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Well, that's just not true because at the very least there's me. I'm glad it's a useful feature for most people though.

Maybe I'm missing something then. I prefer to disable the boil acceleration because I want 1:1 control over my element output in boil mode. I adjust boil vigor depending on if I'm using my condenser or not, and I always want 100% to be 100% when heating to a boil. ETA: I also like simplicity...

Late to the response on this one, but for the way my system works those functions were more harm than help, in which case the EZboil was actually less functional until I did the over ride. What I like best about the EZ boil is the futureproofing. It can be optimized for either scenario as needed.

You can always cool down the HLT by either running it through the chiller hex (if this is something you plan to do, just leave it hooked up to the counterflow through the whole mash but only flood it with cold water after your mash is at final step temp, would only take a minute) or just by...

You can pretty easily adjust the temperature settings for these functions in order to bypass them. I forget exactly what parameters I changed, but I came across this exact problem on my first brew day with my EZ-Boil and a quick setting change fixed it right up.

I do almost exactly what your describing and it works pretty well. I'm still building up to a dedicated 3rd vessel, but it does the job for now. There's a bit more moving around of hoses than I'd like currently though.

Check out the steam condenser thread on this forum. It's a great solution that's a lot cheaper and easier than a vent hood.

A cork trivet works well for the purpose.

Butterfly valves are great for on/off and because they are really easy to sanitize, but they are not designed to throttle flow. It's not what you want to hear after dropping so much $$ on a complete system but your best bet is to replace the pump outlet valve with a ball valve. Grounded really...

Sure, you just use something like this https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/1.5-Inch-Tri-Clover-x-4-Inch-NPT-Nipple-Connect.html mount your whirlpool arm on the inside and a quick disconnect of choice on the outside.

I was under the impression that while the boil does drive off any free oxygen, the reactions referred to as oxidation have already taken place. Is that incorrect?

Seems excessive at that price when you can get the same functionality for under $40 from stilldragon.com http://stilldragon.com/index.php/diy-small-controller.html

Clifnotes version: Uses less power to boil, lose less volume to boil off (less strike water, quicker temp ramp), works great and you already have a sink next to your BK which is ideal. Buy it from Brew Hardware https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/steamslayer.htm or Buy it from Brew-Boss...

Yeah, you do lose some flexibility when it comes to double batching, but I thought about it and realized that I've only ever done it twice in 10 years of brewing before going electric, and that was when I was brewing 5 gallon batches. I'm lucky that I have a hot water line right over my brewing...

That's basically what I'm using. I got a bones of the system from HG, but I got a panel kit from Auber to save some money (and I just didn't like the idea of a plastic panel, it just felt a bit cheaper but cost more) and went with a different chiller, but over all I really like it.

You could always use something like a hot-rod to assist on the stove top. With that you wouldn't need to worry about shielding. Then you can add a 240v element to the kettle down the road if your situation allows. Edit: just scrolled down the page and saw you have a thread asking about that...

What don't you like about the front to back style handles? I much prefer them that way because it makes things easier to move around for cleaning. Also, I'm curious to see how easy it really is to break down and clean that plate chiller. Plate and frame chillers are nice because you can break...

High Gravity has an option to upgrade their 240v EBIAB to a 20 gallon kettle https://www.highgravitybrew.com/store/pc/Brewing-System-Electric-Wort-Hog-5-10-Gallon-BIAB-240V-269p3987.htm

You just accurately descrbed a kettle-RIMS, with one point missing. When you're doing Kettle RIMS, you don't need a third vessel. The 'HLT' that your heating element is in doubles as your boil kettle. When you're done with your mash, you just kill the pump going back to the mash tun so that the...

Love your setup. I would make one suggestion though, instead of the 3 way valve you have on your kettle whirlpool port I would put in 2 check valves. Since you're not using it to select the direction of the flow but rather to block recirculation it would serve the same purpose but you could...