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I've got two hop crowns that I'm looking to give away. One Cascade, one Crystal. Both are three years old, and are healthy. They've got growth, so you'll need to bring a pot with some dirt. PM me if interested. I'll hang onto them until the end of April.

CO - I just hacked back the rhizomes from my four main plants (3 years old), but the other two were put in last year. The Nugget, Cascade, Chinook and Crystal all have shoots coming up. I'll probably let them go a month before cutting them back, depending on how fast they grow.

When the shoots come up, they aren't always uniform in how their leaves look. They don't even stay the same as they mature, either. I would trust that you have whatever you ordered. I think my Cascade and Chinook both looked like your first picture when they popped up.

120 is usually the protein rest, where the sacc rest is in the 145-158 range (depending on how fermentable you want your wort). Most mashes don't need a super long protein rest, if any. You might want to consider recalculating your mash method in any case.

The bigger hop bill of an IPA is a likely cause. Hop assist in head retention of a beer, and think of the bubbly krausen as akin to a head. There could also be a little more protein than normal, which means you have more structural support in your bubbles. The more structure there is, the less...

I've used both - just finished an extra pale ale with S-05, and have an excellent super saison from Belle. I also brewed a pils with a WL vial, and a strong Belgian with a Wyeast. My anecdotal evidence points at there being no real difference. All the beers turned out fine or great, with the...

I've picked them up at Home Depot, just ask for 5 gal paint straining bags.

Keep in mind that warming like that is only really applicable to 3724, and not to Belle Saison. Belle finishes very fast, and I experienced attenuation that was insane, all in the upper 70s / low 80s.

I brewed one up, aimed for ~1.063 OG, expected around a 1.010 FG. I hit 1.067, which isn't too far off. Belle Saison took it down to .997 over a week. I didn't do any temp control on it, so it more than likely stayed between 75 and 80 the whole time. The beer is very tart and fruity, but...

It looks like the upto office actually has a "plant patent," which I was confusing with the wikipedia'd notion of plant breeder's rights. There is also a distinction between a plant patent and a regular invention patent, primarily because you don't really "invent" a plant. You just guide the...

You could try a cold crash, then rack and add some potassium sorbate. S-04 floccs very well, so you could stabilize that way.

L2R. With these rights, the breeder can choose to become the exclusive marketer of the variety, or to license the variety to others. This is purely for marketing purposes. For personal use, a patent is non-applicable. The issues that you see coming up with farmers and Roundup plants are...

Patents are actually meant to allow for private construction of an identical product. This is why patents require the full disclosure of design. They grant a monopoly within the market for that product, however. Patents are meant for suppression of competition. You'd be busted if you sold...

If you let it ride totally, you could end up with an interesting hoppy sour - I would age it for a few months and see what it transforms into.

CTZ is great for a dry hop. It adds a bit of woodiness to the brew. Good examples of commercial brews using it are Hog Heaven (100% CTZ) and Deviant Dales, which has it as a dry hop addition.

Windsor is fine, it's just really fruity, finishes slightly sweet, and is a little less flocculant than other strains. Depending on the kit, this may be in line with what you're aiming at. You might just have to cold crash it for a little longer is all.

Keep your mill in good condition. There are a few LHBS's around Denver, and there's one further north that probably still hasn't replaced their mill. They had a Corona, but why would someone hand crank at a LHBS? I'd drop $25 for a mill for home if I wanted to do manual labor. There's a store...

I would BIAB until there is more space to use. Optionally, you can get a smaller cooler to mash in. They aren't that expensive. Partial mashes are also a good option.

Try using a thinner mash as well. Most people see efficiency jumps when they go from 1.25qt/lb to 1.5 or higher.

The only reliable sign of fermentation is SG readings over time. Bubbles in the airlock only tells you that the airlock is on tight. Just take some gravity readings at different times if you want to know of it is still chugging.