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Dave, would you mind posting what kind of fridge you used? It looks like you have room for two 5gal kegs in there, am I right?

Is there supposed to be a picture of the logo in your post?

http://www.asciimation.co.nz/bender/index.html

Why don't you just make something similar to a ladle? Example: cut an 8" piece of 1/2" diameter copper pipe and attach a cap to one end. Then attach a lengthy thin rod to the side of it so you can drop it down into the wort to fill the cylinder. If you used larger diameter pipe you could even...

That sounds great. I was just doing some testing earlier with the PID in auto-mode. I was able to get the settings to a point where it held a boil better without it sloshing so much. What you described seems like it could work even better. I will give it a try next time I test. On a side...

You're right, the difference was not linear. I just took an average over several readings differences and that's why I set my PID to +6*F. My PID temperature reading from the RTD is pretty accurate now over the full range from ambient temperature to boiling temperature.

I too am interesting in the posted questions. As far as the second question goes, I had to set my PID to recognize the temperature read from the RTD as 6*F warmer than actual temperature. In other words, the RTD was reading low according to my other thermometers.

Yes it does. It is an Auber SYL PID.

Thanks for the speedy reply. I ended up doing the whole boil with my PID on auto mode with it set at 210* and I'm just hoping everything turned out all right. Set at 210* it boiled the water about for about 20 seconds and then it was off about 20-30 seconds before it came on a again. The...

I'm currently brewing my first batch in my newly built e-kettle. I have a single heating element set up along the diameter of my kettle. I'm boiling 3 gallons of wort in a 6 gallon kettle. The boiling action is generating A LOT of side-to-side sloshing action. I have turned down my temperature...

Ah, that looks like a very good solution. Maybe I'll use some conductive compound between the washer and the element nut to ensure conductivity but that looks perfect.

A picture would be great, thanks.

Thanks for the idea but I don't have access to a MIG welder or any welder within hours from where I live for that matter and I'm not about to pay someone. I think I may drill a whole the size of 10awg wire in one of the hex nut sides and use solder/epoxy to hold a bare copper wire lead that I...

Well, I was trying to avoid drilling another hole in my kettle but that does seem like the best idea aside from drilling and tapping a hole for a ground screw in my element. Grounding to the kettle would be much cheaper for me.

Would the element/brew pot be sufficiently grounded if I epoxied my ground wire to the spot show in the picture below? I think it would be but I'd like additional opinions. Thanks.

I've only used SmartDraw and AutoCad but I found both to fall short in simplicity. I think pen, paper, and a scanner would be the easiest method to visually represent your wiring.

It's fed by a 240v dryer outlet.

I'd like a double check on the line in wiring for my GFCI. Let me know if you see any funny business. Thanks.

I'm not sure how an alcoholic root beer would taste but a 50/50 mix of Knob Creek and A&W root beer with some ice is absolutely delicious.

What is the height measurement of a 40a SSR + heat-sink? On a side note, I read that you are a pilot, do you fly for Continental?