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You can buy an almost identical thing in kit form from StillDragon - here - for $41. Add the switch linked above, and you have power control on the kettle, pretty much as for gas. Add the Brew Hardware weldless TC port kit, and a stainless element, and you are pretty much there.

I think this will do it to a fair approximation, as long as you have a good wort calibration factor for your refractometer and take care with zero point calibration and measurement. Beersmith has a tool for calculating it, and there are several online, as well as a nonogram (graphical method...

It's not exactly "revisit" in the UK. Most pubs already serve good local beer by cask and handpump. It's mostly just the big internationally owned lagers, Guinness that suffer from this, although there are many smaller US style craft beer breweries now as well.

Two key things have to be right: Firstly, the chiller has to be hooked up the right way round. Cold tap water goes into the end that you want cooled wort to come out of. Hot tap water comes out the end that hot wort goes into. Secondly, the chiller has to be full of water, with no air...

IMO, to get the best Kölsch, you'll have to go to Cologne and Brauerei Päffgen (not Brauerei Pfaffen) where it's served on gravity from the barrel. Not helpful, I know...

It's certainly not worth visiting. For anyone going to Portland: go to Foundation/Battery Steel/Austin Street - all in the same building, all with outdoor seating on the tap rooms. There's also a distillery in the same building. Allagash is across the street and Definitive Brewing will be...

Cans of beer almost certainly can't follow the temperature of the air during a cooling cycle in the fridge very closely, because they have significant thermal mass. I find it typically takes tens of hours to cool a beer can to fridge temperature, so the thermal mass is probably high enough to...

Yes, but the freezing point of a 4.8% solution of alcohol in water is -2C, 28.5F, and 6.8% is -3C, 26.6F, which should be well below the temperatures in a fridge, unless you are storing the beer cans right under the air inlet in a fridge freezer that works by blowing cold air into the fridge...

That shouldn't affect the temperature at all, unless the beer is actually freezing.

One possibility: ICarbonation changes for quite a while after the beer is cooled, as dissolved CO2 gets into equilibrium with carbonic acid. This might be affected by storage temperatures and the amount of CO2 in solution in the can, and can take weeks to settle down. Another option: it may be...

I started brewing when I was legal to do so at 18, and am now brewing at 39, so the average age of this homebrewer is around 29. I brew what I need to to keep the two kegs, one cask (winter only) and four cases of bottles full. And add some mead or cheese making if I need to fill in the gaps.

I used to get at least 5 5gal batches out of a propane tank. Going electric means I can brew in a >50F basement, rather than a <25F garage, just next to a utility sink. And also just next to the fermentation chamber, so I don't need to carry a full fermenter more than 5 feet. The grain...

I put initial details here, where I was just using two standard Speidel spigots - one on the top and one as the tap. I've just started secondary on a newer version using Jaybird's stainless Speidel fittings, as discussed here, to put a ball-lock post and pressure relief valve on the top port...

The buckets used in the UK are normally polypropylene, not polyethylene. PP has a significantly higher softening point. And generally the buckets are white and marked food safe. And they definitely aren't Home Depot buckets, because we have a different brand of large orange DIY store - B&Q.

A month seems a little bit too long as a minimum to my understanding, gleaned from years of talking to the brewers at Milton (just north of Cambridge) and Harvey and Sons (Lewes), and my friend who has run the Cambridge Beer Festival for the past ten years (I am British, btw). I think they...

How long do you think bitter needs to condition? It only takes me about 10 days, grain to glass.

English Mild. Should be drinking in 7 to 10 days.

I think lots of people are suggesting they see NEIPAs darken with oxidation, although haze dropping out would also make the beer look darker.

It's almost never used. IME, NEIPAs are often quite dry, with FGs of 1.010 or so, and lactose would increase the FG substantially. They have body due to hop oils, and chloride vs sulfate content. Flaked oats add a smooth mouth feel. But they aren't sweet in the way lactose would make them.

If you have good temperature control, you can do the Brulosophy rapid lager process with lager yeast, and turn around a lager in 21 days. http://brulosophy.com/methods/lager-method/