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I had a similar experience with that category in a couple comps. I brew 60% rye, no wheat, and put rye as the dominant grain in the special instructions which apparently never made it to the judges. One even wrote something along the lines of tastes like rye, but not really sure, could be...

I say sacrifice one bottle to check the gravity. I added champagne yeast to a mead after the wine yeast pooped out and over the course of 4 months it went from 1.015ish to 1.000. You really don't want to lose the whole batch.

What type of mash tun are you using? I ask because you will probably want to use rice hulls with oats. They are literally the gummiest thing I have ever put in beer. Personally I would increase the oats to at least 1#, I generally use 1.5# per 5 gal batch to really get that creamy smoothness...

Sooooo... Dogfish logo stickers cost $7.04 now? I guess that's inline with their beer prices.

My favorite is my CDA, it's the only beer I've ever deemed worthy of a name, "It's called CDA". But the most technically accurate and overall best beer I've ever made is the current batch of Helles. I have half a keg left and I'm on thin rations.

Cheers. I'm half your age and I had a ruptured disc removed about a year ago. I was stupid and waited 2 weeks after losing feeling in the front of my leg before seeing the doc. Now my left leg is about half the size of my right, but daily trips to the gym and a lot of stretching are slowly...

I got my single levels at mouser.com I don't know that they're the cheapest, but they have a ton of stuff and are fast. The only thing is that if you don't know exactly what you're looking for it takes a while to find stuff.

Is it a piece of equipment?

It's already cold and carbed. Just toss 2-3 oz of hops in a sanitized bag into the keg and let it sit in the fridge for 2 weeks. I also regularly dryhop in the keg at fridge temps. It works fine, there's no reason to move that keg out of the fridge unless you need the space.

some people believe there is a link btwn Al and Alzheimer's from alzheimers.org.uk: "A number of environmental factors have been put forward as possible contributory causes of Alzheimer's disease in some people. Among these is aluminium. There is circumstantial evidence linking this metal...

I see now. That should work fine. You can probably just drive the SSR right from your uC. I had some question about that when I started my current project, but I was reassured by a few people that it would work and it does. There's also no reason you couldn't drive it from the relay board...

Yes you can use that for fans. It's way overkill, but as long as your fans aren't drawing over 10 A you're set. Are you using a uC to control the relays? If so, you could just use a 2N2222 transistor switch for small PC size fans, or a MOSFET, either of which would be cheaper and have a...

Like jpalarchio said, make your list of requirements first, then find hardware that fulfills those requirements. Once you have decided on the display, sensors, input devices (buttons/rotary encoders/switches), and outputs (pumps/elements/valves) You can see how many I/O pins are going to be...

Yea, I appreciate now that what I wrote could be misleading, I was trying to clarify the issue of whether the switch with respect to the manufacturers rating sees the full load current or half the load current per leg, as some had suggested earlier. I apologize for confusing anyone. The take...

They look fine to me, on the product datasheet near the end you'll see the full-load rating in the table. As long as the resistive rating is higher than the current draw of your elements (it is) and the voltage is below the maximum (it is) then they're rated for what you want to do.

It's the rating per path through the switch, so yea, you could run two 15 A legs through his switch. But he's running two 26 A legs through it, which isn't a good thing. Yea, Kirchhoff's was over the top, but that's how I roll. I like it when I can help people understand why things are the...

No, if you consider the element the current is the current, it's a linear circuit element so the current is the same at any point in the element. Like I said it was a semantic argument. For the switch, there are two linear elements, one for each leg that each sees the same current as the...

Here's a good one for you application. And a pretty good price as well. If you want to go with a switch this one will work. But it's more than double the cost of adding a contactor. Another thing to consider is that by adding a contactor your switch, which is the part you touch, will only be...

I'm not an electrical engineer, just a lowly physicist/chemist, but there's a lot of bad advice being thrown around in this thread. I'm no safety nazi either, but you really need to change your design. Apply nodal analysis to the nearest junction before the switch-element loop. You will see...

I used the cheapest stuff they had at radioshock for my current in progress build and on my previous build. It works fine on my current rig running 26 A through a 40 A SSR. If you're closer to the load current rating for your SSR it might be worth the extra $ to get the good stuff, but at that...