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Bottle bucket. That one bottle bucket everyone has. Well it isn't leaking yet, I'll inspect all components carefully.

So here's an interesting twist to this thread. What if I've had a couple gallons of starsan in a bucket for, say, two years roundabout. Is the BUCKET still ok? Smells good, looks good. ???

I picked up this Mini Brew conical fermentor with a slug of other home brewing equipment recently. Very clean. Shipping would probably be a pain/expensive. I work in Dayton and Columbus regularly, could meet somewhere. $125

That doesn't look all that bad. That just looks like yeast sticking to the sides of the carboy, I've had many a beer look like that.

Uh. Ima need some more info... If you mean the kind from bargainfittings or brewhardware then yes. Those are meant to be installed in your kettles.

Ohhhhhhhhhhhhh......... You could do that I suppose. Basically would be no sparge. Not sure how that would affect your mash ph given the high water/grain ratio. People do full volume BIAB, so it can be done. I would think efficiency would take a hit, but I don't have anything off handed to back...

I get a couple brews out of one 20# cylinder on my 10 gallon batchs in a keggle. But that's just for the boil.

That is ferment temp. I generally shoot for a room temp at the bottom of the yeast's range knowing the actual ferm temp will be 5-8 degrees above that.

Stupid question alert.... Are you absolutely positive that you have the QD pushed down all of the way? Is there a clear "click" when it's fully seated? I may understand, but I'm not sure how it can leak from that location.

Wow. Neat stuff.

Add the grain to the strike water. Not the water to the grain. Add some grain, stir. Add some grain, stir. I don't have problems with doughballs. And get 75-80% eff.

This thread title rocks.

Sounds like it'll prolly be ok. You could warm it up, rouse the yeast a bit and rack really dirty (meaning take a lot of trub and yeast when you rack). The beer might come out cloudy and have excess sediment in the bottle, but I'd put money on it having enough yeast to carb. The second option...

Come out a LOT better? No. Worth it? Without a friggin doubt. I think it comes out better. Plus gives you experience with managing the mash temp before failing at managing the mash temp can literally ruin your brew. It takes a little more time since you'll have to mash for an hour instead of...

Oddly enough... I've found AHS prices on single ingredients to be too high compared to other sources, but their kits are a decent value. Go figure.

This is basically what I've found from their online selection. Solid kits, really fresh, customizable and cheap shipping. I did a couple extract kits from them then a couple partial mash kits. Then I got a couple of their all grain kits before I was comfortable formulating my own recipes. It was...

I prefer any that are from an actual LHBS even if it's on the interwebs. Lemme clarify, Austin or Midwest kits (in my opinion) are much fresher and come with better instructions for newer brewers than a Cooper's or Brewer's Best kit.

Just went back to check this. 4 weeks. That's perfect in my book. The yeast will continue clean up the beer while in the bottles albeit more slowly.

Maybe that's not it. Just a problem I've had. Even in the winter if my basement is 65* the beer at active fermentation could easily be 72 or more.

In my experience age is about the only thing that will help. Bottle it and keep it 70*F for three weeks at least. Then pop a couple in the fridge and give them a try a couple days later. Meanwhile, start another!