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I'm in

One thing that hasn't been suggested yet is over-carbonation, not to the extent you get bottle bombs, but enough that you get a carbonic acid 'twang' in the beer. Are you using calculators to determine how much priming sugar to add factoring in how much CO2 is already in suspension in the beer...

+ 8 Gallons IPA 11,847

Everything before the boil is uneccessary to sanitize. The boil is doing just that, sanitizing. No lacto or any other bacteria living in your mash tun will survive that process, so why bother sanitizing your mash tun, even after sour mashing? Also, thisisbeer is right. All grain is already...

Brewed this a few weeks ago with some slight changes. I didn't have Maris Otter, so I just used American 2-row (also C60 and C120 instead of British equivalents). I also opted for the London ESB yeast (Wyeast 1968) and made a 2L starter. Lastly, I increased the C120 to .5# to get a color closer...

+8.5 gallons Dry Stout 10,223

+5 Saison +6 ESB +6 Berliner Weisse +5 SMaSH IPA 9929

Thanks for the replies, I had never heard that refractometers couldn't be used during fermentation. The OG was 1.045, which gives me a lower SG than 1.008 on those calcuators, but I'm just going to stick with the hydrometer for readings and check it against pure water to calibrate.

Refractometer reads 5.0 Brix Hydrometer reads 1.008 SG The temp of the beer is 70 degF I have calibrated the refractometer with distilled water (didn't need to adjust anything, it was already right on 0 with the water). This is a saison that's only been going for 4 days and is still...

Sign me up.

Any reason you think it will cost upwards of $350? I'm not questioning your statement, I just don't know the prices of certain things that you might have included in that quote. In my mind, the only big ticket items for this control panel are the PID/SSR, and the GFCI, and those should combine...

Well, I don't know if I have a GFCI already or not, I don't know what it does or if it is standard. I don't quite understand why a washing machine/dryer can run on the outlet fine but as soon as I try to run a brewing rig set to run off the same voltage/amperage limits, changes need to be made...

I am aware that searching this question would turn up a lot more posts than this thread will probably get in replies, but I want to make absolute certain that what I buy/build will be functional and won't start a fire/any other disaster, so I am asking here to get the specifics of my system in...

What I'm using as my brewery name for the time being. It's starting to grow on me.

Either HERMS or RIMS, which is generally accepted as "better"? Also, single tier would be preferable. I'm a pretty big DIY-er, and it helps I have a degree in Mechanical Engineering. Getting my hands dirty isn't a problem.

Title pretty much says it all. I currently use an all-grain system with cooler mash tun and stock pots on a stove. Would I be able to build an all electric system from that starting point for under $1000? I would prefer up to 1/2 bbl capacity, but if a 10 gal system can be made under $1000 that...

Scarred Otter King Brewery That's most likely not going to stick, just something random I came up with that is an anagram for my name (not including the word 'brewery'). I'm not good with graphic design so no logo/label for it yet, but I imagine an otter wearing a crown holding a beer with...

The rest of the parts came in today. I'll post pictures of it later once I get back to the house. It includes 2 dual faucet tower taps, CO2 tanks, corny kegs, CO2 manifold, and a whole bunch of connection pieces. Still need to get ball lock fittings for the corny kegs though, they were out...

The freezer came in yesterday and we brought it down to the basement to replace the old one. The inside almost makes it look like we're having a party... curious... Also, buying 24 30-racks gets you some weird looks. Rest assured as soon as it's completely assembled, taps and all, there will...