Search results

My main observation is you're overcomplicating. 6.7% Maris Otter is going to do very little, same with the Vienna. Also, first wort hopping and bittering at 60? Pick one or the other. There's a fine line between complex and complicated.

I checked viability on a yeast bay vial recently. It was within a week or two of use by, and still 90%+ viable (methylene blue tested).

Yep, stick it in the fridge. It'll last 7 days and barely lose any viability.

Not a big risk if you clean and santise your equipment. However you'll be adding oxygen, which should always be avoided.

I have no idea what you're trying to achieve here, but it doesn't sound appealing. There are ways of getting a strong beer with low FG and thinner body with barley. This looks like a 7% beer with alcohol added and not much else.

Most of your flavour etc comes from first 48-72 hours of fermentation. So, keep it at 68 (if you planned to ferment cool), for about 48 hours, then let it go up to 72 and stay there until it's done. Optimum temp for this strain is apparently 68-78f, which is a big range! For a Belgian IPA, 78f...

So many great new hops about, citra, mosaic, nelson sauvin, which area great, but I find myself craving good old 'Murican 'C' hops in a west coast IPA. Chinook, Cascade, Centennial. Mmmm.

WLP500 is a really nice yeast. I always thought Shimmay (hehe) wasn't the best example of Belgian yeast and only tried it because i got some free. Really pleased though! Fermented cooler than usual for a Belgian for some nice earthy/herbal and banana notes and not a massive phenol bomb like...

No brewing, but just dry hopped an IPA fermented with the Vermont ale yeast (and some wlp001 because it slowed a lot at 1.018, down to 1.014 now though). Little too cold for it to finish by itself. Then got a decently sized citra IIPA about reading for cooling & dry hopping, and a 6% oatmeal...

You'll get a reasonable flavour off the malt for a dubbel, but the yeast isn't ideal. I'd drop the end of boil hops, or bitter with the chinook and use saaz at end of boil. I don't think the likes of Chinook have any place as an aroma hop in a Belgian dubbel, much as I like it.

Brewing right now! 6.0% Oatmeal Stout. Trying to fill the void between 'normal' 4% and imperial stouts... ...am I making a strong stout, or a session imperial stout? Foreign extra? I should also add, that I finished brewing 1320 gallons of west coast IPA at work about 3 hours ago. haha!

Take 200ml, place it in a conical flasks. Add 1 gram of yeast (us05), or 5ml slurry if you don't have dry. Place on stir plate for 48 hours @70f with airlock. Measure... No significant movement in gravity = sugars too complex. Movement down to where it should finish fermenting (1.010-1.012??) =...

I'd up the bicarb and CaCl2 if I were you. My water isn't a million miles of what you've got there and without more of those two, I was getting astringency issues, most likely from pH raising too much throughout the sparge due to low buffering. pH 5.3 is fine for the mash, I wouldn't worry...

Home brewed APA. Really good, some refreshing citrus notes with herbal background and pleasant bitterness. Probably one of my best homebrews in a technical perspective. Fully conditioned after two weeks in bottle. Used cascade, centennial, chinnoo, citra end of of boil. Dry hopped citra and...

Brewed a Burton Ale yesterday (Maris Otter, Wheat, Crystal, Invert No3, caramel colouring). West Yorkshire ale yeast and some admiral hops. Today I brewed a Rye IPA, 10% Rye, 10% Munich, Maris Otter then plenty of simcoe, centennial and cascade.

To types of sulphur you'll get is Hydrogen Sulphide (H2S), and Sulphur dioxide (SO2). Yeast produce it, but the CO2 produced has a scrubbing action and will remove stuff like the sulphur compounds, dissolved oxygen (and some of the more volatile aromatics etc). So basically, leave it and...

As you're in metric units try this: Bitters/Milds: 2-4 grams/litre of hops at end of boil Pale ales: 3-5g/l IPA's: 5g/l Now that's obviously a very rough guide and depends on how hoppy you want the beer and how pugent the particular hop you are using is, but it'll get you going and you can...

Well, my career is as a brewer so note taking and measurements are kind of second nature to me, so I've got logs of all my recipes etc. Most important really are figures for OG (and efficiency) and mash temps with FG so I can make sure I'm getting the right about of residual sugars / body on...

Drinking a bottle of farmhouse ale with this now. 10% crystal rye (thought it was normal rye). Two weeks in it hit 1.008, 5ish months later in secondary down to 1.003 and bottled. Tastes nice, got a real nice grainy flavour from the rye, a little diacetyl maybe but its still young in...

If domestic yeast can live in it, wild yeast can. Acid washing is done to reduce bacterial loading, if wild yeast is in there, it's going no where.