Search results

I’d turn off the chiller and let it rise to your room temperature and see what happens. If it’s done, you’ll know.

Your final gravity is too high, I’m thinking it’s not going to be all that pleasant to drink. Sorry if this has been asked and I missed it, but is there any chance you are using a refractometer and not getting an accurate reading? If it’s accurate, I’d brew a dry stout and add Amalyse enzyme...

What was the batch size? It would be interesting to divide a batch into 2 fermenters and pitch the Apex in one and another brand of the same strain in the other and see what happens… :tank:

I usually brew a bunch of lagers this time of year for summer drinking and always start off with a smaller, 1.5 to 2 gallon batch. Then the whole yeast slurry goes into a 5 gallon batch. Then I pitch half into the next batch and save the rest for making starters. After 6-7 runs, I have enough...

Wonder if Brulosphy would do an exbeeriment with dry WL vs us-05 and see if anyone can notice the difference in a triangle test?

Just noticed in my email, N. Brewer now has White Labs dry Cal Ale yeast, but it’s $12. If you were in sales, what would you say to a brewer to persuade them to spend more for this yeast compared to all the other dry yeast choices out there. I used to use all WL liquid yeast, but the cost has...

Hydrometer error?

You’re on the right track, build up a large, healthy amount of yeast for your quad. I’d save a quart of the slurry for a yeast bank and dump the rest into the quad.

Some strains are more reliable/bulletproof than others. Of course your yeast handling and sanitation methods are going to be a factor. You can extend your yeast by Saving a couple quarts of slurry from the first batch and then pitch about half of each quart into the next batch. Another...

The plastic used in those 5 gallon jugs isn't meant for brewing or alcohol use, but having said that, I've used them and it works ok. Look on your local craigslist or FB marketplace for cheap used equipment, but actually a brand new carboy isn't very expensive and many online retailers are...

If your method works for 20+ times, why not stick with it? My 2 cents: You're over-thinking it and over working yourself. As prices have escalated and my brewing time has diminished, I've turned away from liquid yeast (not totally) and just keep things simple with dry yeast. With dry yeast and...

Why not just transfer to a corny keg? What are you gaining by not doing that? Or, if you really want to ferment/serve in a keg, just use a corny keg? (cut back the dip tube about 1.5")

Yeah, I was exaggerating on purpose.....I still can't believe they think home brewers are going to accept that price. So the bottle yeast is still viable on all Sierra Nevada? You hardly see it in the stores anymore around here.

$12.95 for Cal Ale yeast? Does Sierra Nevada still bottle condition? You could buy a 6 pack, get buzzed, and then dump the dregs into a 1 gallon batch of homebrew and be good to go by the time you sobered up..... :bott:

Been brewing lagers for many years and don't have a clue how many billion cells I've got. But I am a little more careful with my yeast for lagers. I'll use a whole pack in a 2.5 gallon batch, then pitch the whole slurry from the first batch into the next full size batch, sometimes I'll save...

So the only reason I was suggesting checking your mash temp more often was to see what your heat loss is. By stirring and checking your temperature, you are actually causing more heat loss. What works for me is to hit my mash temp and then walk away, go do something else. When you heat the...

If you are getting consistent FG of 1.020, it may be your mashing procedure. Here are some suggestions: -Check your thermometer, maybe get a new one. -Stir the mash every 15 minutes and check the temperature. If you are losing temperature, maybe you need to insulate your BIAB vessel better...

I've saved yeast for years with mixed results. Some beer yeasts, like WL500 seem to be pretty bulletproof, producing expected results over many brews. Some Lager yeasts are also very reliable. SF lager yeast is another one I've kept for a long time. But others get funky after a while. After...

I'd make 2 batches and then blend the results to suit your taste. Also, if making 2 separate batches, you can save the yeast and use it in another batch. Interesting that some breweries are using S-33 and T-58 together, thanks for posting!

I'll go out on a limb here and predict that at the homebrew level, if you made two starters, one with my lazy-ass no oxygen, no nutrient no stirplate, 10.040-ish wort, jug with an airlock method and the other starter with the complicated method discussed here, that you won't be able to tell the...