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Pics or it didnt happen! Nice job looks tasty

This is the mashout step. It raises the mash temp to hopefully get you near 165-170. It stops enzyme activity as well as makes your mash easier to drain or lauter since its hotter and less viscous. Some do this some dont. I usually dont because its another step I have to take, I do make my...

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No its fine if you got some in. Its trub, break material and hops. Some studies have shown this materisl is good for the yeast so no worries. I pour from the kettle as well and stop when as much wort as I can get in and it starts getting into almost pure trub

One thing you can do to prevent to much water is removing 1-2 gallons from the mash water prior to mashing and with that have it heated in a smaller pot. Then lift the grains and do a rinse until you get exactly how much water you need. It eliminates the need to be dead on, on your water need...

Also to add you can add frozen water bottles to drop it even lower, but the lower you want to go the more you will be swapping em out

Ales are considered easier to make then lagers in part due to increased temperature tolerances of the yeast, among other things. However, you still need some means of controlling temps of an ale. If your room is 70, expect your ale to hit 74-80 minumum. A simple swamp cooler, cooler bath, or...

With extract you can hold back a portion of the water and have it ice cold to help speed up the cooling process. Get it down to 100 and the top up with ice cold water to chill it

Good little setup. Just a word of caution to a new brewer, be careful with that glass carboy! Don't try to carry it without some kind of harness or milk crate, to risky imo, or just wear long sleeves if you carry it lol. My kit came with one too, and then I traded it at the local homebrew shop...

Yea I get scared of sucking up to much as well. If size is an issue just do a quarter gallon larger to make up for it. If you feel like you are abusing the alcohol by dumping that last little bit, I feel your pain.

Most typical mash's are in the 150-154 range, 165 is mashout temp. If I'm shooting for 152, and it hits any number in the 150-154 range I leave it alone and call it good enough. There are a few beers that benefit from lower and higher mash temps. Really low abv beers in the 3-4% range benefit...

Yes that is the general consensus. Some breweries brew a higher abv beer so when they package it they can dilute it to normal strength. They make a concentrated beer. I dont know how this effects the grain bill. This is also an option if your equipment is maxxed at one gallon

If you do bulkage I would recommend to age it in something close to final volume to leave little headspace. Also check airlock periodically to keep it from drying out and allowing O2 in

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I'd roll with what you got and next time be prepared with some dme. Or just compensate for a lower efficiancy and add more grains. Also take steps to up your efficiancy

Take a gravity ready a few days apart and if the final reading doesn't change its time to bottle.

Do all my aging in bottle/keg. Everything i brew doesnt need extended aging though. What type of beer are you brewing?

Good job! Looks like you did your research and made a good brew. Wouldn't be a bad idea to get some kind of automated temp control. Probably to late in the year but a heater mat and ink bird temperature controller are cheap and easy ways to keep a wort from going to low. I ferment in my basement...

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://m.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3D-_kXIGvB1uU&ved=0ahUKEwjltMWD2fjaAhXiwVkKHUJfBfIQo7QBCCQwAA&usg=AOvVaw2Bemxuoc2RTIZZd9oNq43f Reminded me of this skit

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