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My guess is there is a leak in the regulator diaphragm.

The screws are about 23 inches above the refrigerator floor, making the connections a couple of inches below the top of the kegs. I used hot glue to bond the distributors to the inside refrigerator wall for some added support. The mounting works for me because there is enough room for four kegs...

I recently ran all EVAbarrier Co2 lines and finally have manifolds with check valves. Cost a bit, but the peace of mind bonus makes it a wash.

It's a fact that chlorine or chloramine in your brewing water will mute hop flavor and aroma. I would start there. In my experience, oxidation will darken pale-colored beers, which would be a sure sign it is muting your hops. The other thing to try is whirlpooling, aroma hopping in the boil, and...

After nearly thirteen months in development, ezRecipe Design version 4.04 is now available for download. Developed exclusively as an Add-in for 32-bit Microsoft Excel 2016 and higher, this latest release adds many new features and improvements over previous versions. Here is a preview of what...

rqrrbt I bought the EVABarrier Double Wall Draft Tubing - 5 mm ID x 8 mm OD tubing. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/length-of-beer-lines.672446/post-8725458

"The ezRecipe Design add-in is compatible with 32-bit versions of Excel 2016 or higher, installed on Windows 10 or 11, 32-bit or 64-bit."

I calculate the total strike and sparge water volumes needed to produce enough wort to fill a keg up to my target volume, then treat that total strike water volume to match a water profile. Of course, before knowing just how to treat the total strike water volume, you also must know which grains...

I use an RO filter, but I know that deionization filters, while suitable for aquariums, are not recommended for drinking or brewing beer.

The formula in column B will display the MLT volume needed in gallons. Enter your required grain weight, absorption rate, and strike water volume to calculate the MLT volume accurately. Column F will display the mash thickness based on the volumes entered. =(E4*1.03)+(C4*D4)

Initially, just set the heat loss temperature to 2 degrees. After dough-in, note the temperature of your mash. Next time adjust the heat loss temperature up or down as needed. As you mentioned, heat loss will vary somewhat with every brewing system and brewer.

The heat loss factor is the degrees of heat loss introduced by hoses and vessels that closely match your brewing setup.

=D4+0.192*(D4-C4)/B4+E4 =(((D4*9/5)+32+0.192*((D4*9/5+32)-(C4*9/5+32))/(B4/2.0863511218233)+(E4*9/5)+32)-32)*5/9 When entered into a spreadsheet, here is something that will help you, but you must also enter the grain temperature and mash thickness. Change the degrees of heat loss introduced...

Taking wort pH readings does get expensive quickly; that's no joke.

This may work for you when entered into a spreadsheet.

About ten years ago, I cut a half inch off the end of all my dip tubes. Not sure if I would do the same to any new kegs I may get, but I don't regret shortening them a bit.

A secondary regulator allows kegs connected to the primary to be force carbonated at higher pressure while simultaneously providing a lower pressure for transferring from fermenter to keg or bottling beer. The secondary regulator is a worthwhile investment considering the added flexibility and...

I guess it's more of a regional issue; as of last month, Praxair in Monmouth County, where I get my Co2, hasn't had a problem.

Based on my experience in New Jersey after talking to brewery owners and a local gas supplier, there is no Co2 shortage, and the cost to refill a 5-pound tank is still the same.

I carbonate and serve most of my beers at 12 psi, except wheat beers; I like to use 14 psi for those. Of course, your system must be balanced to carbonate and serve at the same pressure.