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Been kicking around the idea of installing a motor that will power an auger to continually stir the mash.. Anyone ever done this? Any leads on an reasonably priced motor that could handle being over a mash kettle? Would not only have to be able to handle the temps, but also the moisture...

Compressor starts and runs for a few seconds and then shuts off... Will try again a time or two after a few minutes, then it waits a long time before trying again.. Don't know much about refrigeration, but I'm assuming the relay is good since it starts and runs at all.. Could be the motor...

Does the probe (either electric or mechanical thermometer) have to extend into the kettle? Can it come right up to the end of the bulkhead fitting (without actually extending past it into the kettle) and still be accurate? I need to install a second temp probe up near the top of my keggle...

I have brewed 4 batches in a row now, all with the same problem.. Actually, I think even more if you include the problems I was having on my old system a few years ago... I have changed virtually 'everything' except for my fermentation chamber and my CFC chiller.. Going from a propane heated...

So yesterday, I brewed EdWort's Haus Pale Ale.. A beer I have brewed several times over the eyars and is always a hit.. LINK TO RECIPE Everything went 'perfect'.. Nailed the SG and everything.. Transferred to the fermenter, added three packs of nottingham (12.5G in the fermenter) @ 68F, and...

After two horrible batches on my new system (turns out long term storage of grain is not a good idea) due to unfermentables, I tried again with new grain and the same IPA recipe, and got 'most' of the way to the ABV I was targeting and had a robust primary doing so... I started crash cooling...

Is there an affordable way to measure dissolved oxygen? The meters are expensive.. I have seen 'test kits' for use with aquariums.. Will they work for brewing to see if there is enough oxygen in the wort? If so, will they work on the wort itself, or do they have to be used on pure...

So, I just ordered a regulator off of eBay, went through my left over fittings and have most of what I need to make an in line oxygenation set up type doo hickey type dealy to inject oxygen during the transfer from CFC to fermenter using a chugger pump... (just need to get a screw in SS stone)...

So, my SG has not changed in over a week.. It's been in the fermenter 2 weeks... It's a ten gallon IPA, that was was pitched with 2 packets of Safele S-05.. sprinkled on top right from the package... Before I pitched the yeast, I put it on my brew table to warm to ambient temp, but when I went...

In my old system, I made a hop sock from a 4"-3" PVC Adapter, a hose clamp, a hops bag and an 18" piece of 1/2" copper tube resting across the rim of the keggle... I would put a weight in it to keep it open so I could add hops... I just set all that up and am waiting for the wort to boil down...

I'm taking my new system (eBIAB) for it's first brew tomorrow.... On my old system, I would put five gallons of sanitizer water in the keggle, then drain it through the CFC to the two carboys... Shake the carboys, and then dump the sanitizer in a bucket for sanitizing everything else through...

Planning to do my first brew day with the new system this weekend.. Several process changes from the old system.... eBIAB without recirculation (for the first brew or two, gonna keep it simple), and I'm wondering if there is much difference in temperature from the wort under the false bottom...

Going to be brewing for the first time with my new upgraded system this weekend, and have a few questions about the process... Old system: propane heated keggle, with rectangular coleman cooler mash tun.. two 6.5g glass carboy fermenters... no pump/recirc... well water (no water test, but...

First brew this coming weekend on upgraded system... First time BIAB... What crush is recommended for traditional BIAB (no recirculation)? I've seen threads where people are recommending .045 or coarser for recirculating BIAB, but not seeing any recommendations for BIAB without...

Old system: propane heated keggle, with rectangular coleman cooler mash tun.. two 6.5g glass carboy fermenters... no pump/recirc... well water (no water test, but evidence of low PH) New system: Single electric eBIAB keggle, 5500w heater element, single Speidel 60L fermenter, pump/recirc, RO...

Was out looking for info on how much adding grain to mash water increases overall volume (resulting volume of water + grains), and came across this article which lays out the whole process of calculating water usage.. Most articles or threads deal with only part of the process, so I thought his...

So, rather than buy and deal with a bunch of RO or Distilled water, or spending money on a water report for my well, which will likely change once the drought here ceases and the aquifers refill (well is very low right now), I'm thinking I might as well build an RO filter and start with a...

So, with my prior system, I used the "brew target" program to calculate recipes, and it was pretty straight forward... For the mash, I just entered the amount of water that the cooler would hold with the lid on in the equipment profile, and went from there.. I could play with the qt's per...

I'm in process of punching out my Bayou Classic fry basket for my eBIAB build.. I'm trying to decide if I should punch out the holes to 1" or 1.25" ... I see some say they punched out to 1.25", but that seems like it would not leave much meat on the bone so to speak, between all the holes for...

Anyone can advise on the pros and cons of Speidel vs Agri-Mart plastic fermenters? I am soon to get a single vessel fermenter for 11 gallon batches.. The Speidel seems to be more 'ready to use' and would fit in my fermentation chamber easier, but I like the conical shape of the Agri-mart...