Well gravity is down to 1.011 and no terrible sour tastes so that's good. Unfortunately, my temp control on the conical took a dumper so the temps have varied between 58 and 72 (the whole range of the yeast) and I've got some serious esters. Not bad, but not what I was going for.... kinda like a...
Caramelization does occur at the tun boundary. But it's subtle. A 90 min boil will have a diff SRM to a 60 because of this caramelization. Probably not a tastable difference though.
Brewed this on Sunday. Almost everything went awesome, hit 151 degF for 60. pre-boil OG was 1.050 post boil was 1.054 so I got a little better than 75%. Counter-flow chiller got everything to 66deg as it hit the conical. Then, I notice a small seeping leak from the bulkhead fitting for my...
So I've become obsessed with Rogue's Irish Style Lager. It's a crisp lager with slight fruity notes (combo of hop citrus and yeast pear/apple), with a moderately hop forward character. Not sweet, not bitter but a well balanced, super drinkable beer.
I love Rogue because they tell you exactly...
This is what I do. Raise recirc temps to 168 for 10 min. And then fly sparge at the same 168 until I have my preboil volume. I'm only a few brews in on my new system so don't know if another method would be better.
Is there a significant difference in gain size between the two? I know 2row and 6row are quite different. I'm wondering if the two should require different grind settings?
I've been advised to mash for 90 minutes for temps of 150 or below, but I thought it was to get a drier character from shorter sugar chains, and not necessarily to complete conversion.
10 lbs pils = 350 pts
2 lbs wheat = 72 pts
1 lbs sugar = 45 pts
.5 Vienna = 17 pts
So you have a 494 pt possible wort. If post boil volume is 5gal then that's a 1.098 possible og. You hit 1.071, that's 72% efficient
Because the ions are needed in the mash you need to add before mash, to your strike water. Be sure to calc correct amount for mash water volume.
I add to HLT so all the water I use, mash, lauter, boil is the same.
Just live with the smaller batch or have some DME of simliar style to mix into the additional H20.
This is really about planning, and knowing your system. Your boil off is dependant mainly on the geometry of your brew kettle, and the water trapped by hop additions is going to about the...
Papazian goes into this a little in Joy of HomeBrewing, but I think Palmer does a more complete job. Go here http://www.howtobrew.com/sitemap.html and look under "Understanding your Mash pH" in the All-Grain section.
Good luck!
Yep, this is correct.
Alternatively, you could have thrown in enough DME to those two gallons to make it 1.050 if you didn't make it bigger to begin with. Or just accepted you were going to have a smaller batch. You can expect to pour water in and have the gravity stay the same.