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The two berliners I've made I did a single decoction (135F->149F). Ran off about 5.5 gallons into my kettle, then ran 4gallons into a carboy, pitched US-05 once it was down around room temp. Ran off the other 1.5 gallons into a 2 gallon plastic bucket and added a half pound of uncrushed malt...

2 months is already too old for hefeweizen, some IPAs, and a few other things.

I am constantly moving around and brewing under different conditions so it varies a lot. Anywhere from 4-6 hours, usually pretty close to 5. Hoping some increased preparedness , a new plate chiller, and a new burner will get me consistently around 4.

1. Do all math beforehand. 2. Visualize and run through the whole process beforehand (specific to your equipment) 3. Have all your needed equipment ready at hand. 4. Calibrate thermometers, be precise with water volumes and temps. 5. Take notes on EVERYTHING. Essentially, be well prepared...

Not that I'm saying a "drinking month" is a bad idea, but you can plan it right by making different kinds of beer, so that you don't have to drink everything at the same time. Nobody likes an old hefe. So make some barleywines other impys. Or plan it so everything IS ready at the same time and...

Well, as a general rule, natural chemical reactions work faster as temp increases, and this holds true for mashes. When mashing high conversion will happen much faster. So technically speaking you will probably have a lower SG at a really low mashing temp if you don't compensate and mash longer.

Also consider all the malty belgians that use sugar. They may not be thick on the palate, but that doesn't mean they aren't malty. Wee Heavy is a completely different style though. Note: There are multiple Roasted Barleys. Briess offers a "Roasted Barley" at 300L, while most British maltsters...

You kegged after 8 days? That's kinda quick, although I have heard Edwort's Pale is ready pretty quick. I'd still give it a few more days but maybe that's just me.

Is there any science behind this? Commercially breweries are extracting 90+ and some of them are making some damn fine beer.

+3500. I have spread among pots before, slightly annoying but pretty easy. If you just have a little extra you can add in as you go too.

I'd go with 3-4 oz of dry hopping. I dry hopped an IPA of similar gravity with only 2 oz and wish I had done more.

you tasted it?

I'm still not sure when one needs to use it. Can someone explain? You don't have to do it with all oats right? Not flaked oats, yes? What if I used quick oats? With wheat? I have no clue what I'm doing when it comes to wheat.

I'd just make sure you don't have any galvanized (zinc-plated) stuff in there.

yea, I didn't really use any of those though. I tried to avoid things anything with give with the exception of the o-ring that came with the cooler.

it took me a long time to get mine to stop leaking too. The best I can tell you is use teflon tape wherever possible, even on the outside where pieces meet. Also, tighten the bejeezus out of everything.

:off: Can you direct me to the recipe you used? I very much want to clone this beer. I have seen several very different recipes out there

You'll be fine eyeballing it UNLESS you aren't putting them back together after the boil. If you're fermenting and bottling separately, you'll probably want more precision in equaling them out.

So my main reason for making SMASHs is to isolate a grain & a hop to learn more about their flavor/aroma characteristics. Although they can be tasty too. Since I have an affinity for brewing lots of stouts/porters/etc, I was thinking about how one could try to isolate the flavors of individual...

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