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Here is my first experience with Belgian Ardennes. I fermented a 1.070 all malt pale ale with mostly pilsner, a touch of caramunich and munich malt. I pitched at around 64 let it ramp up between 66 and 68 for the first two days and then 72 on the third day. After the third day I proceeded to...

I would recommend wyeast 1056 or white labs 007. I used 1272 on my last DIPA and just wasn't happy with the Attenuation numbers I hit. All though 1272 would be good if you are looking for slightly less attenuation and more malt backbone.

I agree with chumpsteak. I recently brewed a double IPA with a sulfate level of 300ppm. I think it's the best IPA I have brewed thus far. Now I would only use this water profile for really hoppy beers. You wouldn't want that much gypsum for something like a pilsner, helles, or malty beers, etc...

I had to cancel my last order with them because I could never get anyone to answer the phone and when I called them and left them a voicemail, they never even called me back that day. There are too many other companies trying to make a living for me to support one with such poor customer...

Hey guys, just a random curiosity I had. Why does malt liquor taste so bad? Is it too much adjunct or a rushed fermentation schedule for profit?

The longest time frame that I have ever seen recommended or used by pro brewers is 14 days.

I used my Blichmann Hoprocket yesterday for the first time and fortunately everything went great! I brewed a double IPA that used about 8 ounces of pellet hops in the boil. I used a large mesh bag for the hops in the boil. I then ran my wort from my kettle to march pump to the Hoprocket...

Definitely RIS. It only seems to get better with age.

I like the idea of the whole top of the can coming off so that it would be similar to drinking out of a glass. Too bad that didn't work out so well.

I'm actually switching over to a plate chiller because I've got a new kettle now. So I'm hoping to drill into the kettle so I can keep the lid closed as I whirlpool.

I'm looking to add a whirlpool port for my kettle and I'm kind of confused on how to do it. Do I just use a bulkhead and dip tube as the whirlpool port? I'm also kind of freaked out about drilling through my new Blichmann Boiler maker to add it. Any advice?

Hey guys I need some help improving my boil kettle/chilling and draining methods. I had initially planned on boiling using a false bottom in a Blichmann Boiler Maker using whole hops to filter the wort on it's way to a plate chiller to the fermenter.The only problem with that is apparently using...

Has anyone used a Blichmann Boiler Maker as a boil kettle with a false bottom in? They warn about scorching the wort but I have heard of several people using a false bottom in their boil kettle to block hop material when draining their wort.

If it's been in primary for 3 weeks I would say that 1.020 is probably where it its going to finish at. You could move the carboy to a warmer room to see if you can get a few more gravity points out of it but I doubt it's going to happen. Either way you are still going to have drinkable beer, it...

Yeah the size of the krausen can vary on the type of the yeast and wort. I have seen certain yeast strains have a larger krausen and also high gravity worts tend to create a larger krausen. As far as temperature control goes, a lot of people simply tape a temperature probe to the side of their...

No I always wait at least 60 minutes in the mash tun for full conversion. My fear is that if I drain the wort into the kettle and it cools off in the kettle that I'm going to end up with a more fermentable wort than intended.

Awesome, thanks Denny! Good to hear from the man himself. I think I can deal with fruity. Next time I will definitely be using my refrigerator to control the beastly fermentation from 1450 and a high gravity wort.

If I mash in a beer at 154 then drain off into a kettle. If the wort I drain off into the kettle starts to drop below 154, does conversion still take place in the kettle? Is it creating a more fermentable wort if the temperature of the wort in the kettle drops into the upper 140's?

I have a batch of this brewing now. Only problem is my fermentation got out of hand. It worked itself up to a fermentation temp of 70 degrees around the 24 hour mark. Has anyone had any experience with 1450 fermenting this high? I'm afraid of the final beer having a fusel alcohol presence.

His airlock is dry so it has been exposed to oxygen. I guess what I'm trying to say is it's probably going to have flavor characteristics similar to an old oxidized beer to the extreme. I've had something similar happen to me (let a beer sit in a secondary for a year) needless to say, it sucked...