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Triclamp based element adapters. They work great.

fhHobbies Thanks for the props, I really appreciate it. I'm looking forward to getting together and sampling a few brews that you make with your new panel...

Just use your second pump to recirculate the water.

For actual electrical schematics, NOT pictorial layouts like you often see here... There's a program called tinyCAD, and it's completely free and has a pretty decent library of electrical components. I'd recommend it to anyone trying to design a proper schematic diagram for wiring or simply...

Relays and contactors using mechanical contacts/coils can be noisy, I've had several like that, and it's the nature of the beast. With cheap components comes the risk of ones that are bad. Quality control is not priority #1 when you're dealing with cheap components. That said, Auber is one of...

I think a 2" triclamp ferrule and clamp would accept that element. You'd just slide it in then. It is a 3 phase element, that's for sure. However this doesn't matter. A three phase element is really just 3 single phase elements put on one mounting flange. You can run only one or two of them...

Incase you're interested, I'm actually located in MB as well, and have been known to put together a few controllers.... www.mashinganddistillerycontrols.com

Shoulda concentrated it and seen if it was worth your time then....

TWINS!!!!!! This one was so good I had to build two :mug:

Here's a few more pics of the insides of the panel. This panel could easily control a MLT and BK, but it was actually built for a boiler with a different purpose!! Click here to see what it all does functionality wise.

Built this for a fellow today...... It's gonna be quite a nice and versatile controller :rockin:

What kind of wiring schematic did you use? If it was one of PJ's that might be it. He uses the e-stop button to short a hot to ground and this would trip the GFCI if you didn't pop out the estop button before you plug in the panel.

someone knew how to bend a wire nicely. If you cant figure out to do with those terminal blocks, send em to me, I'd put em to good use. Fuses are not my forte though, they require replacement, not resetting.............

First off, if you havent figured it out already, it was originally wired 3 phase. To make it easier to understand, think of each three phase element as 3 individual standard elements (6 terminals on each element = 3 pairs of normal wires to each "3ph element". You need to figure out how much...

No, that's not really true, the amperage draw per phase is directly related to the element draw. Each phase has two elements drawing on it, unless you switch one off, then the two associated phases would have their draw reduced proportionally. Glad to help.

This might help you out, disregard the inaccuracy of the SSR's, you know what they do. This should help you set up a sys that will work individually as well. Each element has 2 pole circuit protection here, remove it if you don't want it. The line load on each phase will calculated according...

Use 40amp rated ssr's and you should be good. There's no need for a neutral in your panel if you arent planning on running any 120v stuff in there. You still need a ground though. The ssrs will switch power to the elements, yes. Three ssrs, three lines in, three elements out. The wiring is...

you're still thinking in single phase. each leg will see 1.73 of the equivalent single phase load of two elements. so, with 240v and 5500w elements the math is thus... 2*5500/240/1.73=27 amps per leg at 240, remember higher voltage means lower amperage draw...

Each leg will see a current draw that is equivalent to 1.73 of two elements. So, 2*5500/208=52.88amps / 1.73 = 31 amps per leg roughly.

Sorry, I don't mean to offend Huntb, but that is entirely incorrect. You are showing single phase wiring, and it's incorrectly labeled. Cruelkix, I've built three phase control panels before, and it's not that hard to do. A fully variable controller with individual element selectivity and...