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Yes, high pressure. I'm running a 20 psi regulator.

I run regulator at the tank with hose to the manifold, and needle valves to regulate the flow to each burner. I crank the regulator wide open and can go from barely there flame to trying to melt the bottom of the kettles with the needle valves. Here's a pic while I was mocking it up. My hoses...

I've got one left, it won't let me edit the title.

Still available.

Have single Perlick 525ss for sale. Clean, no leaks, ready to go. $30 shipped

As a follow up, starting with confirmed RO water, after my salt additions Bru'n Water gave me an estimated mash ph of 5.35 and Brewers Friend 5.55. Measured pH came in at 5.54 in this case. Let it ride without chasing it and its at least another data point for my notes.

This made me wonder. The machine I have been getting my water from gets a lot of use and thus serviced pretty regularly. I bought a TDS meter and decided to give it a check...49ppm. Considering the fact that the city water here tests around 60-70 that is basically just straight tap water and...

I'll check the RO Water with a TDS meter. It does come from a grocery store machine but it's high traffic and serviced every week or two. I do have a cheap pH meter but it's been calibrated with fresh solution and reads within .05 of the listed calibration solution on both the 4.0 and 7.0...

I should note that when it comes to the calculations without acid additions both seem to be close, within .1 maybe .2 at max. But once you dive into acid additions the two are so far apart as to how much lactic acid is needed to get the pH you're looking for and when using Bru'n Water acid...

Hey all, Brewing today and having issues with mash pH. Ive been using supporters version of bru'nwater for building up my water from scratch (RO Water) and my pH is consistently off, especially when acid additions are involved. Today I'm brewing a Kolsch. I added all my calcium chloride to...

Thanks Doug. That makes sense to me. The first batch I did in the new system I had a finer crush but couldn't run much flow. That beer had attenuation issues as well, but was fairly high in specialty malt so I'm not sure how much that was my process and how much was my crap recipe. The last...

I don't recall the crush off the top of my head. I wouldn't say it's too coarse, but it is slightly coarser than I was using before. With the finer crush I was compacting the grain bed when recirculating. 1.5" brewers hardware rims tube with 120v 1500 watt 12" element from brewhardware. RTD...

No iodine test. Efficiency in the 75-85% range depending on how long my sparge was taking. I suppose if I did a test at the time I start the ramp up it would give me an idea how much if any conversion is left although most of the information I've gone through talks about conversion itself being...

Once I backed the crush off a little bit I'm now able to run pretty much full open on the pump. All that's left on the element after a brew day is a thin white film of what I assume is protein that wipes right off with my finger.

Thanks for the input so far. Temp is being measured coming out the top of the RIMS tube. I'm definitely looking into fermentation issues but the fact that I haven't changed anything on that side of things and have only changed my brew system leads me to believe it's not very likely that's the...

So here's my dilemma. Been brewing for the past 5 years with a 10 gal cooler all grain set up. Single infusion no mash out. Mash at say 152 and sparge with 170 degree water. My attenuation has always been good if not too much attenuation at times. My new system that I just finished building...

Just as a final update. Picked up a ferrule crimper for $18 on Amazon and finished up the wiring. Not very pretty wiring job I know, but it works, and I definitely felt better using the ferrules over bare wire. Seemed much more secure. Can't wait to play with this thing.

Thanks all. For my peace of mind I'm going to go ahead and pick up a crimper and use the ferrules. For as much as I've spent on this project so far another $30 isn't going to kill me.

Thanks I really appreciate it. May I ask what it is that's listed that show that? Just so I know for future reference.

Here's the spec sheet that I found based on what was written on the side of the terminal block. http://www.dinkle.com/upfiles/proter21338192940.pdf I'm not sure what a lot of that means (Besides the actual wire size and amperages)