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Very excellent. This is exactly the type of info I was looking for when I started this thread, and the info is still relevant to my interests. Thanks for posting and for being brave enough to resurrect the thread. rant: I actually hate it when people discourage posting on very old...

Hmmm, good reasonings and insights so far, thanks! I know there many different types of delicious lagers out there... I was more thinking along the lines of "I want to brew a Celebrator clone...why would I use a lager yeast? Why not make it techinacally and ale and save myself time some...

You'll have to pardon my ignorance on this one, but I'm wondering why people brew lagers over ales. If its a clean taste profile that is desired, won't a clean-fermenting ale yeast do? Is the extra equipment (temp control) and time needed really worth it? Enlighten me! Signed...

I'm pretty sure this technique is just like FWH, but in reverse.

what was the FG? Did they ferment out all the way? What kind of yeast did you use? Sometimes very big beers with a lot of unfermentable sugars may taste sweet.

I consider a "big" beer to be anything that is 7%abv and up. When I brew these beers I let them sit in the fermentor a couple weeks so the yeast can clean up after a heavier fermentation. I also bottle condition longer than usual, to allow the flavors and alcohol heat to "mellow."

in!

It's to make the product LOOK more appealing on the shelf. They don't care about taste as much.

I spoke with a man who works in packaging, and he has worked in high positions for San Miguel brewing company in the Philippines. He states that clear and green beer bottles block UV light, because the glass is treated to do so. He insists this is true and there is nothing to worry about...

All I can think of off the top of my head is the nutrients contained in the yeast. Mainly B vitamins and trace elements. I'm not too sure what else, but I'm interested as well!

Being someone who is mathematically challenged, this is how I do it. Someone can tell me if I'm wrong. First, find out how much pure alcohol is in the bourbon. You added 375 ml, and bourbon is 40% abv let's say. So that means you added 150ml of straight alcohol (150ml is 40% of 375ml). Then...

I've done it once. I used the zest from 2 "medium" sized lemons, with the starsan sanitation technique. My OG was 1.051, and I dry hopped for 5 days. The lemon flavor was very subtle. If I didn't know it had lemon zest in it, I probably wouldn't be able to pick out the flavor, though I...

Hops are naturally antimicrobial, so infections with dry hopping are exceedingly rare. I'm not sure about lemon rinds though. What I do is use starsan on the outside of the lemon and the grater, then shave off the rind. You can also soak the rind in a small amount of vodka and then dump the...

I always thought the comments were for just for listing any special ingredient or brewing methods.

Looks like it was a plastic keg, and it wasn't one of theirs. I've never heard of something like this happening before.

If you've had healthy fermentation and good sanitation in the past, I think you'll be fine with 1 pack. However if you are at all doubtful or want to be extra sure...a few extra bucks for 2 packs would set you right for sure.

Best to make a starter to get the yeast population up. That is always the case with liquid yeast, no batter what the OG is. Anecdotally, I have brewed a beer that was OG 1.076 with 1 pack and it fermented fine with no bad effects.

If I use Tap water, I fill up my pots the day before and let them sit overnight. It allows a large part of the chlorine to evaporate. Also, I hear kolsch was traditionally made with soft water. Try using 2 gallons or so of pure distilled water to mix with your tap water. It might help!

I believe if you dry hop for too long, you will start to get overly grassy flavors. For that reason I wouldn't recommend. However, since you've done it, age them a while and try it out! Let us know how it turns out. :)

need moar hops!