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Make a platform to get the freezer's lid up to the bar top surface and them mount the surface to the freezer lid rather than the bar. Or at least a section of the bar surface. It kind of sucks to have to lift the whole thing.

You can put the pics directly in the thread by using the little picture icon above the text window or by adding IMG tags (the picture button adds them automatically) but you want the link to be directly to the picture, for example I right click on the image and copy the image address. Nice cobra...

Consider the thermal mass of all that brass or steel, which is going to sit at ambient room temps. It takes a lot of beer flow to cool it. The insulation will help it retain it's cool but only after at least a pint or 2 flows through it. The advantage of a long shank is not just to go through a...

search for Ale Camino, there's a story on it somewhere.

A problem with your setup is those really long shanks sitting out in the warm air. When cold beer hits a long warm shank it's going to foam until the shank is cooled. Longer lines will slow the flow but I think short shanks are the real solution.

It can just sit flat but the tabs (inner or outer) make it more secure, and centered. Powderocating is typically baked on at around 400˚ and your burner temps will probably scorch the PC, unless it's a high temp rated PC. If it were me I'd consider using the stand a bit before finishing it...

Sorry to hear the bad news. Same thing happened to me when drilling a freezer I just scored from craigslist. $100 in the toilet, plus the expense of buying a new freezer. The labor from a repair person is almost always more than the cost of a new one, unless you have a refrigerant friend. I...

The handle is ceramic and it's glued and screwed into the brass base. I cut a couple off with a band saw, then drilled and tapped the brass part to take a 3/8-16 stud. It worked out fine. You could also buy a replacement for the brass part at micromatic but I had time and tools so I did it myself.

I use a single blower fan with 2 tubes sending cold air from the bottom of the freezer into the top of my 2 towers and it works well. I don't even run it full speed. I got the fan kit on ebay but I think it makes a big difference between a normal blade fan and a blower (squirrel cage) for...

The gas line and length has no significance on the foaming. The temp co2 is stored at can affect it's pressure, though. Are you sure you have the same pressure on the keg? could the gauge be stuck? How long were you using the setup at said pressure? Did anything else happen to your beverage...

I agree that you are going to have problems unless you use at least forced air cooling of the lines and tower, or glycol. The lines will need to be insulated. Cold beer and warm lines and faucets = foam, and lots of it.

If the top does not come off, it's probably a loss, unless you want to cut the top off and make a cap. It's tough enough to get the lines on and all the parts in place with the top off. Tower shanks have the curved piece to fit the round tower. earthbound: thanks! it's been a labor of love.

They look like an added top. Ones I have seen in bars look like an afterthought, they have screws on the side. You could drill 2 more holes and buy 2 shanks. It gets tight in there but it works fine. You will want a shank wrench, it gets in there where a normal wrench wont. I made my own. Here...

I'm sure the bev air cooler is loud, so having the built in could be a much quieter solution, and better looking, depending on your skills. The cooler you can take with you, while the built in will be most likely a problem when/if you sell the house. Can the bev air even get down in to the basement?

You can drill that tower for 2 more holes fairly easily. Most likely it's chrome plated brass. I did this to a few towers. You will need the tower shanks, and you will need a tower shank wrench, or you can make your own wrench. It's very tight in there. Measure twice before drilling. Realize the...

Not to mention you can usually buy individual sockets/wrenches etc peicemeal rather than having to buy a set.

Those T nuts are designed to be on the other side of a part, where the threads pull the spikes into the part. I doubt they are going to have much strength in a typical tap handle situation. The inserts typically have rough wood type threads on the outside that pull them selves into the part.

Put the open end towards the other nut. If your wrench is too deep (thick) you might have to grind it down on one side (the side that will face the nut) so that it's thinner, there may be too much relief before the flats of the wrench. You don't have much room to work here so don't figure that...

There are some shanks that are 1 1/16. I built the same wrench after seeing one at micromatic's website. Another cheap place to find individual odd wrenches is pawn shops.

I've tried this, it does work well. It's nicer than bead blast on soft metals like aluminum. I've considered getting another small blast cabinet just for soda.