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Yep. It helps to clear your beer and is done when fermentation is done. I also do it because I keg, and CO2 is more readily absorbed in colder liquids. Beer is cold. CO2 is cold. I drink sooner.

I know this thread is way past it's prime, but I wanted to pass along that gallons of milk are done by weight and the +- is about 24 grams. So they are pretty accurate. Just an FYI.

Just type keezer into the search bar and wade through the 100's of different posts until you find something you can relate to.

FWIW, I have been using the silicone tubing for well over 20 brews and have not replaced any of the lines. The SS hose barbs make a pretty tight fit and you don't have to torque the hose clamps all that much.

Ditto that day trippr. Isn't the usual method having the HLT the topmost, draining to MLT, then to BK? Unless you are going to gravity drain the MLT into a third vessel and hand pour it into the BK, which is what I do. My pump compacts the grain bed too much.

I went with hose barbs and used 1/2" silicone tubing (good from -100 to 500F). When I'm done I just pull all the lines and put them in a bucket filled with PBW, let em soak for a couple minutes, rinse, drop in a bucket of StarSan then put them away for the next time.

I prefer the stubby bottles, but I do use 22's and just about anything I've already de-labled. When I don't keg, that is. Kegging is the only way to go.

Sorry, dude. It's never good to find out you are not a god. I had that let down years ago.

Ditto this. I get into comfortable ruts pretty easy and it helps to look at what others are doing. I just got a clone for Racer 5 and I'm going to either brew it, or bastardize it a little, just to break away from what I've been doing.

Truck key, house key, key to my parent's house, and an AC/DC bottle opener that I got with the box set. Never be with an opener. Ever.

How To Brew covers some of the manifold designs. http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixD.html

In reading your initial post, you said you wanted to make your beer that much better. Based on that, I would say make the jump to all-grain, if your budget allows. I bought a pre-converted mash tun from homebrewstuff.com, I only chose them because they were a local company, not because of...

These look great, but I have one question, are they measured out for the stubby bottles or the taller, skinnier bottles? I have kept both styles of bottles and prefer the stubby ones.

See if this is any better. Might be worth returning the STC and getting this instead. http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=334

As I stare at the picture a little longer... 1 & 2 are the black and white 120v AC wires coming into the unit. 10 & 9 look like the leads from your thermocouple. 7 & 8 should be DC outputs to control the on/off function of the SSR. 3 & 4 are the alarm wires (if used, I didn't). And I am...

I wired up my Auber syl-2342 and you might be able to cross-reference their instructions to the ones listed on the mypin website. Crappy instructions for us wiring idiots. Auber's are a little clearer and the premise is the same. Not sure if that helps, hopefully a wiring guru comes along.

Was looking at a "Trappist" Dubbel, but I've never had one. Aside from what BJCP says about them, do you have any input on what they taste like?

That implies they can also be really bad. I'll have to look into it. That's one idea, need more.

I find it really disappointing to start reading a thread that has some good information in it and then it takes a hard right turn into a pissing match between two people that can't disagree in a mature fashion. Other than that, if I don't like a thread, for any reason, then I don't read it. I...

Yep, use your hydrometer to tell you when the ferment is done. Personally, I wait until the krausen has settled and there is nothing on top of the beer, just a clear lake of brown goodness, then take a reading. It is usually done at that point. About 7-10 days, but I let it sit in the carboy...