bottle, will cold crashing cause all of the yeast to drop out so that I cannot...

I have not used the honey malt but it is difficult to get the flavor from the real honey as it is highly fermentable and the aroma is fairly volatile. Check around the site for various methods to achieve the desired results.

Since this really does not fit into a standard category, looking for advice on carbonation level. Although if "may" go a bit lower, current stats: FG 1.014, 7% ABV, cinnamon/clove/mace added to boil, WLP500, dark amber color. I am thinking moderate to low carbonation, but not sure with the...

Sounds like a need to do an experiment...calibrate a couple of different thermometers using the freezing point and then test them at the local boiling point. I need to ask for a fancy digital thermometer with remote waterproof probe for christmas.

I use the ice bath method...half crushed ice and half water, let it equalize and you should have 32 degrees F or 0 degrees C. As Martin said, boiling point is too variable to be reliable. If you use a second thermometer, you somehow have to make sure that it too is calibrated.

Just a friendly reminder to calibrate often. I brewed a pumpkin ale a couple of weeks ago and mashed at 153 degrees, or so I thought. Last night, while I was boiling wort for a starter I decided to calibrate all of the thermometers, including the one I use for brewing. It was reading 2...

I have not begun milling my own grain but plan to soon...what do you mean by conditioning? I assume you lightly spray the grain to get it to swell, presumably to aid in removing the husk, or keeping it in tact.

I brewed a honey stout and it seems to have a background sort of tart flavor. It is not apparent in every sip. It is a taste that I noticed in several beers brewed by a friend who only used extract kits. Basically this is a milk stout to which I added 2lbs of honey at flameout. OG was...

I use the Blichmann burner for 5 gallon batches (10g BK) and usually get 3-4 brew sessions from a tank. That also includes heating my mash water and 60-90 minute boils. I usually don't push it until the tank runs dry but I keep a second tank handy just in case.

I think some of my best beers were the ones that bottling was delayed and they spent longer than intended in the carboy. I have a milk stout now that has been in the primary for 4 weeks and will likely spend at least two more in there and possibly 3 for a total of 6-7 weeks in the primary.

This is actually a very interesting question and discussion. The first thing I notice when I pour a commercial beer is the head, or lack thereof, and retention. No head or very poor (unless that is appropriate for the style) makes me question the quality of the beer and the brewer. This...

I'll have to run the numbers, but that is pretty awesome efficiency for your first AG brew. I think my first few were in the 55% range. I am consistently in the 70-80% range now. I would say that there are many other variables such as mash temp, technique, sparge, etc. Good job.

Agree on the 157F for 60 minutes. I did a smoked porter of my own design and mashed at 156 for 60 minutes, then mash out, batch sparge. It was an awesome beer with good body. I like to do a higher mash temp for porters and stouts to give them that extra body that you expect with those flavors...

Sue, not sure what other animals you have but my chicken go crazy over the spent grains. They will scratch for days to get every last bit. For anyone else looking for a way to get rid of spent grains, get yourself a few chickens. They dispose of your grains and you get eggs and meat. You...

Sounds like a good plan. If I end up with a lower gravity beer, I am good with that. If I end of with a poor quality beer, I am not. I guess this is another good reason to have my own mill.

I purchased grain in May, had it milled, and then moved before I could use it. It has been sealed in two plastic bags, inside of a sealed bucket, in my basement (never above 72 F) since then. My basement is finally starting to cool down and I hope to brew some beer soon. Is this grain still...

Common sense was in place. Just trying to piece this all together. I never would have given it a second thought until I read Mosher's book. I was curious why it is possible to brew outside without ill effects. I was not sure if I would get an answer like, don't brew in direct sunlight if...

Thanks for all the great info. After the first couple of replies I thought I was crazy, but then I remembered where I got the info. In Randy Mosher's book, "Tasting Beer", (page 61), he states in regards to the skunky aroma, "Formed by a reaction of a precursor in hop bittering compounds...

It is my understanding that the skunking was due to a chemical reaction with the hops. Is this accurate or not? If so, what role does yeast play in the reaction? I guess my nerdiness is showing on this one... In the end, all that matters is that I don't have to worry about it.