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I guess I missed the 0 part, but you're right.

First, where is your cylinder? If it's in a cold environment, don't pay attention to the gauge. If it's warm (room temp), it will read accurately. The other possibility is that it is a leak, and is now empty.

I like my big 5 gallon cans. Less work to fill, and they're reusable.

I recently bought a used BCS462 system. It connects to the network via ethernet, but I don't have ethernet in my home. I found this on Amazon, and now have WiFi access to the system.

I agree with @day_trippr, I tape my probe to the side of my fermenter. Using a thermowell would probably be more ideal, but using a freezer with temp control in a thermowell only measures the internal temp of the volume of liquid. The outer edges could get too cool. During active fermentation...

I think it's a cool idea. Why didn't I think of that before I bought my hood?

I'm gonna be a little late, I get out of work at five. But, I'll be there as soon as I can.

Do you have a pump? Is it after the chiller? Maybe it's causing a vacuum inside, while the pressure of the chilling water is on the outside.

Weird. I'm wondering if there's too much pressure from the incoming water. I dunno, I've never seen that.

Starsan is not a cleaner. Rinsing isn't enough to get them clean. Your luck may run out at some point, but baking in the oven has probably kept the infections at bay.

I wasn't disagreeing with you. I do that as well. But I have noticed some etching on the foil sometimes. I just wanted to point it out that Starsan can erode the aluminum.

Back to the OP’s question, it is safe to fill when wet with Starsan. It’s also safe to let dry, as long as there are no organisms that can reinfect after it’s dry. And, as long as your cleaning procedures are completely effective, you shouldn’t have to worry about an infection.

I’m not disagreeing with this, but Starsan will eat the aluminum. Put a cup of Starsan (at recommended strength) in a bowl with a piece of aluminum foil, and leave it for 12-24 hours. The foil will be gone. Or so flimsy that trying to take it out will break it up.

I have clamps on mine, but as hard as it was to get the tubing on, I doubt that I needed them. I just like the reassurance of having them on, I don't have to worry about hot wort flying around if one happens to come loose.

If you store your equipment outside, make sure there is no water in it to freeze. Other than that, a good cleaning in the spring is all you need.

I ferment my 10 gallon batches in 15.5 gallon sanke kegs. I also have an upright freezer. I wouldn't be able to lift the full fermenter into a chest freezer, my back won't let me. One important piece of advice if you decide to get an upright freezer: find one where the coolant doesn't run...

Remember, bacteria is microscopic. All you need is a microscopic scratch for it to hide from the cleaning and sanitizing in. As soon as new food is available, it'll wake up and start feeding/reproducing. Whether it was infected before you got it or not, you'll never know, since flies got into...

I have never seen an aluminum keg, and didn't know they made kegs out of aluminum. Can you post a pic?

I use this one. Actually, I have two. One for the boil kettle, one for the hot liquor tank. Both work great. And it will hold a 15.5 gallon keggle, full, with the leg extensions with ease.

I wash a bunch of kegs at a time, sanitize them, then pressurize them with CO2. They could be stored like that for 6-8 months before they get filled. I wouldn't be concerned if they go even longer, but I prefer full kegs over empty ones. ;-)