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I was fortunate enough to have a good friend who's a fabricating master. Befriend someone who likes beer/fab work?

Hey, thanks for the support! I think Beer at a Time is fresh out of our beer at the moment. NW Liquid gold off Fourth Plain might be your only bet at getting some (they have one of the last kegs, until we keg up what we last brewed). Next couple weeks you should see our Porter and Malice...

Heyo Vancouver! There is a homebrew club here in Vancouver, but I just moved over from Portland about a year ago and haven't checked it out. I want to say it's Plato Republic? Got real busy with the brewery and haven't had time to check it out. Cheers!

No worries at all, just shoot me a PM and we can set something up.

Temp controllers are these: 110V, F display. Thermometer for the chiller is this: 110V, F display. Timer is this: 115V supply. I have a schematic, but a lot of it I shot from the hip when I added things. Send me a PM if you're interested and I'll see what I can work up. Most of it, I got...

Got the chiller mounted last night. Yes, I am aware that it won't drain the way that it's mounted. The idea behind the way it is, was so that it would be protected from being bonked or knocked around when the stand is being pulled out, etc. Another reason was so that the temp probe cable...

I'm afraid to work it up. A lot of the raw material I was fortunate enough to source through work for cheap. Some of it I had on hand. For the most part, the expensive stuff was in all of the smaller components. That stuff adds up fast, and if you don't have a plan going into it, it can...

Sourced them locally in the Portland area, but they're the same as the needle valves on this page. P/N: 850-BRF-SP

HLT done with HERMS coil inside. Everything on the tubing is Swagelock.

Stainless braid that is wrapped around the silicone tubing.

Some photos of the new panel tags that just came in.

BK is done now.

Got the HERMS coil in place, hoses are made up, and everything is done. More pictures of that to come tonight. I have a few more hoses to make, and I'll post pictures of those tonight as well. I wrapped the 1/2" silicone tubing with some 3/8" (stretched, it's like a Chinese finger trap)...

Here's the setup. It's the same on all three of the burners, with the exception of the BK line not having a solenoid. It's extremely nice because when another burner goes on or off, the remaining burners do not change in pressure at all. Everything stays constant.

Mash tun port for recirculating and sparge arm hook up.

More work done on the kettles. Putting a Tangential inlet on the BK for whirlpooling. The original dip-tube will be re-bent to pick up on the opposite side of the kettle. Using a 1/2" x 12" 304 S/S nipple coming out of the side. It should line up with the valve currently on the kettle.

I already had the hex butt weld fittings, so I figured I should use what I had laying around. ;) Don't worry, I need to put in another order for some more cams soon. :mug:

Small update: Getting some butt weld nipples milled down for the silicone tubing. I'm on board with Bobby's take on the reduced port for the barbed cam locks, so I found an alternative. These will be for the straight fittings going into the hoses. I've ordered the barbed 90s from Bobby...

On the HLT & MT there's the solenoid first, then a ball valve, then a needle valve. The solenoid is obviously on/off from the panel, then the ball valve is main on/off as a backup. The needle valve is really where the control is for the burners. Then there's the air intake on the burner...

Robbed them off of the Cast Iron Jet burners that we originally bought. After many test and fighting with the flame/control we decided against them and got the 10" Banjo burners. Just like these pilot lights Welded the pilot light right into a reducer that then was welded onto the 1/4"...