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I am planning on brewing an IPA tomorrow. 5.5 gallon batch. I'm keeping the grain simple on this one - I think I tried to do too much with it in past IPA attempts. 12 lbs 2 row 1.25 lbs crystal 10 0.5 lbs Carapils I have the following hops: 1 lbs Zythos (10.9%), 2oz Simcoe (12.2%)...

I ended up ordering the CDN one. I'll report back on how it goes.

I need a new thermometer and was thinking about the thermapen but I saw talk about waiting to see a CDN rival to a thermapen. I'm assuming this is the rival...

Cool, thank you. So I'd be alright using RO water and adding the chloride? So if I'm mashing with 6.5 gallons of water I'd add a little over a tsp? And I read this primer after I got all my grain so I didn't get any of the sauermalz - is that going to be a problem? I've never used it...

I swear at the end of the podcast they were talking about how he dropped the yeast and added the first dry hop 3 days after. He talked about being worried about the attenuation doing that but it turned out fine.

I'm brewing a DIPA tomorrow and would like to work on the water for it. From what I gather, I need hard water that is high in hardness and low in alkalinity, especially to get the type of DIPA I'm going for (a KRBC Citra inspired beer). I hear the Phoenix water in general isn't too great to...

I definitely always use a bag for the kettle hops and dry hops. I will look at cutting down the days of dry hop. Thanks!

I'm shooting for 5.5 gallons but it does look like I am going over the 68-72 IBU Rager just with the 60 and 20 min according to the hop bitterness tool on Beersmith. That's the range for Citra right? I suppose I could tone it down a bit so it's a little closer to Citra, though I wouldn't mind...

I'm brewing a DIPA tomorrow and this is the grain I have (5.5 gal batch) 13.8# 2-row (81%) 14.4oz Munich (5.3%) 13oz Crystal 20 (4.7%) 12oz Cara-pils (4.5%) 6oz wheat malt (2.2%) 6oz honey malt (2.2%) This is based on the Can You Brew It? KRBC Citra recipe. I don't have that much...

Brewed this yesterday as a partigyle. The stout went pretty well, though I was looking a little low based on refractometer readings so I added a little extract at the end of the boil to bump it up. Came in a 1.113 which I'm happy with given the fact that I didn't do my normal sparging/process...

Think it will be okay sitting in the bucket vs carboy though? Or do I need yet another carboy?

I ordered it from Princeton Homebrew (described on the ECY facebook). No shipping during the summer unfortunately. Do Brett beers develop better in bulk though? Or will aging in the bottle allow it to continue to develop similarly?

I asked Al at ECY and he said as long as it is under 1.01 it should be fine to bottle. Do you think different? I will test it again before I bottle (and I know brett goes slow), but it sounds like it should be ok.

I brewed a saison 4 weeks ago today and used the East Coast Yeast Farm House saison blend (saison yeast/brett) to ferment. I checked the gravity last week and it was down to 1.006 so I know I am safe to bottle. Would it be fine to bottle now or will the brett work better if it bulk ages a bit...

What kind of pond pump are you using? I'm looking for a faster way to cool my wort as well.

I used this method today for a Winter Welcome clone and hit 75% efficiency - right on my 1.071 OG that Beer Smith estimated. Thanks for the info!

This recipe sounds great, but unfortunately I'm still doing extract with specialty grain. Would I be able to convert this one and do it that way?

I would have to increase the DME amount if I don't use the crystal, right?

Excellent info. Thanks. I'm going to the LHBS after work, so I'll just get a little more hops than called for. The recipe calls for whole hops - is there any reason I couldn't use pellet instead?

Okay, that is what I was doing in there. It was something like 5oz East Kent and 3oz Saaz based on the IBU and AA% given in the recipe. That seemed like quite a large jump to me.