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I think the firmware of an Arduino should be able to handle this... the best part is that PID circuits will automatically adjust if they miss a cycle because that element was not priority and another one was on... here is 'ascii-art' of NAND gates to give priority:

I used the acronym PWM very loosely since it is common on this forum... Yes, you are technically correct it is pulse count modulation... Think about it, any zero-crossing SSR connected to a PWM source instantly becomes PCM..... draw it out on a piece of paper. I think this is how they can...

kind of... it is PWM, it delivers 100% of the power for 30% of the time period, which I think is 2 seconds, so it is on for .6 seconds and off for 1.4 seconds.. If you are looking to hook it up to a 10Amp circuit, you might just burn your house down... please don't burn your house down...

Plusultra - PID is not for the boil, you do not temperature control a boil kettle, you power control it with PWM... The PID is likely for a HLT or RIMS that needs temperature control, but theoretically, they could be using it for something else and we should not go down that road unless...

Here is my setup, DSPR400 running a 15 gallon still for making Gin. I have standard 10A 120v coil relays powered by the DSPR's internal 3A relays. need to put in some circuit breakers to keep magic smoke from escaping, but it works great... Only using one of the relays at the moment, to turn on...

The BCS is independent of any county's main voltage, it runs on 6V DC. The supplied power transformer may or may not be compatible with 230V. I have owned one since 2011 and have used it on 240V US using a non-BCS transformer.

personally, if I did it over, I would use 3/4" tri-clover on every single tube in a 5-15 gallon system... I used a lot of 1" tri-clover with 5/8" ID tube , because that was what was cheap for me years ago... now that I can get 3/4" stuff in three different pipe sizes from places like...

Fred - Yep... CD and Dash1... processhead - Inspector has not seen it yet, final electric should be next week or week after, the panel is UL listed, and the components are all listed.. no, the assembly is not, but then again, neither is a junction box in your wall with a light switch in...

If you have a 40A SSR, a ~23A element, and a 25A CB, I think you are good, but I cannot guarantee that... I know I blew two without a CB, and none since with a 30A one... I would think it would take a lot more than 46A to blow a 40A SSR that has a heat sink... ~46A is the current you would...

If you have a 25A circuit breaker like the drawing says, overcurrent should not have fried it, I have personally smoked 2 SSR's in a row due to an internally shorted boil kettle element (I think it was actually shorted to ground sheath inside the element) and not having circuit breakers. I...

some folks put a magnesium anode in the HLT (or all three vessels), I bought them a few years back but never installed... and I agree with tri-clamp fittings for ripple elements, it makes them so easy...

50A 3-phase feeding 3 5500W elements in a Delta configuration, and phase C, the 208V-to-neutral high-leg of the three phase, has a 30A circuit to each of the other two elements, 4125W each... total of almost 25KW of power... The panel has no other electronics in it, the local inspector...

I think your wiring looks good, I would add a 30 A fuse/CB to each leg to protect SSR in case of internally shorted element (I saw the smoke 2x in a row!) if you already have one in the breaker box, you are good, but if it is 40 or 50, you are not... may want to have some higher amperage pump...

You can get everything in the pic for $31... and they work great.... I like auber's stuff, they make great stuff... but if you are cost conscious, you cannot go wrong with this... and you can buy a spare pot and SSVR and still spend less... http://www.stilldragon.com/diy-controller.html

While powered and intended to pulse, check voltage between G and the other side of the closest resistor, R4. (this is pin three, but you are less likely to short against pin 2 or 4 accidentally. I - If this voltage pulses, then the board is good except for the power transistor... remove it...

well, your 555 could be fried due to heat or static, the cap could be bad or incorrect, there could be hair of solder making contact between two things that shouldn't... a picture shows us what we are dealing with... they say it is worth a thousand words ;-)

post an in-focus and decent-resolution picture or two... I bet someone can pick out your issue... it is not rocket science...

stilldragon.com has 40A ones dirt cheap... look for the DIY controller, it is the SSR in that, but might as well get the whole kit, $30 or so and you get everything you need for variable boil... I know several friends with them, everyone of them is very happy... buy a spare if you are not a...

Obviously you should consult a certified electrician if you have any doubts, that is one of the foundations of the electric brewing forum. That being said, A 240V GFCI has a the extra wire on the actual breaker in the panel, if it detects that current goes anywhere but in one of the legs and...

FYI, I will never go back to gas...I have welded in 20+ ferrules for people like passedpawn, a spare element is like a spare tank of gas... you should have it... if you have a circuit breaker with a lower rating than your SSR and have a proper heatsink with some ventilation, you will 99% never...