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I'm going a little crazy with the same problem a lot of people in this thread have described. I'm ~120 batches in and this is my first time experiencing it. I've had a pretty strong plastic taste in my last 4 or so batches, the flavor comes on about 3 seconds after taking a sip. The weird...

Good point on losing some beer volume. I usually do a 6 oz dry hop for American IPA's and 6-8 oz for Northeast IPA's

@mongoose33 I'm thinking about getting a Big Mouth Bubbler and trying out this set up. Do you ever have issues with trub or hop sediment getting into the keg? I am particularly concerned with IPAs that have an ~8 oz dry hop. I could imagine propping the fermenter up a few inches right...

Brewing this up this weekend... Building on my success with the Simcoe/Cetennial/Amarillo combo, but I plan to make a few differences from my typical west coast IPA. I'm adding a bit of crystal for some more maltiness, trying out Amarillo Lupomax, using American instead of English yeast, and...

Really glad to see this thread! Here is my take on several aspects of brewing a modern west coast IPA. Not saying any of this is right, its just where my head is currently at, hopefully it can spur some conversation. Grain: I've been using 80% 2 row, 20% Vienna although I'd like to start...

Enter it under 29A Fruit Beer, don't make my same mistake! I entered a Peach Mango Milkshake IPA under 21B Specialty IPA and part of the both of the BJCP certified judge's noted "its mis-entered - it should be in 29A because of the fruit addition" and "would do better as a fruit beer". I...

Since you asked, BJCP lists characteristics of oxidized beer as "stale, papery, cardboard" and lists these possible solutions: "Check for oxygen being introduced into beer post-fermentation. Don't splash when racking/bottling. Check caps and/or keg seals for good fit. Purge bottles/kegs with CO2...

if you're ok with oxygen exposure that's fine, but the purpose of this thread is to discuss methods of avoiding it since it will negatively impact your beer (particularly hoppy styles).

This would only prevent airlock liquid from getting sucked back, but what you really want to avoid is air getting sucked back. Air can definitely travel through a cotton ball or rag so I wouldn't recommend this method.

I don't. They come completely flat, almost like they're vacuum sealed, so you have to cut a little notch off the end to stick your tube inside. I would rather not introduce any oxygen to the inside of the balloon when trying to sanitize it, so I just use it as is. No negative impacts to my beer.

Can't give you an exact number, but I use these mylar balloons: https://www.amazon.com/AKIO-CRAFT-Balloons-Metallic-Decorations/dp/B07DHKTVVZ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=mylar+balloon&qid=1580934891&sr=8-1 If I fill one up completely, crashing from 70 to 38 degrees will take about half the CO2 out of...

+5 West Coast IPA +5 Blonde Ale +5 Grapefruit IPA +5 Red Ale 1956 + 20 = 1976

I've been researching solutions to this problem for a while now. I was really surprised to learn that 1 to 2 liters of air can get sucked back into the carboy, and that the masons jars used in the co2 harvester setup are probably not big enough to prevent oxygen from getting in. The...

I really like the Trillium Melcher Street clone, which uses 3 oz of Columbus in the whirlpool, and then 1.5 oz Columbus and 6 oz Mosaic in the dry hop. You could sub the Mosaic with El Dorado, Ekuanot, or Azacca.

I wanted to share a gruit(ish) beer that I recently made. I've been interested in the style for a long time but never took the plunge, mostly because I couldn't land on the types of quantities of herbs to use in the boil. So I took a small step towards a gruit and decided to "dry hop" a wild...

I think the oak is probably fine to use but I would not use the bourbon. The bourbon will have extracted the harsher tannins from the oak, making the oak better but the bourbon worse. Add fresh bourbon after the beer is oak aged. I have experimented with oaking strong ales over 7-8 batches...