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I'm not fond of Cascade for bittering. I might do an ounce at 60 or FWH and move the other two ounces later in the boil, perhaps as a whirlpool addition.

Re-reading this post 2 months later, I had another idea: brew an extract batch of IPA. I would also like to see a few of OP's IPA hop schedules. I still think water is the culprit.

My long-shot guess: Breiss Roasted Barley. I call it "stout ruiner." It is much too light for a traditional English or Irish roasted barley. Breiss makes a Black Barley that is much more appropriate for stout.

Agreed...for extract-only (no steeping), wheat is good. You could also look at the Briess Munich extract or NB or Williams Rye extract. Focus on your hops and yeast...it will be good.

I, too, think you should do a batch with 100% RO treated with CACL and gypsum. RO is only $.39/gallon at my local grocery. The other idea I have is oxidation. Your hoppy beers might be the only ones you are dry hopping, and the extra handling could introduce some unwanted oxygen.

I just put a new SMaSH into the fermenter. Vienna/Cascade. Here's the catch: I only used FWH and flameout hops (i.e. no direct heat during any hop additions). We'll see if it pays off! 10 lbs Bestmalz Vienna Preboil gravity: 1.040 OG: 1.050 2 oz Cascade 5.5% FWH 3 oz Cascade 5.5% at...

I really like silicone tubing. Every few batches, I boil it to guarantee sanitation.

Bargainfittings.com is a great source for this kind of setup. Contact the owner if you need advice...I'm sure he'd be happy to custom-build something for you.

Recipe? That will make commenting easier. My guess is 1) you used extract or 2) HBS swapped a grain on you.

I know that feel, bro. I started using RO water because I was having so much trouble with my basic water.

I'm replying to ask OP to comment on the results, 2 years later.

What was you OG and hopping schedule? This might be my next pale batch.

I'm drinking a Munich II Hallertau SMaSH that is intense. I don't think I will use 100% Munich II again...I finally have difinitive proof of what malty means. Next up: Vienna. Still deciding on the hop.

I like to lightly dry hop my English ales to simulate cask conditions. From whay I understand, many brewers throw a small amount of leaf or plug hops into the cask as it is sealed. I think an ounce of each is a bit heavy, but it's your beer! On my 1.050 premium bitter (recipe sent to me from...

There's a VERY good thread on British strains and yeast behavior. The idea is that many of these strains are tuned to cask conditioning. When you transfer the beer for packaging, the small exposure to oxygen (or just agitation) re-activates a small fermentation that would normally be useful in...

I can't account for the difference in the instructions. I say you should use 60 minute bittering additions in both AG and extract. 2 things... 1) Bell's Best Brown is one of my favorite autumn beers. 2) This recipe (extract version) didn't get me very close to it. It was also my first...

I went from extract plus steeping to all grain, then backed up to partial mash. Something was wrong with my process. I'm a very happy partial mash brewer now. All I did was worry when I went all grain. FWIW, I only use DME instead of LME now. It is a much better product, in my experience...

That's a lot of chocolate! If you don't need to use everything listed, here's an idea...You have about what you need to make a version of my Christmas Tree Ale. BU:GU 0.75-0.80 8# 2 Row 2 oz Chocolate Malt 4oz Victory 8oz Crystal 80L 4oz Carafoam Mash at 150-152 Bitter with 1...

Crystal malt is partially fermentable, so I wouldn't add it after final gravity is reached. Also, adding the crystal late in the fermentation is a non-reproducible variable. If the beer comes out great, you'll never likely repeat it again.

I wouldn't add anything. You'll have a good beer! It might even become your new house recipe! For an IPA, I would advise against maltodextrin. You want that IPA nice and dry.